I think I’ve found the most perfect view in all of Wales….
I’m sitting on the balcony of my room, glass of fizz in hand, looking out over what could easily be mistaken for Lake Como or an Alpine escape(Image: Portia Jones )
I’m convinced I’m witnessing the most incredible sunset I’ve ever seen, and I should know; I’ve chased many in my time. The sky’s pulling off a dazzling gradient of colour as golden hues melt into midnight blues and finally inky black, over an idyllic forest-and-lake landscape.
I’m sitting on the balcony of my room, glass of fizz in hand, looking out over what could easily be mistaken for Lake Como or an opulent Alpine escape. Snow-capped peaks? No. Dramatic lake views framed by forested hills? Absolutely. The twist? I’m in Wales and staying at the grandiose Lake Vrnwy Hotel in Powys.
Located in a 24,000-acre estate on a forested hillside overlooking a dramatic, mountain-ringed lake, this swish hotel commands one of the most impressive views of Lake Vyrnwy reservoir and has been wowing visitors since 1890.
Neither would be here without a very thirsty Liverpool(Image: Portia Jones )
The origin story of this hotel is intertwined with the scenic lake and dam because neither would be here without a very thirsty Liverpool. In the 1800s, the port city of Liverpool was booming but had a wildly insufficient water supply to keep residents hydrated and industry flourishing.
So, in true British fashion, they scouted for aqua and found it right here in the verdant Vyrnwy Valley. With over 400 streams and a perfect rocky base, it was declared the ideal spot to drown an entire Welsh village and build what became Britain’s first large masonry dam. Cheers for that.
Llanwddyn was relocated uphill, the valley was flooded, and by 1889, water began its 68-mile journey east to keep Liverpudlian kettles boiling. It was the world’s second-largest civil engineering project back then, and the vast reservoir remains Severn Trent’s most ambitious.
To impress visiting dignitaries and business types marvelling at this outstanding engineering feat, the Liverpool Corporation built the hotel in 1890, and demand soon exploded.
It’s located in a 24,000-acre estate on a forested hillside overlooking a dramatic, mountain-ringed lake(Image: Portia Jones )
And you can see why, it’s a total stunner, with views over the lake that still astonish. Royalty even popped by to have a nose. In 1910, 20 years after the hotel’s completion, the then Prince of Wales, later King George V, arrived to officially open the dam and visited the hotel.
Since then, the hotel has been extended and spruced up with new bedrooms, a conference and banqueting suite and the Tavern bar. The Bisiker family now owns it and has been run by Anthony Rosser since 2000. Lake Vrnwy is also part of the Rarebits Collection, which includes Wales’ top country house hotels, historic inns and restaurants.
I had come for a mid-week escape with my obliging husband to see if this historic hotel lived up to the hype and delivered more than just dreamy lake views.
Location
Lake Vyrnwy is obviously the star attraction here(Image: Portia Jones )
Lake Vyrnwy is obviously the star attraction here, and the hotel is ideally positioned for panoramic views across the water and alpine-looking landscape. Perched above the reservoir, you’re just a short walk or drive from a nature reserve, forested trails and cascading waterfalls.
Cross the masonry dam and you’ll find a visitor hub, RSBP bird hide, cafe, bike hire and boathouse offering watersports, kayak and SUP rentals.
Like most of North Wales, the main drawback here is the lack of public transport, so a car is essential in these parts, especially if you want to explore further afield and chase some waterfalls.
Perched above the reservoir, you’re just a short walk or drive from a nature reserve, forested trails and cascading waterfalls.(Image: Portia Jones )Facilities
Lake Vyrnwy has all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a four-star stay, but with a bonus historic personality. Fancy restaurant dishing up posh plates? Check. Grand drawing room straight out of a period drama? Check. Glass-fronted spa with a whirlpool and views so dreamy you’ll simply forget your life, admin and stresses. Big check. And yes, there’s a bar with a lake view, because it would be rude not to.
This sprawling lakeside hideaway is full of nooks and crannies to explore (Image: Lake Vyrnwy Hotel and Spa)
This sprawling lakeside hideaway is full of nooks and crannies to explore and unwind in. Sip fizz on the terrace while the sun dips behind the hills, head to the small but mighty spa for a steam and soak, or cosy up in the homely Tavern Bar with a pint.
