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And the anti-tourist protests that have been reported? Graffiti and stickers that say “Tourists go home”? Was my presence here a hindrance to the local ecosystem?
“The big problem is that because of this huge influx of tourists, the cost of real estate has gone sky high,” said Michael Tonello, a US expat who came here more than 20 years ago. “This is the main beef. Because now you have kids graduating from college and they can’t afford to even rent a studio apartment.”
The primary factor driving high real estate prices in Barcelona is the proliferation of short-term rentals through companies such as Airbnb and Vrbo. Over the past decade, the cost of housing per square meter in Spain has risen by 85 percent, according to the website Idealista. Landlords can make more money from short-term rentals, which has made the market difficult for locals.
Measures are underway to change this. Barcelona Mayor Jaume Collboni said the City Council will not renew any licenses for tourist-use apartments once they expire in November 2028. That means tourists will go back to hotels. The city is also currently cracking down on landlords who are not licensed for short-term rentals.
Barcelona is taking other steps to mitigate the effects of overtourism. It’s doubling the number of civic wardens who patrol heavily touristed areas such as Sagrada Família, La Rambla, and the area surrounding Park Güell. These uniformed wardens are there not only to provide information, but also for “promoting respectful behavior and civic responsibility.” They’re funded by the city’s tourism tax, which was doubled this year.
It’s an uneasy balance. While a City Council survey found that 76 percent of Barcelona residents feel that tourism has reached its ceiling, they also recognize that it’s a necessary economic driver.
“The people here want to make a lot of money through tourism,” said Juan Canal. “Spain has a service economy.”
As I sat in Bodega 8, which I highly recommend, listening to the current state of tourism, I began hatching a plan for how I would spend my time here. I wanted to be part of the solution, not the throng. There’s a lot to do in this city, not just looking at the architecture of Antoni Gaudí.
I decided to come to Barcelona because JetBlue introduced a new nonstop flight from Boston, which is currently the longest route the carrier offers. Barcelona is a popular destination from Boston, and I was curious to know what Bostonians would encounter once here. Perhaps a firing squad of water guns?
On previous trips, I saw the greatest hits, namely Sagrada Família and Park Güell. Also, those going to Barcelona don’t need me to recommend these modernisme Gaudí masterpieces. Everyone knows Barcelona equals Gaudí. So I went to the attractions of Barcelona that don’t get as much foot traffic. That started at the swoon-worthy Hospital de Sant Pau.
An elaborate hall inside the Hospital de Sant Pau, a hospital designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner at the turn of the last century.Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
The hospital, built between 1901 and 1930, is a campus of 27 buildings designed by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner (Gaudí was one of his students). It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. These buildings are so magnificent and intricate that it’s difficult to believe that they ever functioned as a hospital. If you’re a fan of architecture or just like looking at pretty things, plan to spend a couple of hours here. There are guided tours, but I preferred the audio guide, which let me go at my own pace.
There were other visitors at Hospital de Sant Pau, but it wasn’t clogged with lines. I wouldn’t even describe it as busy. It was a beautiful day, and this is a place that any Art Deco lover would, and should, seek out. Then I saw it, a double-decker bus, tourists with camera phones at the ready to snap a picture of one of the exterior buildings. It would likely end up in an Instagram or Facebook post with a caption like “Saw this in Barcelona.”
What a loss.
Instead of hop-on, hop-off tourism buses, I highly recommend using the subway in Barcelona. It’s efficient, (relatively) inexpensive, and very easy to navigate. You don’t need to speak Spanish, just look for the big red M’s to find the station entrances. I bought a four-day pass for 36 Euros (about $42), and used it endlessly.
Whenever I travel, I build in free time to simply walk around and get lost. That was my plan after Hospital de Sant Paul. I took the subway to a neighborhood called Gràcia and started walking from the area’s quaint square, Plaça del Sol. Here is where the beauty of getting lost fully comes into play. As I walked, I started to hear thunderous percussion and marching bands, Naturally I started following the noise.
Dancers take part in the Bolivian Carnival Parade in Barcelona.Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
It was the Bolivian Carnival Parade. There were what seemed like miles of Bolivian folk dancers coming down the street in costumes so flashy and fun that Liberace would have been envious. I got gelato and stood and watched. This was pure happenstance, and it was incredibly joyful. Did I know there was a massive Bolivian folk dancing community in Barcelona? Absolutely not. Was I thrilled I happened across it? Completely.
