Fine dining on board the Al Andalus rolls through Andalusia. Photo / Supplied
I certainly didn’t mind leisurely backtracking on the itinerary visiting Aranjuez, Toledo, Alcazar de San Juan, Caceres, Campo de Criptana, Merida, Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz, Cordoba and Seville.
You can take the journey in the opposite direction, leaving from Seville, but since I started in Madrid, it would be a shame to travel from the other side of the world and miss the Spanish capital.
This was my first time in Madrid, and the streets are quite literally lined with tapas bars, especially near the elegant Hotel Villa Real 5* Madrid and the Eurostars Gran Via hotel, where I spent six glorious nights between the two hotels.
The decadence turned up a notch when it was time to meet the other train passengers.
As the only solo traveller, I found this an anxious moment until I met several lively couples from Mexico, Australia, India, Scotland and the United Kingdom, who kept the laughter flowing, much like the wine did for the entire trip.
Although I can’t guarantee you will be as fortunate with your fellow passengers, I can confirm that the joyous staff kept the party going right until we were left to our own devices in Seville.
Always intrigued with the romance of the Orient Express, it was a pinch-me moment when I first set sight on the Al Andalus train.
Head waiter and overall extraordinaire, Mel, waited on the platform in a uniform complete with white gloves, ready to take the hand of every guest climbing aboard.
White-gloved staff serve gastronomic feasts fit for royalty. Photo / Supplied
This would become a regular occurrence as the staff awaited our return after each daily excursion, adorned with those gloves in the same fashion that once greeted royalty journeying through France in the very same carriages.
Our Belle Epoque beauty retains all the character of the 1920s within its restored carriages, combined with modern comforts such as private en suites and air conditioning, welcome conveniences if travelling through Spain during the summer months, as I did.
Restored carriages blend period elegance with modern comforts. Photo / Supplied
Like all the cabins, my deluxe suite featured polished hardwood panelling with inlaid decorative details, warm lighting, plush upholstery and large windows framing golden fields, olive groves and stone farmhouses adorning the landscape.
My lounge magically transformed into a double bed during dinner service, or into twin beds if staying in a grand class cabin. Being rocked to sleep while en route was one of my favourite aspects of the journey.
The deluxe suite lounge transforms into a double bed at night. Photo / Supplied
As opulent as the train was, warm Spanish hospitality kept the vibe relaxed and the dress code casual.
Pack stretchy clothing as each meal is a gastronomic extravaganza fit for royalty, both onboard and at the restaurants we visited each day, showcasing the region’s seafood, Manchego, Iberian ham and an endless flow of wine.
The train’s team of chefs work with the restaurants we visited, and Chef Andres Fernandez said, “We have certain ideas and ingredients to play with, and we co-ordinate with the restaurants so none of the dishes are repeated on the train”.
One standout dining experience was at Las Musas, known for its rustic Manchegan cuisine in Campo de Criptana. This hilltop town is famed for its cluster of windmills, which feature in Don Quixote, written by Miguel Cervantes, who is believed to have had many misadventures in the region.
Dining cart on Al Andalus. Photo / Carmen Jenner
In an ode to peasant fare, we began with Shepherd’s breadcrumbs with pancetta and grapes, followed by Manchego suckling lamb chops and completed by creamy French toast.
Suckling pig carried on a paso (wooden board) by two toga-clad waiters was another highlight at Parador De Merida. This former 18th-century Baroque convent forms part of the Paradores de Turismo de Espana, a network of state-owned hotels transformed from palaces, castles, monasteries and fortresses.
I suspect I may have had the perfect seafood feast at Casa Bigote in Cadiz. Sweet grilled prawns were followed by sauteed grouper loin with pancetta, served with crunchy French fries and drizzled with sherry. The seafood rice was an exquisite blend of fish and shellfish floating in a briny broth.
We finished with raisin ice cream and a caramel flan, drenched in rich, locally produced Pedro Ximenez sherry.
Turn down service in the Deluxe Suite on Al Andalus. Photo / Carmen Jenner
As guests of the Al Andalus, we were given access to many exclusive activities, including a visit to the family run Valdivieso Estate, a sustainable cheese factory that has produced everything on-site since 1857. While on a farm tour, I learned that what defines Manchego cheese is the high-quality milk from Manchego sheep.
Olive oil tasting in Caceres, being escorted by a gladiator through a Roman amphitheatre in Merida, dancing Andalusian horses in Jerez, Flamenco in Seville and a cathedral hidden within a mosque in Cordoba was a kaleidoscope of Andalusian culture.
Before I knew it, the time had come to leave my moveable palace and newfound friends in Seville. Here I settled into the impressive Moorish architecture of the Vincci La Rabida Hotel.
Vincci La Rabida Hotel in Seville. Photo / Carmen Jenner
Obviously, I was thankful that there wasn’t a murder; however, I felt like I had died and gone to heaven from a magnificent death of a thousand indulgences.
The writer travelled courtesy of Spain Tourism and RENFE Tren Al Andalus.