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The Monastrell Association\u2019s regions, including Jumilla (pictured), have breathtaking landscapes.<\/p>\nIf Monastrell has flown under the radar in the UK, that is not for a lack of quality. db attended a London Wine Fair masterclass to understand how the grape is meeting contemporary trends \u2013 and how it might \u2018help us survive the next century\u2019.<\/p>\n
The Monastrell Association\u2019s regions, including Jumilla (pictured), have breathtaking landscapes.<\/p>\n
When it comes to Spanish wines in the UK, Sarah Jane Evans MW is one of the leading ambassadors. Her decades of enthusiasm for the nation\u2019s wines, not to mention her expertise, means that when she speaks, the trade listens.<\/p>\n
So it was notable that, speaking at London Wine Fair last month, she focused on Monastrell. While Tempranillo and Garnacha have historically dominated the discourse (thanks to the fame of Rioja) and whites such as Albari\u00f1o are meeting consumer trends, Monastrell is undeniably a grape with momentum behind it and untapped potential.<\/p>\n
\u201cThere\u2019s more to Spain than Tempranillo,\u201d Evans advised. To prove her point, she presented eight examples spanning the five key denominations for Monastrell production: Alicante, Almansa, Bullas, Jumilla and Yecla. Together, these denominations \u2013 located in southeastern Spain, across the provinces of Murcia, Albacete and Alicante \u2013 have formed the Monastrell Association.<\/p>\n
\u201cIt\u2019s a very special selection of wines,\u201d she commented. Indeed, the selection highlighted precisely why Monastrell\u2019s reputation is growing, with its character, heritage and adaptability all contributing to its 21st Century success.<\/p>\n
Something for everyone<\/p>\n
\u201cThere is not just one style here,\u201d Evans explained. \u201cYou can have bottles for everyday drinking or something much more special.\u201d<\/p>\n
Indeed, Monastrell has emerged as a versatile, gastronomic option for a modern drinker. It can still produce rich, intense wines \u2013 the apogee of which is Fondill\u00f3n from Alicante \u2013 but it can also create lively and juicy wines that could even be served chilled.<\/p>\n
\u201cIn past years, it had become a clich\u00e9 of an overdone, over-bold wine,\u201d Evans said. \u201cI want to show you today that these do not need to be very deeply coloured, very concentrated wines.\u201d<\/p>\n
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Monastrell on the vine.<\/p>\n
Across the five DOs, which constitute the heartland of the variety, you find a range of conditions and therefore of styles. Although Evans defined it broadly as Mediterranean, the climate can vary considerably. There is a marked difference between the coastal vineyards of Alicante and inland Almansa, for example, with elevation a further factor to defy simplification.<\/p>\n
That is before winemaking is even considered. The tasting showcased monovarietal, traditional examples alongside internationally-influenced blends. There was oak employed off various sizes and ages, as well as clay amphorae. In working with Monastrell, there is no single style.<\/p>\n
Yet the wines were unified by those qualities that, invariably, matter most to drinkers. \u201cOne thing we all look for,\u201d said Evans, \u201cis that balance between fruit, acidity and alcohol, and that is something these wines do naturally.\u201d<\/p>\n
A living history<\/p>\n
In a market where virtually any wine can be sourced from any corner of the globe, it is increasingly important for producers to stand out. Having great wine is one thing, but having a great story also counts.<\/p>\n
In that endeavour, the union of the five DOs under the banner of the Monastrell Association is crucial. Together, they are articulating a story of heritage that resonates across markets.<\/p>\n
\u201cWe have already been here many generations with Monastrell,\u201d said Evans. \u201cLocally, they know how to make their wines.<\/p>\n
\u201cThey are continuing to adapt to recognise and preserve what they have. They speak, these old vines, of a very old tradition. What we call resilience today is simply tradition.\u201d<\/p>\n
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Old plots of Monastrell, like these bush vines, are a huge viticultural asset.<\/p>\n
The heritage of Monastrell comes with clear advantages. It is an indigenous variety, offering a change from the so-called international varieties (that are, more often than not, French in origin). Though it is grown elsewhere, mostly under the name Mourv\u00e8dre, its origins are Spanish and these five regions offer its most authentic examples. That, for the involved consumer, is a selling point.<\/p>\n
Yet it also taps into, as Evans hinted, the trend for old vine wines. As well as being a marketable distinction, old vines tend to produce concentrated fruit with structural balance, improving the quality of the wine. There is no universally accepted definition, but with many vineyards spanning back decades, these are undeniably meeting the category: \u201cWhen it says old vines, these are proper old vines,\u201d Evans commented.<\/p>\n
Moreover, there are even pockets of vineyards still on their original rootstocks, a real rarity for old vine enthusiasts and particularly rare in Europe.<\/p>\n
Future-proof winemaking<\/p>\n
However, it is not just the quality and the heritage that commends Monastrell as a grape to watch. The variety has a vital role to play in a changing world.<\/p>\n
The Monastrell Association bills it as \u2018the grape variety the future needs\u2019 because Monastrell is already adapted to hot and dry conditions that, in an era of climate change, are threatening wine regions around the world.<\/p>\n
It is a late-ripening variety, meaning that it will ripen through a long, warmer season without losing its freshness. Monastrell also has thick skins, adapting it to dry environments effectively. It therefore fares much better in warming climates than other grapes.<\/p>\n
\u201cThe world is looking for varieties that will help us survive the next century,\u201d Evans said. \u201cAlthough we\u2019re in this extreme and demanding climate, these Monastrell wines can make it.\u201d<\/p>\n
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Evans with the day\u2019s wines.<\/p>\n
That is not, however, to diminish the role that growers have played in promoting Monastrell. From careful canopy management to preserving a heritage of bush vines, the local heritage of winegrowing has realised Monastrell\u2019s potential.<\/p>\n
\u201cYou have to be dedicated to make wines here,\u201d Evans suggested. \u201cAll of these wines deserve the greatest respect.\u201d<\/p>\n
In fact, the winemaking styles of these regions, developed over centuries, have met trends long before they gained widespread traction. One reason for the immense respect afforded to these local growers is their strong investment in organic conversion. Thanks to Monastrell\u2019s natural advantages, growers have whole-heartedly embraced the practice. These are \u201cgenuinely sustainable wines\u201d, Evans proposed.<\/p>\n
You might sum up Monastrell\u2019s position with one of the Monastrell Association\u2019s taglines: \u2018A taste of sunshine\u2019. Certainly, you have the sunny appeal of Mediterranean wines, produced in a range of styles that suit both gastronomy and al fresco drinking. You have a grape variety with rich heritage, born of sunny Spanish climes, rather than imported from elsewhere. Essentially, for the future of the industry, you also have a grape that can face up to a challenging climate and still produce exemplary wines. As one of Spain\u2019s great viticultural assets, Monastrell\u2019s standing in the UK market has every reason to grow.<\/p>\n
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