As I mentioned last week, a major highlight of visiting Seoul was going on a tour of the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) between North and South Korea. I signed up for a last-minute bus tour, and I was lucky to get a seat because the South Korean and North Korean governments have restrictions on how many tourists can visit the DMZ each day.
First, everyone on the tour was to meet on a random street corner at 6 A.M. Being the middle of December, it was absolutely freezing out. A random group started to form. There were a few other Americans and several Europeans. Eventually, a tour bus rolled up and our tour guide, a very young Korean woman, took roll call. The ride to our first stop was about two hours away from the city.
When we arrived at the first destination, it was a giant visitor center in the middle of nowhere at the edge of the DMZ. At this spot, there was a gondola that would take you across a minefield and river to an old watch tower. There are estimated to be between 1 million and 2 million unexploded mines in the DMZ to this day. When the ceasefire was agreed upon, it is believed that both North and South Korea planted about 1 million mines each within the DMZ to prevent further military action. Because there has been no human action in the DMZ, it is a natural preserve full of rare species and with rich biodiversity. The gondola provided a sneak peek into this.
After this stop, we rode further into the countryside, through several military checkpoints, where we finally pulled into a parking lot of a giant observation deck and museum. Before we got off the bus, we were given very clear guidelines: do not take any pictures of North Korea. In almost perfect timing, I looked out the window to see South Korean military men of some nature walking a white woman off, her camera in their hands.
My tour guide, Kelly, shared some information about tensions between North and South Korea. She was in her mid-20s, and she said that when she was younger, travel between the two countries was possible. She went to North Korea once on a Girl Scouts exchange trip as a young girl. It was interesting to hear her point of view on the relations between the two countries and how much things have changed in her lifetime. At this stop, you could also walk several meters deep into a tunnel that was discovered in the late 1970s, which North Korea had been digging under the DMZ. Four tunnels of this nature have been found, and there are thought to be dozens more. A lot of the exhibits and signage pointed out the fact that the Korean War never officially ended and is still considered an active ceasefire. No formal treaty was ever signed to end the war.
Above the tunnels, there is a giant observation tower with panoramic (bulletproof) windows that look over North Korea. In the distance, you can see what looks like a beautiful city a few dozen miles away. Kelly, the tour guide, shared that this was a fake city believed to be built completely for propaganda. From time to time, it is said you can see North Korean soldiers walking around the streets, but never any civilians.
Overall, the DMZ was both shocking and interesting. It was fascinating to see how the Korean War is still impacting both countries today, and it was cool to get a glimpse at North Korea, a place that very few people get to see.