(Photo by Austin Howton/Stripes Korea)
The anticipation for the Grand Deities Procession, or Gu Miao You Shen, built long before the parade itself. People filled the streets of Johor Bahru.
People stood on every crevice of available concrete and asphalt, positioning their cameras and their children. On the street, vendors hawked food and goods.
The air was muggy. A sunburn slowly spread across my neck. Sweat dribbled down my forehead, into my eyebrows.
Aunties talked to each other in excited tones, looking for a viewing lane to glimpse the door of the Old Chinese Temple, where the procession would start.
The drums began to beat.
At first, the sound was faint. Quickly though, the inundating beat flooded my eardrums.
Heads turned. Children climbed onto their parents’ shoulders to get a view. Smartphones rose above the crowd.
I traveled to Johor Bahru from Singapore that morning crossing the Johor–Singapore Causeway into Malaysia. I had a quick brunch of Malaysian-style Mee Siam with a cup of Kopi at Hock Kee then ventured into Johor Bahru’s City Centre shopping district.
Malaysian-style Mee Siam with a cup of Kopi at Hock Kee (Photo by Austin Howton/Stripes Korea)
JB, as the city is locally referred to, is a bustling gateway city of nearly two million people. During the Chingay festival, the normally car-crammed City Centre roads were only open to foot traffic — and there were a lot of feet.
Chingay ushers in the Lunar New Year and is rooted in the traditions of the historic Johor Bahru Old Chinese Temple. The temple honors the five deities worshipped by the city’s five major Chinese dialect communities. These revered figures include Yuan Tian Shang Di representing the Teochew, Hong Xian Da Di representing the Hokkien, Gan Tian Da Di representing the Hakka, Hua Guang Da Di representing the Cantonese, and Zhao Da Yuan Shuai representing the Hainanese.
During the Grand Deities Procession of Chingay, the five deities travel the streets of Johor Bahru and bestow blessings and protection to the residents for the year ahead. What began as a religious observance evolved into a massive cultural event that attracts visitors from across Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, and the globe.
Rapid drumbeats reverberated through the buildings in City Centre. Cymbals clanged. Firecrackers erupted.
“Hang ah! Ong ah! Huat ah!” The crowd chanted the phrases from Singaporean Hokkein in unison, forming a joyful prayer for abundant blessings and massive success.
The first deity palanquin emerged though the temple door adorned with elaborate decorations. The carriers vigorously rocked the palanquin back and forth.
“Hang ah! Ong ah! Huat ah!” The crowd chanted louder.
The synchronous rock of the palanquin symbolized the waking of the deity to rise, ward off malevolent forces and bless the city with prosperity.
Incense drifted through the air. There was a sense of reverence and excitement.
“Hang ah! Ong ah! Huat ah!”
The procession moved slowly, but the atmosphere was always lively.
Lion dancers bounded through the streets with astonishing agility. Dragons, hoisted by kids, twisted and surged through the crowd like living creatures with captivating, fast and precise movements. Every leap and turn was met with cheers and chants from spectators packed along the route.
“Hang ah! Ong ah! Huat ah!”
The crowd became part of the performance with each chant.
The elderly watched traditions they had known since they were children. Young families introduced their kids to customs passed down through generations. Visitors stood beside locals.
Each deity followed with new colors. The crowds stayed motivated as the hours passed.
“Hang ah. Ong ah. Huat ah.”
Eventually, the drums faded.
The deities shaking in the palanquins disappeared into the distance. Performers moved on. Spectators slowly dispersed. Volunteers cleaned firecrackers from the street.
What makes Chingay in Johor Bahru unforgettable is not its size, with around 500,000 spectators, its performances or even its rich traditions. Rather, it is the excitement and energy of the event. The feeling of standing among people moving to the same ancient rhythm is something special.
For visitors from Singapore, the festival is remarkably accessible. Johor Bahru, the second largest city in Malaysia, sits just across the border, reachable by bus, train, taxi or private vehicle. Crossing the Causeway during Chingay can require patience, particularly when crowds return home after the celebrations; however, the journey is short compared to the amazing cultural experience that awaits.
I remember the sight of kids sprinting between moving floats to get pictures with a dancing lion. An old woman in deep prayer while the crowd engulfed her. The smell of used firecrackers. The enduring spirit of Chingay in Johor Bahru.
(Photo by Austin Howton/Stripes Korea)
Speakin’ Malay
Thank you:
Terima kasih (te-ree-mah ka-seh)
Yes
Ya (yah)
No
Tidak (tee-dak)
Goodbye
Selamat jalan (s’la-mat zha-lan)
You’re welcome
Sama-sama (saa-ma saa-ma)
I don’t understand
Saya Tak Faham (saa-yah tak faa-haam)
Where is the bathroom?
Di mana tandas (dee ma-na tan-das)
About the Author
Austin Howton is a U.S. Air Force Contracting Officer and licensed attorney that has been stationed at Kadena since November of 2023. He enjoys reading traveling, and exploring the intersections of law, government and global affairs.