Leaving Pembroke for Carmarthen, there’s also Laugharne – a town that Dylan Thomas, who lived there, described as “a timeless, mild, beguiling island”. Situated at the point where the River Taf flows into Carmarthen Bay, it’s packed with typical Welsh slate-roofed buildings, and the food here is also surprisingly great. Dexter’s at Browns is a prestigious farm to fork steakhouse, with cattle sourced from their own herd on Llwyn Farm (browns.wales), while the Castle Fish Bar serves cockles straight from the sea.