The Spanish tortilla is a hill locals will gladly die on.
In 1932, a traveling salesman named Herman Lay started peddling bags of potato chips out of the trunk of his Ford Model A. After nearly a century, which saw the brand provide the storied chip to their customers in colorful bags, his corporate descendants have crossed the Atlantic to commit what can only be described as culinary blasphemy.
Step into any traditional tavern in Madrid and you will hear patrons arguing over the correct state of the egg. Should it be runny (jugosa) or firm? Onion (con cebolla) or no onion? It is a culinary religion, which makes PepsiCo’s new venture on Calle de Fuencarral feel less like a restaurant launch and more like a brand taking a bold, controversial side.
It’s called Pilla Tortilla.
Pilla Tortilla, Madrid. (Source: Erica Gerald Mason)
Erica Gerald Mason
The concept sounds like a late-night college mashup: a small, retro-modern eatery where the kitchen doesn’t peel potatoes, choosing instead to hydrate Lay’s potato chips in beaten egg before tossing them into the frying pan. I walked in ready to try it all, doing my part for science. I am, after all, a giver at heart.
My daughter holding the Pilla Tortilla sign. (Source: Erica Gerald Mason)
Erica Gerald Mason
I left the restaurant wondering if we’ve been treating the humble potato chip like an afterthought for the last century.
It shouldn’t work. When you soak crispy, salted potato chips in egg, they should theoretically turn into a soggy, mushy dough. Surprisingly, they don’t. Instead, they expand, absorbing the moisture while keeping a deeply savory flavor profile that raw potatoes, which are notoriously difficult to salt evenly, can’t match.
The tortillas at Pilla Tortilla. (Source: Erica Gerald Mason)
The standout of the menu is the pork with caramelized onion tortilla. It is a tasty slice where the sweetness of the slow-cooked onions cuts directly through the rich, shredded pork. If you want something brighter, the honey and tomato version delivers a sweet, acidic contrast that takes the egg-and-oil base to another level. Then there is the bacon tortilla, a smoky, salty punch of pure comfort food.
To drink, I skipped the beer and started my meal with a cold glass of tart gazpacho. The sharp, chilled tomato broth acts as the perfect appetizer, prepping the palate for the hearty egg-and-oil mixture to follow.
Beyond the Tortilla
The menu was created in consultation with Michelin-starred chef Miguel Carretero, and he refuses to let the potato chips rest in the kitchen.
The Mussels: Steamed mussels are served directly over a bed of Lay’s. The hot, briny ocean juice pools at the bottom of the plate, softening the chips into a rich, sea-salted mash. I found myself holding my fork like a spear, ready to jab anyone’s fingers who happened to wander too close to my platter.
The Anchovies: A plate of sharp, vinegar-cured white anchovies and olives draped over chips offers a cleaner, sharper bite, though it functions more as a what my daughter and I refer to as a little “snackeroni and cheese” —without the cheese— before the main event.
Because we were there to do thorough research, we also squeezed in orders of the crispy chicken bites and ham croquettes, you know, purely for journalistic integrity.
The mussels and anchovies over chips were my favorite appetizers. (Source: Erica Gerald Mason)
A Salty-Sweet Finish
For dessert, the kitchen leans fully into the salty-sweet trend with ice cream studded with crushed chips.
My husband and daughter immediately claimed the sticky, sweet dulce de leche bowl. I fought them for the goat milk version. The earthy, slightly sour tang of the goat’s milk paired with the salty crunch of the chips is a delicious way to end such a savory meal.
Dessert at Pilla Tortilla. (Source: Erica Gerald Mason)
Maybe we’ve treated the potato chip as a sandwich’s sidekick for way too long. Perhaps 2026 is the perfect time to start treating it as a main ingredient. Next time I’m in Madrid, I’ll pop over for a tortilla. I’ll do my best not to jab anyone with a fork.
No promises, though.
About the author
Trending News Writer, Parade
Erica Gerald Mason is a news writer for Parade, where she specializes in finding the story behind the scroll. She dives into the biggest news in entertainment, decodes the latest social media trends, and revisits the pop culture nostalgia that shapes our world.