The Formula 1 British Grand Prix took place on July 6 this year, only the third time that it has been run on that date, for traditionally it had been held a week or two later, following the F1 French Grand Prix in early July.

However, no F1 French Grands Prix have been staged since 2022, in which year Max Verstappen won for Red Bull on the truncated version of Paul Ricard, but previously they had been run for many decades at Magny-Cours, Dijon, Clermont-Ferrand, Rouen, Le Mans Bugatti, and Reims, and before the 1950 inauguration of the F1 world championship at many other venues too, many of them long forgotten. For example, who among us can put hand on heart and say that they know a lot about the circuit made up of public roads near Dieppe, on which French Grands Prix were run in 1907, 1908, and 1912? Not I.

Of the seven circuits on which world championship-status F1 French Grands Prix have been run, my personal best-to-worst ranking is: Clermont-Ferrand, Rouen, Paul Ricard (the original version), Dijon, Magny-Cours, Reims, and Le Mans Bugatti. To be fair, they were or are all pretty good, except Le Mans Bugatti, which is OK for motorcycle racing but was rubbish for F1 cars, even in 1967, the only year in which it has hosted them. Indeed, having taken the Le Mans Bugatti pole in a Lotus 49 that year, Graham Hill described the circuit as “a Mickey Mouse track”, which slur has since passed into racing argot.

Why was Clermont-Ferrand the best? Well, in my view, Charade, as it was also known, exemplified the difference between road circuits and street circuits, which now proliferate in F1. Yes, there have been some great F1 street circuits – Montjuïc and Long Beach spring to mind – but some of them have been, and/or sadly still are, decidedly Mickey Mouse. Road circuits – in other words racetracks in rural areas made up of temporarily closed public roads – are an entirely different matter, and the greatest of them in an F1 context were the old Spa, Pescara, and Clermont-Ferrand.

Just four French Grands Prix were held at Clermont-Ferrand – in 1965, 1969, 1970, and 1972 – after which it was abandoned by F1 as too dangerous. So what kind of circuit was it? Only one of its straights was actually straight, and all its 50 corners were challenging. Moreover, the roads it utilised were narrow, at just 23.5ft (7.2m) all the way around, and they were often lined on one side by rock faces and on the other by pine trees or even sheer drops, since the circuit ran on old roads in wild and untamed countryside around a dormant volcano in the Auvergne region of the Massif Central. The circuit’s 5.005 miles (8.055km) of abrasive asphalt rose and plunged relentlessly, there was little room for error and no space for run-off, and driving a fast lap required skill, rhythm, and nerve. There were no grandstands, although spectators thronged the tracksides to sit on grass banks or cling to rock faces to watch the exuberant opposite-lockery, to hear the sound of multi-cylinder engines echoing off volcanic stone, and to enjoy the heady scent of pine tree sap, tortured rubber, and hot oil in thin mountain air.

Lotus of Jochen Rindt in the 1972 F1 French Grand Prix at Clermont Ferrand

Jochen Rindt threads his Lotus 72 between Clermont’s rock faces

Paul-Henri Cahier/Getty Images

Races were first held there in 1958, starting with a sports car event won by Innes Ireland in a Lotus 11, followed by a Formula 2 sprint won by Maurice Trintignant in a Cooper T43. The following year, 1959, Clermont-Ferrand hosted the French Grand Prix for motorcycles, won by John Surtees on an MV Agusta. Soon after that, Stirling Moss raced there for the first time, winning the 1959 non-championship F1 Auvergne Grand Prix in a Rob Walker-entered Cooper-Borgward T45, and afterwards he had the following words to say: “I don’t know of a more wonderful track than Charade.”

As you may have noticed while reading the paragraph above, only the greats won at Clermont-Ferrand, and that pattern was maintained when the F1 French Grand Prix was held there for the first time in 1965, for, in his old Lotus 25, Jim Clark scored the seventh of his record eight F1 grands chelems, taking the pole by half a second, driving a fastest lap nearly as rapid as his pole time, and winning by almost half a minute.

The perimeter was lined by shards of volcanic stones on both sides

The F1 French Grand Prix was next held at Charade in 1969, in which year Jochen Rindt, as fast and as brave as anyone who has ever sat in an F1 car, described the circuit as “like a rollercoaster” and complained of motion sickness, as a result of which on the Sunday he wore an open-face helmet just in case he might throw up during the race. That he did not do, but only because he retired his Lotus 49B after 22 laps of the 38-lap race because he was feeling so dizzy that he had begun to see double: not what you need when you are hurling an F1 car around a perilous mountain switchback. Jackie Stewart won that race easily, in a Tyrrell-run Matra MS80, from the pole, driving fastest lap en route, and finishing almost a minute ahead of his team-mate Jean-Pierre Beltoise in another Matra MS80.

The following year, 1970, Motor Sport’s famous continental correspondent Denis ‘Jenks’ Jenkinson attributed Rindt’s queasiness to “an incipient stomach ulcer complaint aggravated by insistent smoking”, which are not words that we ever read about today’s F1 aces. Again Rindt wore an open-face helmet, but that led to another problem, for, although the track surface itself was smooth, its perimeter was lined by shards of volcanic stones on both sides, and in a practice session he was cut on the cheek when one of them was flicked up into his face by the car ahead. Nonetheless, despite having qualified his Lotus 72 only sixth, he raced well the following day to a win that had seemed most unlikely just 24 hours before. As with Clark at Spa, a circuit that he loathed but drove beautifully, Rindt’s sheer class had prevailed on a great circuit, despite his antipathy to the place.