In a nutshell

Situated along a sleepy stretch of the French Riviera high above the glittering Mediterranean Sea, Les Roches Rouges is a whitewashed sugar cube of a hotel that unfolds down the cliffside in a jumble of sun-bleached terraces, mustard-yellow awnings, and rattan accents. This is one of the most acclaimed hotels by French hospitality brand Beaumier, and it’s easy to see why: there are two show-stopping pools to sprawl by, rooms are kitted out with modish mid-century interiors, and the place just oozes a level of understated Côte d’Azur cool that puts most of the coast’s glitzy grande dames to shame. Much of the appeal in a stay here is leaning into the easy-breezy vibe: the pace is noticeably slower than most of the Riviera’s see-and-be-seen five-star pads, and you’ll be spread-eagled by the pool with a glass of rosé before you’ve even unpacked.

Three things I loved:

  • The 22-metre lap pool cut straight into the cliffside: quite possibly the most Insta-worthy pool along this stretch of coastline
  • Sundowners with a view at Estelo, the hotel’s all-day restaurant, which spills out onto an expansive cliffside terrace
  • The Atelier Saint-Lazare-designed bedrooms in the hotel’s more modern extension. Floor-to-ceiling sliding doors mean you’ll wake up to unspoilt panoramas over the Med

A bird’s eye view of the pool at Les Roches Rouges

Corners at the hotel just asking to be captured

Rooms

The hotel’s 67 bedrooms are mostly minimal and whitewashed, with dashes of terracotta and rattan threaded throughout. Les Roches Rouges first opened close to a decade ago, and while most rooms sit within the original 1950s complex, the hotel unveiled an additional 25 bedrooms in 2025, housed inside a slick modernist extension set slightly apart from the main property. Designed by Antoine Ricardou and Clémentine Larroumet of Atelier Saint-Lazare, these rooms have the best views: floor-to-ceiling sliding doors open onto sea-facing balconies, with marshmallow-soft beds facing straight out towards the endless blue horizon. Rooms are kitted out with mid-century touches and beautifully tiled bathrooms stocked with Grown Alchemist body lotions. Splash out on one of these for the ultimate sleepover; the classic sea-view rooms in the main hotel still remain a stylish option if you’d rather stay closer to the two pools.

Food and drink

There are two places to eat and drink, both championing local produce with a modern Provençal accent. Estelo is the hotel’s all-day restaurant: tables spill onto a cliffside terrace where I slurped down crudo and just-fished seafood each evening, followed by thick cuts of wagyu and vats of crispy French fries. Vegans might struggle with the menu here, which is unrepentantly focused on fish and meat. Return the next morning for a continental breakfast spread of local cheeses, hams, and homemade pastries. Meanwhile, La Chicoula is the relaxed, al fresco bar tucked within the gardens; you’ll find most guests gathering here for evening tipples or grazing on focaccia sandwiches and salads at lunchtime – these can also be ordered straight to your sun lounger.

Sunshine yellow is the theme here

Delicious French fare at the restaurant

Highlights and experiences

The two showstopper pools do most of the heavy lifting: a sleek 22-metre lap pool carved straight into the cliffside, and a saltwater rock number that dangles so close to the sea that water sloshes right over its edge (watch your footing on the seaweed-slick floor, as it’s very easy to slip around on). From the pontoon below, you can dive straight into the Mediterranean for a salty swim, or launch out on kayaks and paddle boards (all available to borrow from the hotel) to explore coves along the coast. Loungers are thankfully plentiful wherever you prefer to perch, so there’s no wrestling other guests for a sunbathing spot: something of a rarity along this stretch of the Med. Beyond the water, there’s a boutique gym for working up a sweat, and the concierge team can arrange boat charters to hidden bays, along with wine tastings and E-bike rentals.

What to do nearby

This quieter and less-manicured stretch of the Côte d’Azur feels worlds away from the buzz of Cannes or the flash of Saint-Tropez. The nearby Estérel Massif is one of the region’s most underrated natural landmarks: its rugged, red-rock formations plunge into the sea for miles along the coast, and hiking trails wind through pine forests and above the shore. For a taste of South of France glam, head out on a day trip to Cannes for La Croisette and its palace hotels; or in the other direction, there’s Saint-Tropez for people-watching in the Old Town and the beach clubs at Pampelonne. Closer to the hotel, sleepy Saint-Raphaël is worth pootling around and there are plenty of local markets to dip into.

Mornings at Les Roches Rouges

Sea views from my terrace

The backstory

Les Roches Rouges is part of the Beaumier group’s growing portfolio of boutique hotels across the French Alps and Mediterranean coast. The DNA is consistent across their properties: understated design and seasonally-led restaurants that attract a well-heeled, in-the-know crowd. This is the group’s most recognised hotel, with Les Roches Rouges holding its own against the coast’s grande dames on design rather than glitz.

Insider tip

Get your Instagram snap of the hotel’s two pools from the balcony just outside reception. Most guests skip this step in their eagerness to rush down to the water, but this is where you’ll get the best view of the entire property.

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The stoney beach at Les Roches Rouges

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Wellness

The petite spa features three hushed treatment rooms, with a menu of Susanne Kaufmann therapies to choose from. I opted for the knot-kneading deep tissue massage, which left me feeling entirely reborn. Time your treatment for the late afternoon – after a lazy pool day – followed by sundowners on the terrace.

Final considerations

Can’t-miss: the 22-metre cliffside lap pool at golden hour
Best for: design-led couples’ escapes; families who don’t need a kids’ club to enjoy a holiday
Location: halfway between Cannes and Saint-Tropez, and just outside Saint-Raphaël
Family friendly: yes: well-behaved tots are welcomed, but don’t expect a kids’ club or amenities specially tailored for children
Accessibility: four adapted rooms and lifts throughout
Wellness: a boutique spa and gym
Loyalty group: Beaumier