After the parade, I continued walking toward Carrera de Verdi, a bustling shopping street, and came across a treasure trove of independent shops. I stopped at a movie theater, Cinemas Verdi, which was hosting the Barcelona Film Festival. I scanned the options and bought a ticket to a movie called “The Birthday Party” starring Willem Dafoe. The actor was there to introduce the film. Again, the timing and the location, it was pure coincidence. The best things happen when you deviate from the predictable.
Staying with the theme of being a good tourist, I avoided an Airbnb and booked a hotel. I can understand the appeal of an Airbnb, especially when traveling with a family. There are so many incredible food markets that the idea of having a kitchen to prepare meals is very tempting. But I didn’t want to be part of the problem. I like the Spain-based chain NH Hotel Group, which has eight locations in Barcelona. I preferred the NH Collection Barcelona Constanza, which was located outside the tourist-heavy district. Those who prefer to be in the action should look at NH Collection Barcelona Gran Hotel Calderón.
A beachfront restaurant in Castelldefels, a town south of Barcelona.Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
Barcelona is known for its beaches, but there have been problems with tourists who stroll up from the beach in swimsuits and enter nice shops and restaurants in bikinis and board shorts, or sometimes less. This is somewhat baffling because there are beautiful beaches outside the city where you can stretch out and stay in more casual attire. The day after my city adventures, I jumped on the train south to visit the beach towns of Castelldefels and Sitges.
Both are very easy to reach by train; Castelldefels is about 30 minutes from Barcelona, while Sitges is 45 minutes. I was able to get there using my standard Barcelona subway pass, which seemed like an incredible bargain for a beach day. My first stop was Castelldefels. In the town square, I stumbled into a circle of folks dancing the Sardana, a traditional Catalan dance, complete with an 11-piece band. I pulled up a chair and watched while eating a xuixo (pronounced shoo shoo), a Catalan pastry deep fried and filled with a citrus custard. And yes, it tastes as amazing as it sounds.
Stained glass windows inside Castelldefels Castle, located 30 minutes south of Barcelona.Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
A post-pastry walk brought me to Castelldefels Castle, an imposing fortress that overlooks the Mediterranean. I was too drawn to the water to spend too much time in the castle, and after stopping to admire the beach, I got back on the train and headed another 15 minutes south to Sitges.
Tourists explore the side streets of Sitges, a beach town 45 minutes south of Barcelona.Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
The best way to describe Sitges is that it’s like having a slice of the French Riveria in Spain. The tree-lined promanade was filled with families, couples, and a heathly slice of LGBTQ+ beach-goers. I hadn’t planned to spend time on the beach, but the weather was perfect, and I was too in love with the moment not to get in the water. I bought a bathing suit and a towel and spent more time than I should have lying in the sun. Trust me, you would have done the same.
The gardens outside Montjuïc Castle, a 17th-century fortress in Barcelona.Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
On my final day, I took inspiration from the movie “Vicky Christina Barcelona” and visited Tibidabo, Spain’s oldest amusement park that still operates many of its classic rides. I didn’t see Javier Bardem there, but there are incredible city views. On the other side of the city, I took three funiculars to reach Mountjüic Castle, another spot with history and views.
The scene inside Mercat dels Encants, a massive vintage market in Barcelona.Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
I felt like I was being a good tourist going to spots such as the New Encants Market, which I would describe as the world’s coolest garage sale that looks as if it takes place housed in a zinc spaceship. If you don’t come for the bric-a-brac, then stop by to admire the architecture. And speaking of architecture, I decided to indulge in a bit of Gaudí, but not one of the overcrowded buildings. Casa Vicens, recognized as the first house built by Gaudí, was opened to the public in 2017, and when I visited was quiet compared to his other works. I strolled through the rooms, studied the exterior tile work, and took time to study the tiles.
The beauty of it, and the rest of my trip, was that I never felt rushed or claustrophobic. Best of all, I felt as if I was treating the city with the respect it deserves.
The exterior of Casa Vicens, recognized as the first house built by Antonio Gaudí in Barcelona.Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
Christopher Muther can be reached at christopher.muther@globe.com. Follow him @Chris_Muther and Instagram @chris_muther.