The spa and wellness centre also enjoys lake views from a sun trap terrace, a big bubbly hot tub and heated loungers. The ‘thermal suite’ offering includes Showers of Monsoon & Fragrant Mist, blending cold and warm water, promising a “multi-sensory experience”.
There’s also a salt Steam and sauna. Treatment-wise, you have a range of massages and facials to soothe tired limbs and scrub faces squeaky clean.
Push the boat out and boom the Champagne & truffles deluxe treatment for a luxury facial utilising truffle skincare with specialist lifting massage techniques.
Dining
The Tower Restaurant is the hotel’s main dining option(Image: Lake Vyrnwy Hotel and Spa)
The Tower Restaurant is the hotel’s main dining option, serving breakfast, afternoon tea and classic British cuisine with a Welsh twist. Typical plates include Welsh beef fillet, truffle mashed potatoes, pan-fried seabass fillets with roast Mediterranean vegetables, and roast duck two ways.
We went all in on the mains: a Welsh lamb rump for me (because when in Wales, right?) and a parmesan-crusted chicken breast for my husband. Now, I’m outrageously fussy with lamb. If it’s not blushing in the middle, I’m not interested; it may as well be shoe leather.
Thankfully, the chef understood the assignment. A gloriously pink, tender cut that practically melted on the fork arrived. It came served with a red wine jus and a rich and creamy sweet potato dauphinoise, a delicious variation of the classic French dish that added sweetness to the plate.
The chicken, meanwhile, was a pan-seared, parmesan-crusted delight accompanied by herb mash potatoes, grilled asparagus and a rich lemon-basil butter sauce that was divine.
We went all in on the mains(Image: Portia Jones)
While the food and service were on point, the restaurant’s interior décor is a little meh for my taste. It doesn’t quite match the rest of the hotel’s charming, antique-laden character. It’s more “conference room afterthought” than “romantic lakeside retreat.”
The vibe is a little dated and clearly banking on the impressive lake views to distract you from the nondescript interior that would benefit from a few bold design tweaks.
If the weather’s behaving, dine alfresco on the terrace and soak up lake views instead. Afterwards, pop to the Tavern bar for a bevvy in relaxed surroundings and if it’s a warm night, sip your wine outside and enjoy the stillness and soothing sounds of nature. Bliss. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here
Rooms
Lake Vyrnwy has all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a four-star stay(Image: deJetleyMarks Photography)
Choose from a mix of garden and lake view rooms, though I strongly recommend you get a lake room with a balcony for maximum viewing pleasure. Rooms feature the expected offerings of private bathrooms with walk-in showers, bathrobes, free toiletries, tea and coffee makers, work desks, and flat-screen TVs. A few dog-friendly rooms are also available for a small fee, welcoming well-behaved pups.
Morning coffee with a view(Image: Portia Jones )
Our room was reasonably sized with classic ‘country house hotel’ vibes and featured a balcony, heavy drapes, and antique-looking furniture possibly predating email.
Much like the restaurant, the décor isn’t exactly a design statement unless the statement is “we stopped updating this in 1998.” But let’s be honest, you’re not here for Farrow & Ball colour palettes and industrial chic lighting. You’re here for that knockout lake view, and it absolutely delivers.
Verdict and booking
You’ll feel like you’re in the Alps(Image: Portia Jones )
Lake Vyrnwy Hotel might benefit from a few interior design touches, but who cares when the views are this magnificent? With a fizz in hand and the sun setting over that woodland-hugged reservoir, you’ll feel like you’re in the Alps, with fewer zeroes on the bill. The spa’s a bonus, the food’s spot-on, and the location? Peak Wales.
Prices at Lake Vyrnwy Hotel and Spa start from around £195 B&B per night for two sharing, a two-hour session with use of the spa’s thermal suite is £15 per person for hotel guests. Treatments should be pre-booked (extra). Book through the Rarebits Collection at www.rarebits.co.uk, or call 01570 470785.