Crooked House in Sopot.
Part 4
More Random Observations About My Trip to Poland
I’ll conclude my series with a few more general comments about my most recent trip to Poland.
Still standing
The Palace of Culture and Science in Warsaw is a distinctive 778-ft. structure and the second tallest building in Poland, but many Poles don’t like it. Built in the early 1950s, it was inspired by Polish historical architecture and American art deco. It houses various public and cultural institutions, including theatres, museums, and universities, as well as an observation deck with a great view of Warsaw. It has a concert hall that has hosted many notable performances, including when the Rolling Stones became the first major western rock group to hold a concert behind the Iron Curtain in 1967.
The problem is that the building was a gift from the Soviet Union to Poland, and was originally known as the Joseph Stalin Palace of Culture and Science. Today it’s still widely viewed as a symbol of Soviet domination over the Polish People’s Republic, and Poles have some unflattering, often vulgar, nicknames for it. Many Poles would like to see it demolished. I can understand that sentiment but I think that it’s an impressive building, and hope that it’ll remain a part of Warsaw’s skyline.
Rebuilt this city
Moving across Warsaw, seeing the massive skyscrapers like the Varso Tower, or the charming medieval Old Town, I often thought of the words of one of our guides, who reminded us of an incredible fact: almost of all the structures we were looking at were less than 80 years old.
The story of Old Town is amazing. During the Warsaw Uprising in August 1944, more than 85 percent of Warsaw, including the historic Old Town, was destroyed on Hitler’s orders. After the war, a five-year reconstruction campaign was undertaken by its citizens that resulted in its meticulous restoration. That was incredible, but there’s a lot about the rest of Warsaw that’s impressive as well. Today, the once-devastated central city has so many large, modern buildings that it resembles Manhattan. Clearly, Warsaw has come a long way in not a long time.
Don’t call it Eastern Europe
Poles won’t like it if you refer to their country as being in Eastern Europe. In the first place, Poland certainly is located in the central part of Europe. Secondly, the term “Eastern Europe” became synonymous with countries under the Soviet Union’s sphere of influence. Poland is not under Russian control any more, and is closer to the West in terms of religion and culture.
The way we were
If you think that your trip to Poland will look like a visit to Amish country, you’re in for a big surprise.
Most of Poland is probably nothing like the land your forefathers left behind. However, there are outdoor museums that offer an authentic look into the traditional lives of Poles more than a hundred years ago. We went to the Łowicz Museum, which presents the folk culture of the inhabitants of the region. We saw numerous 19th-century buildings, including timber cottages with straw thatched roofs, historic windmills, and a wooden church. Our group also enjoyed regional dancers, an authentic meal, and folk crafts.
There was a crooked tree
We saw some great attractions on our trip, like the massive Malbork Castle, but there was a small side trip that I found interesting. The Crooked Forest, or Krzywy Las, is a grove of strange-looking Scots pine trees located in the village of Nowe Czarnowo. We stopped there on the way from Szczecin to Poznan. The trees bend out at 90 degrees and form an odd J-shape just above the ground pointing to the north. They then curve back upright after going sideways for a couple of feet. The curved pines are surrounded by a forest of straight pine trees.
People love mysteries, and there has been conjecture that the curves were caused by snow storms or some mysterious force. However, it’s generally agreed that the trees were purposely deformed to create naturally curved timber for use in furniture or boat building. Since the people who lived there in the 1930s left during the war, we can’t know for sure.We also saw Poland’s famed Crooked House, or Krzywy Domek, in the resort town of Sopot. However, we know that this unusually shaped building was constructed in 2004 to resemble a whimsical, fairy-tale house.
What Is Tricity?
I heard references to Poland’s Tricity, or Trójmiasto, but I didn’t know what it was until I got there. Trójmiasto is actually the name of the metropolitan area on the Baltic coast that comprises three main cities: Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia. Each city has its own mayor, and they have their own assets. Gdańsk has a unique history and architecture, Gdynia is a modern seaport, and Sopot is a beach resort with a vibrant nightlife. Combined, it’s home to over one million people.
Leaning Tower of Toruń
Yes, Poland has a leaning tower, or Krzywa Wieża, in Toruń. The top of the tower is off almost five feet from where it would be if the tower were perfectly vertical. It’s not as dramatic as the one in Pisa, but the lean is apparent.
The red brick tower was part of fortifications built by the Teutonic Knights in the 13th century in order to defend the town. However, it started leaning because since it was near the Vistula River, the soil beneath it became soft and loamy. However, according to one legend the reason for its crookedness was to punish a Teutonic Knight for his sinful ways.
Pay toaleta
It’s good to have some Polish change on hand in case you need to use a public restroom – they’re referred to as toaleta or WC (water closet). You’ll just need a few złoty to use one. However, free toilets are widely available at restaurants, shopping malls and gas stations.
And in conclusion…..
I found Poland to be a great place to visit especially if, like me, it allows you to develop a deeper connection with your ancestors. It’s not the Poland of my great-grandparents, but if you see how that country has emerged from some very difficult times it will instill within you an even greater sense of pride in your heritage.
But you don’t have to be Polish American to enjoy the country. As so many people are discovering these days, Poland is one of the world’s most underrated travel destinations. It has great attractions, history, architecture, and culture; its food is amazing; the prices are reasonable; the streets are clean; and, there’s not a safer place to visit in Europe. I also found the people to be friendly and good-humored, and more fluent in English than many Americans.
My trip, organized by Andy Gołębiowski and Wanda Grzesik of Chopin Tours, was an amazing experience and I can’t wait to return. If you were thinking about going to Poland, don’t think about it anymore – do it! If it’s on your bucket list, do it before things like health, family obligations or anything else get in the way. It’ll be an experience of a lifetime.