Many refer to Madrileños as gatos (cats) for their tendency to enjoy late nights, and so, unsurprisingly, Madrid is a city with an exceptional nightlife offering. Trawling the traditional bars around the oldest parts of the city is the quickest and undoubtedly most enjoyable way to get into the swing of life here. Many have been open for a century or longer and are as popular as ever. Look out for places with wooden frontages painted maroon or brown, tiled walls and a cluster of chattering madrileños on the pavement outside. But there are plenty of sleek cocktail bars and smart places to try new wines too.
I’ve chosen some of my favourites of the city’s very best bars, from the ultra-traditional to the quirky and cool.
Find a bar by area:Best for cocktailsMuseo Chicote
Madrid’s most famous cocktail bar opened in the 1930s and still has much of its original décor. Expect mirrored alcoves down one side, a long bar down the other and leather club chairs. Ernest Hemingway was a regular, as were Ava Gardner, Gregory Peck, Frank Sinatra, Sophia Loren and Luis Buñuel – who was very particular about his dry martini.
Now the space is a fashionable place for food as well as after-dinner drinks, with DJs playing R&B music, but the glamour – and the classic cocktail list – lives on. You might well spot a famous face.
Website: museochicote.com
Price: ££
Follow the lead of Spanish filmmaker Luis Buñuel and order a dry martini at Museo Chicote
Lovo Bar
There’s a decadent feel at this cocktail bar, where the décor and the vibe are inspired by Josephine Baker, the French dancer, singer, spy and activist. Let the barmen guide you through the creative drinks list, which include quite a few surprising concoctions, such as the Festín Oriental, with tequila, sake, tomato water cordial and a marinated quail’s egg. Sit upstairs in La Caza to savour a cocktail or two, then head downstairs to La Cueva, where there is a dance floor. Open from 5pm until at least 5am, this is a handy place to slot into a night out.
Website: lovobar.com
Price: ££
Salmon Guru
Renowned Argentinian mixologist Diego Cabrera is the mastermind behind this buzzy cocktail bar near Plaza de Santa Ana. The design scheme ranges from that of a classic New York bar to a pop-art theme and a distinctly Japanese style across a series of spaces. Choose from classic cocktails, such as an old fashioned, or go for something more experimental – the expert bartenders are always happy to give you a suggestion or to whip up your favourite combination.
Website: salmonguru.es
Price: ££
The funky cocktail bar Salmon Guru can do everything from classic drinks to the more experimental
1862 Dry Bar
This a place for serious classic cocktails – at a surprisingly reasonable price – rather than fluorescent concoctions adorned with umbrellas and fruit. It is run by top barman Alberto Martínez, and housed in a mid-19th century palatial building on a street lined with bars and restaurants at the lower end of Malasaña. This is a good spot for a decadent afternoon or after-dinner drinks – it gets packed after midnight. Try to grab a seat by the big windows so you can observe the always entertaining scene outside, and order a Moscow mule, a gimlet or a Manhattan.
Contact: 00 34 609 531 151; facebook.com/1862DryBar; instagram.com/1862drybar
Price: £
The bartenders at 1862 Dry Bar know how to make a proper classy cocktail
Best traditional barsBodega de la Ardosa
Between oh-so-cool Malasaña and the boutiques along Calle Fuencarral, this is a much-loved institution in the city. With its red paintwork and smoked glass sign, this is pure traditional Madrilenian style. You either sit on stools around barrels or dive under the bar to one of the tables at the back. Rows of dusty bottles are stacked onto shelves and old photos decorate the walls. I can never resist the tortilla, which is made to the recipe of the owner’s mother with gently fried pieces of potato and slices of onion. If it’s really heaving, Casa Baranda next door is run by the same people and may have a bit of space.
Website: laardosa.es
Price: £
The red paintwork and smoked glass sign outside Bodega de la Ardosa recalls days gone by
Café Belén
This has been a favourite haunt of locals in the Chueca and Salesas neighbourhoods for more than four decades. Café Belén is run by the renowned artist Daniel Garbade, whose work, as well as that of other artists, is exhibited on the striking blue walls. It’s comfortable, quietly fashionable, gay-friendly, and popular with writers and creative types. Pop in for a cup of superb coffee or organic tea with a slab of cake, or gather with friends for a glass of champagne or a cocktail. There are regular cultural events, such as book launches, too.
Website: elcafebelen.com
Price: £
Cervecería Alemana
With waiters in white jackets and photographs of bullfights on the walls, this well-loved bar has changed little since it was founded in 1904. Regulars at its marble tables over the years have included the bullfighters Manolete and Luis Miguel Dominguín, as well as writers such as Valle-Inclán and Hemingway. It is a popular place to meet in the area, and at weekends people jostle for space around the bar, which is piled high with platters of fried fish. Order a caña (a small beer) to start with.
