The author on her trip.
This spring, an expected trip took me to northeast Spain, a region where mountainous towns are nestled amid medieval villages, ornate churches with accessible bell towers, tranquilo monasteries, and vineyards that lead to the region’s modern-day claim-to-fame as the “world capital of Garnacha.”
While we launched off from Zaragoza, the capital of the Aragón region that’s also connected to renowned Spanish painter Francisco Goya (who spent his formative years here), we explored other nearby destinations like Calatayud, Tarazona, and Teruel, which are known for its gastronomical highlights and did not disappoint.
How We Got to Zaragoza, Spain
I arrived in Madrid via an Iberia connection through JFK, where I passed a lengthy layover in the comfort of an American Admirals Lounge. (I justified the splurge by loading up on their custom-made guacamole, fresh hummus, and tabouli salad, and getting work done at a quiet corner table bathed in natural light.)
Once in Madrid, a prearranged shuttle was waiting for us, though folks can also choose to either rent a car or get themselves to an affordable high-speed train that transports you to Zaragoza in about 75 minutes.
A jet-lagged pause at a rest stop along our route immediately thrust me into the regional culture. (I always treasure those initial reawakening moments that happen on any trip abroad.) I curiously perused counter cases full of pork rinds and churros, listening to the chit-chat of locals sipping their morning coffee while standing against the bar counter. As we continued with the drive, I attempted to doze but was too captivated by the mountainous terrain marked by stubby trees, wind turbines, and moody skies.
Biggest Surprises
I knew next to nothing about this northeast part of the country. Zaragoza, Spain’s fifth most populated city, sits in the middle of several better-known destinations — Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia, and Bilbao. The drive to the French border is only three hours away. I felt immediately soothed by Zaragoza’s mellow vibe, tree-lined streets, and plethora of city parks, and this sense of ease translated out into the vineyards, farms, and villages we visited too.
During our first dinner, a welcoming and gregarious Zaragoza native shared that her home is known for people who are warm in spirit and strong in will. I loved learning about local activities from river ecotourism along the Ebro to guided bike tours on the city’s copious trails. A few days later, on the stunning site of the Monasterio de Piedra, we hiked through forests and alongside waterfalls that surprisingly felt much like a scene straight from the Pacific Northwest.
As we wandered through smaller towns, I enjoyed seeing how folks have adapted with the times — for example, how Tarazona converted one former bullfighting ring into a semi-circle of apartment buildings that now surround a central plaza where concerts and markets happen. And in places like Zaragoza, you can simply stumble upon ancient Roman ruins as you go about your day.
Stand-Out Accommodations
In Zaragoza, the Hotel Palafox was an elegant home base with a convenient location close to city sites and a bustling tapas corridor — the El Tubo district in the old quarter. Hotel perks included a comfortable room and an upper-level gym in which to work out some jet lag kinks. (Sadly, the rooftop pool had not yet opened for the season during our stay.) And while buffet breakfast spreads are almost always one of my favorite parts of any European travel, this venue’s offerings featured some of my favorites of this trip. Think fresh lox, fruit, meats, cheeses, muesli, breads, coffees, and a host of non-dairy milk options.
Hotel Palacio de Bulbuente also left an impression. When else could I say I slept in a castle-palace dating back to somewhere between the 10th and 16th centuries? The owners restored this historic site, originally belonging to the Abbots of Veruela, which had fallen into disrepair and was at risk of disappearing. After working my way through the labyrinth-like hotel, with artworks and books filling all the nooks and crannies, I was immediately taken by the aesthetic of my hippie-chic room, called “Ojos Verdes” (or “green eyes”). I only wish I’d had more time to relish in its soothing decor, jacuzzi, and terrace overlooking the peaceful property. (I could spy the seasonally operating pool below.)
Food and Drink Highlights
Many meals involved some inclusion of Spanish ham, leeks, and artichokes (in season at the time), seafood, pork, and truffles (when lucky!). And of course, servers always brought out baskets of crusty bread. An interactive cooking class at Zaragoza’s La Zarola paired Garnacha wines with unforgettable courses we helped create. While our enthusiastic chef-instructor admittedly had done much of the prep work, we happily contributed our share.
