If you drive the length of I-5 from the Canadian border in Blaine to the middle of the Columbia River when you officially enter Oregon, you’d be driving about 275 miles.
Given that distance, you’d expect traveling about 5,000 miles away from Seattle would land you somewhere that felt entirely foreign. Turns out, 5,000 miles away from Seattle can take you to a little slice of home: the Polish coastline on the Baltic Sea in the city of Gdynia.
Maybe you haven’t heard of this location before. It’s not as well-known as Paris, London, or Amsterdam. But Gdynia is one of Seattle’s 21 sister cities that span the globe. There’s also Reykjavik and Galway on the list of European sister cities, but Gdynia marks one of the newest sister cities, joining together in 1993. Gdynia itself is a young city, celebrating its 100th anniversary this year.
We took a personal pilgrimage to visit our Polish sister city, and left hoping that more Seattleites will take the journey across the Atlantic to see for themselves how Gdynia can feel so similar to home, in the best ways. And, if you’re wondering, the correct pronunciation is guh-din-yah.
A coastal connection
Gdynia, like Seattle, is rooted in its port. The ocean is never far, and while my visit included near-freezing temperatures, the endless shoreline of Gdynia was still on my agenda, as well as hundreds of others. There’s something special about a sunny beach walk with a chill that both Seattle and Gdynia residents enjoy. There’s no better way to cure jetlag than spending a day on the beach.
Further offshore, hop a ferry to the peninsula of Hel, which isn’t at all like the name suggests. Instead, it offers a great location for hiking, beach days, surfing, and camping. Sound familiar?
And if your love of maritime activities runs deep, you can even set sail on the ferry to Karlskrona, Sweden where more adventure awaits.
A different type of underground tour
On first glance, the massive apartment building on 3 Maja Street in the core of downtown Gdynia looks unassuming. But its cultural importance made it one of my favorite locations in the city. The Bankowiec welcomed its first residents in 1936, and it was the first modern Polish apartment building that included high-end touches like refrigerators, an elevator, a parking area under the building, and a separate stairwell for staff.
One resident, Maria Piradoff-Link, began collecting items residents were getting rid of, understanding this building and its contents were special. Today, Piradoff-Link is the curator of the Mini Museum located in the underground shelter of the Bankowiec building. It’s a time capsule into what life was like for the affluent residents, displaying everyday items you’d find in one of the tenements.
A Modernist city
In the 1920s and 1930s, Gdynia saw major growth, largely thanks to the developing port. The city embodies a Modernist design that’s been submitted as a contender for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage list. You can find evidence of Modernist architecture all over the city, which focused on incorporating light and air to the design. The Essence of Modernism route takes you on a walking tour of the city’s most prominent examples and a great introduction to the city.
In the midst of the modernist city, you’ll still find glimpses of the past. One of my favorite examples of this is the modern-day Oberża 86 restaurant. Built in the early 20th century, the brick building was the former residence of Antoni Abraham, a prominent figure in Gdynia’s history. If you’re hoping to enjoy Polish cuisine while knowing you’re sitting at an important residence, this is a tasty choice.
A pivotal connection to a new life
Gdynia’s strategic location on the Baltic Sea made it a departure point for thousands of emigrants bound for new homes, starting in the 1930s. One of the major destinations from Gdynia’s port was Ellis Island. During my visit to the city, I toured the Muzeum Emigracji W Gdyni with Dr. Lukasz Podlaszewski, the Chief Permanent Exhibition Officer. If you’re one who enjoys a museum, this one is a must-visit.
Inside, the museum follows a fictitious Polish family on their 10-year journey of leaving Poland for Ellis Island, continuing on to Chicago, and setting up a new life. While the family is fictional, it’s based on the incredible collection of letters, notes, passenger manifests, and public records the museum has archived. Even more meaningful, the museum is housed in the former port building. The grand staircase into the museum is the same staircase thousands climbed before departing for a new life.
Nature is always nearby
Much like the Seattle area, Gdynia has major bragging rights of combining the perfect mix of city life next to serene nature. Of course, the entire Seaside Boulevard counts as a nature escape, but there are also forest adventures that could warrant packing along your hiking boots. The Forest Botanical Garden Marszewo is awesome for anyone looking for an afternoon in nature and is especially great for families. Or walk the Seaside Boulevard to Kpa Redowska Reserve.
If you’re feeling ambitious during your visit, you can walk from Gdynia to Gdansk, season permitting. Hugging the coastline, the majority of the walk follows a well-maintained pedestrian path with a separate lane for cyclists.
Visiting the Tri-Cities along the Baltic Sea
Eastern Washington’s Tri-Cities join Kennewick, Pasco, and Richland and coincidentally, Gdynia is also part of a tri-cities area, known locally as Trójmiasto. The Polish Tri-Cities comprise Gdynia, Sopot, and Gdansk. As is the case in Washington, if you’re visiting one Polish Tri-City, you might as well visit all three. They’re connected by an easy and efficient train system, and the trip from Gdansk to Spoot takes only about 15 minutes, and another 15 minutes to go further north to Gdynia.
One of the oldest cities in Poland, modern-day Gdansk brings about European charm with cobblestone streets, small eateries, and stunning churches. You must visit St. Mary’s Church, and if you’re feeling ambitious, climb the 400-something stairs to the top of the tower for a sweeping view of the city. It’s also well worth a visit to the Museum of the Second World War.
I didn’t expect to fall in love with a beach resort town with snow on the ground in March, but Sopot managed to wow me, even with winter’s chill. It’s worth spending a night or two in Poland’s spa-centric town for some real rest and relaxation. Don’t miss the Sopot Pier, which is the longest wooden pier in Europe, measuring 1,678 feet long.
How to get to Gdynia from Seattle
Gdynia’s nearest international airport is Gdask Lech Wasa Airport. You’ll have to hop on (at least) two flights from Seattle to arrive. The good news here is this affords choosing a long layover and spending time in another European country while en route to Poland, like the Netherlands, Germany, Denmark, or Finland, to name a few common layover options. Keep in mind that landing at Gdansk Lech Waa Airport gives you the opportunity to begin your tour in Gdansk before moving up the coastline to Sopot and Gdynia. If you’re arriving via the Gdynia train station, be sure to pop into the McDonald’s located in the station. While the menu might not be particularly interesting, the incredible artwork inside since long before McDonald’s moved in puts this in the running for the most beautiful fast-food restaurant in the world.
For more information about Gdynia and the 100th anniversary, check out the official website. For more information about the Seattle sister city connection, check out the Seattle-Gdynia Sister City Association (SGSCA).
Lauren Allain is a freelance contributor to Seattle Refined. Thanks to the city of Gdynia and Joanna Leman for the city tour. While the tour and its stops were provided without charge, the opinions within are those of the author.