Website: cerveceriaalemana.com
Price: £
A caña from the beer taps at Cervecería Alemana is a well-suited accompaniment to one of its plates of fried fish
Taberna de Ángel Sierra
Kick off the evening in this tavern on Plaza de Chueca. Taberna de Ángel Sierra has been in business for a century and has featured in Pedro Almodóvar’s films The Flower of My Secret and Parallel Mothers. The tiled interior has the typical tin counter, where some poor soul is perpetually engaged in the Sisyphean task of swilling out glasses under a constantly running tap. The draught beer is excellent, so order a caña (a small glass) or a vermut con sel (red vermouth with a splash of soda). There are tables in the wood-panelled back room.
Website: tabernadeangelsierra.es
Price: £
Prop yourself up at the bar at Taberna de Ángel Sierra and order a red vermouth with a splash of soda – Todos los derechos reservados./Carlos.JG.Pastrana_totalcombusti
La Venencia
This narrow bar with nicotine-stained walls opened in the 1920s and is as stripped back as it gets, with just a wooden counter, some barrels of sherry, and a few faded posters and tables. It only serves sherry and basic tapas – start with a fino. Hemingway was a regular and these days you still never know who you might spot skulking at the back. But don’t even think about sneaking a sly pic as photos are banned and this really isn’t a place for 21st-century technology anyway. No spitting or tipping either, by the way. It’s best before lunch or dinner.
Website: esmadrid.com/en/restaurants/venencia
Price: £
Best wine barsLa Fisna
A traditional bodega, with a wooden frontage, iron columns, open-brick walls and a metal counter in the Lavapiés neighbourhood, was given a new lease of life after being taken over by wine lovers. As well as the bar and a handful of high tables with stools, there is a shop at the back with an excellent stock of interesting, reasonably priced wines. A changing selection of at least 50 wines from all around Spain and beyond is available by the glass, along with good cheese and charcuterie and more elaborate tapas. The bar closes on Saturdays and Sundays, so go on Friday evening if you are only in Madrid for the weekend.
Website: lafisna.com
Price: £
Calling all oenophiles, get set to take your pick from the wine bottles lining the walls at La Fisna
De Vinos
In a former neighbourhood grocer’s in the Conde Duque area, De Vinos still has the original marble counter, tiled floor and wooden fittings. Boards on the walls show the impressive range of vermouths and wines available by the glass, with many from small producers in lesser-known Spanish regions. Just draw up a stool at the bar and work your way through the list or grab a table in the room at the back, where tasting sessions and other events are held.
Contact: 00 34 91 182 3499; facebook.com; instagram.com
Price: £
Bodegas Ricla
With wrought-iron pillars, earthenware wine vats and a brass bar, family-run Ricla, which opened in 1867, packs a lot of character into a tiny space behind the Plaza Mayor – there’s nowhere to sit and it’s often a bit of scrum but that’s all part of the fun. There is vermouth on tap and good wines by the glass. Order the cod with peppers in olive oil, Cabrales cheese in cider and cecina (salt-cured, air-dried beef).
Website: esmadrid.com/en/restaurants/bodegas-ricla
Price: £
Berria Wine Bar
In stark contrast to Madrid’s tiny traditional taverns, this is a huge space for trying wines not just from Spain but all around the world. A prestigious location on the Plaza de la Independencia by the Retiro park means the terrace tables here are particularly coveted. Once installed, my order might be a glass of Champagne, a superb sherry or a velvety Ribera del Duero. The food is good too, whether you fancy a tapa or more of a meal. I especially recommend the sandwich packed with sobrasada sausage, comté cheese and orange blossom honey.
Website: berriawinebar.com
Price: ££
Best rooftopsAzotea del Círculo
Zoom up to the vast roof terrace of the Círculo de Bellas Artes cultural centre near Plaza de Cibeles for jaw-dropping 360-degree views across the city – it’s particularly spectacular at sunset. With lots of low-slung seating for lounging on and a huge range of beer, wines, champagne, mixed drinks and cocktails, this is a great place to get in the swing of Madrid if you arrive on a warm night. I find a Paloma, a Cosmopolitan or a glass of pink cava tend to suit the mood. You can also have tapas or dinner up here in the restaurant.
Website: azoteadelcirculo.com
Price: ££
Watch the sun set over Madrid from Azotea del Círculo with a Raspberry Collins in hand
Broken Shaker
There’s a groovy babe vibe up on the roof at the Generator Hostel just off the Gran Vía. More laidback and less posey than some Madrid roof terraces, it’s popular with a younger crowd. I like to kick off here with a cold beer but move on to the cocktails, perhaps a yuzu margarita. As well as a menu of tasty snacks, sometimes they fire the BBQ up too. As well as DJs, you might catch a live band or even get on stage yourself at one of the open mic nights. Or just relax on a sunlounger and have a dip in the hot tubs.