Personal highlights included the Duroc pork cheeks in (Garnacha) red wine with potatoes and apples, paired with Borsao Tres Picos red Garnacha, whose winery we visited later in the trip. Ever since our meal, I’ve repeatedly dreamt of another dish, too — the sensational ajo blanco (or cold almond soup) topped with sardines and red wine gelatin, and paired with a delightful rosé — the Baltasar Gracian Rosado. (Locals say the first Garnacha in the world appeared in this region, thanks to the terroir that features hot days and cool nights.)
In Zaragoza, we enjoyed chocolate tastings while learning about the Chocopass voucher that allows guests to experience several stops along the city’s sweetest trail. We dove into samples at one of the oldest stores, La Flor de Almibar, as well as more modern ones like Capricho Taller de Chocolate. Next visit, I’d love to dive more deeply into Zaragoza’s tapas scene, too, which involves standing and eating as you shuffle from bar to bar throughout the evening. As one local passionately explained, “Tapas, it’s the secret of a social life.”
During one lunch at Teruel’s El Mercado Restaurant, we slid into a wooden booth with cowhide-covered seats. As the group oohed and ahhed over fresh bread topped with tomato, olive oil, garlic, and salt, I devoured my main — a warm salad chock full of greens, pork, walnuts, raisins, and pears.
On our last night, hours passed during a multicourse meal at Michelin-starred el Batan, a remote destination in a modest hotel located in the heart of the Sierra de Albarracín mountains. The Tramacastilla venue occupies what was once a wool factory, and today the culinary experience is a grand and theatrical one; think fanfare and flair enhancing each presentation, all served in a non-pretentious setting. This extravagant meal showcased the region’s natural bounty found in the surrounding woods and province, with a focus on truffles, trout, and ingredients sourced from local vegetable gardens and meadows.
Memorable Sites
Our adventures allowed us to see a span of cities and teeny towns throughout Aragón. In each place, led by kind and knowledgeable guides, I ogled exquisite, tiled buildings and charming plaza cafes, and loved learning about the rich history of places where Christian, Jewish, and Muslim communities have coexisted throughout the centuries. In Zaragoza, we came to understand the moniker “the city of the two cathedrals,” as we set foot in both the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Pilar and the Cathedral of the Savior, better known as La Seo.
We also feasted our eyes on the northernmost Islamic palace in Europe, The Aljaferia Palace (or “the Palace of Joy”), an 11th-century palace that’s considered one of the pinnacles of Hispano-Muslim art. In 2001, UNESCO declared the Mudéjar architecture of Aragón a World Heritage Site, and this palace was called out as a representative monument of the movement. Another day, we discovered the soothing energy of the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Veruela in Spain, a Cistercian monastery founded in 1146. As we drank in the silence and strolled the sun-dappled property, we heard about the site’s rich history that spans various architectural styles, including Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque.
In Teruel, the capital of the Mudéjar architecture that blends Christian and Islamic influences, we soaked in intricate designs, bedazzling towers, and cathedrals throughout town, and later learned about the legend of the “Lovers of Teruel” — and their mausoleum.
But as you’d imagine, most highlights didn’t emerge from the planned itinerary, but from the spontaneous, serendipitous moments — like catching a kids’ hip-hop dance rehearsal with the magical backdrop of the ancient walled city of Albarracín. Then there was the day we paused for lunch in Fuendejalón, in a casual, family-owned cafe called Rodi, to cheer on women cyclists swirling by during La Vuelta Femenina — the country’s biggest cycling event.
After the blur of cyclists had come and gone, and we’d finished our feast of white asparagus, lubina (sea bass), and traditional chorizo and longaniza, the restaurant ‘s owners led us up a wildflower-dotted hill and into their private, subterranean wine cellar. Here, they showed off how local families produced wine for generations. Some of the vocab needed translating, sure, yet all of the smiles and laughs were delivered in a universal language that immediately connected us all.