Website: brokenshaker.com/location/madrid
Price: £
Best for dancingDiscoteca El Son
Even people who claim not to be into clubbing cannot resist the lure of the dance floor at El Son; it’s one of the most popular places for salsa, Latin and Caribbean music in Madrid. With live performances as well as DJs, this is a great place to end up with a group of friends. The club is on two levels, with an area where you can have a rest with a mojito. Things start warming up after 1am and it really gets going around 3am.
Contact​: facebook.com/discotecaelson
Prices:​ ​£
Teatro Eslava
The legendary club Joy Eslava just off the Puerta del Sol has been revamped and relaunched as Teatro Eslava. Originally a theatre dating back more than 150 years, it has been a landmark of Madrid nightlife for decades. In its latest incarnation, you can expect live music and all sorts of performances as well as DJ sets. Go after midnight and dance the night away, then stumble around the corner to the Chocolatería San Ginés for hot chocolate and churros.
Website: teatroeslava.com
Price: ££
Teatro Kapital
This huge and wildly popular club is set in a former theatre and sprawls over seven galleried floors with a different vibe on each level. Start on the main dance floor but venture upwards for karaoke on the second floor or a giant gin and tonic in the cocktail bar on level four. If you are more into mojitos and reggaetón, hit floor five, and if you need a breath of fresh air, go up to the roof terrace. You get two drinks with your entry ticket before 1am but only one after that.
Website: teatrokapital.com
Price: ££
Confetti, smoke and coloured lights are all regular fixtures on the main dance floor at Teatro Kapital
Sala La Riviera
Down by the Manzanares river, La Riviera is a landmark venue with a large stage, a huge circular dance floor, nine bars and an outdoor space too – which is where everyone hangs out on hot summer nights when the breeze from the river means it is a few degrees cooler than in the centre. As well as club nights with DJs, it has an interesting programme of concerts by both major artists and up-and-coming bands.
Website: salariviera.com
Prices: ££
Best for flamencoLas Carboneras
On a lovely square in the heart of Madrid, this basement venue is run by flamenco artists. Although it is popular with tourists, the performances are always authentic, featuring top dancers, singers and musicians. There are usually three shows every evening and you can either book just for the performance and a drink (one hour) or for tapas beforehand as well (two hours). Children are welcome and are usually enthralled by the experience. If you get into the flamenco groove and want to keep the vibe going afterwards, head to the no-frills bar San Román Al Vicente Copas (Puerta Cerrada 7) for a drink.
Website: tablaolascarboneras.com
Prices: ££
Teatro Flamenco Madrid
If you don’t know where to start with flamenco, book to see a performance at the Teatro Flamenco Madrid in the heart of Malasaña. With three sessions every evening, starting at 6pm and lasting an hour, this is an excellent way to get a taste of the passion involved in flamenco music and dance – and you’ll have plenty of time for dinner and drinks in this lively area too. If you fancy having a go yourself, a variety of classes are planned to take place regularly at the theatre.
Website​: teatroflamencomadrid.com
Price​:​ ​£££ ​
Best for live musicClamores
Musicians from Spain and all over the world perform at this basement club in the Chamberí neighbourhood. Although Clamores is renowned for its jazz and blues concerts, the programme often features flamenco, folk, tango, latin and rock music too. Be prepared for a bit of a scrum around the marble tables without much room for manoeuvre, particularly at weekends. Fortunately the waiting staff are super efficient at wiggling between the gaps to keep everyone topped up with beers, gin and tonics and cocktails. Opt for Una Ranchera Jamaicana, for a mix of rum, mezcal and cocoa liqueur.
Website: salaclamores.es
Prices: £
The crowded basement club Clamores hosts excellent jazz and blues concerts – www.jaimemassieu.com/Jaime Massieu
Café Central – Ateneo
After more than 40 years just off the Plaza de Santa Ana, the Café Central moved to the Ateneo de Madrid, where continues with its programme of jazz and blues concerts every night at 8pm and 10pm. The Ateneo cultural club was founded in 1835 by liberal intellectuals and the café oozes with character, so this is a happy outcome for a much-loved Madrid institution. You can just have drinks or have sharing plates or dinner during the concerts (best to book ahead).
Website: cafecentralmadrid.com/en
Price: ££
How we choose
Every bar, venue or experience in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, who has visited to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets and styles, from casual pubs to exquisite cocktail bars – to best suit every type of traveller – and consider the service, drinks, atmosphere and price in our recommendations. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations.