The French can take or leave the second city, but Marseille’s multiculturalism, its gritty authenticity and confidence, are right up Joris Minne’s street
French people not liking the place is probably down to its bad image as a rough den of gangs and frequent drug wars. But I think it may be more down to envy.
Because Marseille is sunny, joyful and diverse. Such is its success as a great melting pot, some claim the city to be the capital of the Mediterranean and they don’t always mean it benignly.
Cassis harbour
There are significant communities of European, African, and Middle Eastern descent, including those of Algerian, Moroccan, Tunisian, Comorian, and Turkish origin.
There are also long-standing Jewish, Greek, and Armenian communities, as well as a significant number of people with roots in other parts of Europe and the Mediterranean.
Marseille is home to Europe’s third largest Jewish community. All these great cultures have been part of Marseille for generations.
They have influenced the city’s culinary and cultural profile in a hugely positive way. And the city’s success is not just societal. It has become an economic powerhouse. And yet it remains a little too gritty for tourists. But this is changing.
Today’s Grand Port Maritime de Marseille is gleaming and confident, competing with Rotterdam to be the leading European super port. In the last two decades, the city, steeped in the marine economy ever since the ancient Greeks established the port, saw the writing on the wall and developed a second port at Fos-sur-mer, about 35km west towards the striking Camargue marshes. These extensive and protected marshes are home to pink flamingoes and the famous wild white horses. Amazingly, they thrive not far from one of the most audacious industrial developments in France.
I’ve seen flamingoes wading within clear sight of huge busy shunting yards, container terminals and power stations.
Tiny Marseille port at Vallon des Auffes
The Port of Marseille-Fos is where the future of the marine economy lies for all to see: there are new railway terminals for exporting cars made as far north as Dieppe and as far south as Spain and Portugal to overseas markets.
There are cruise terminals, steel fabrication firms descended from Eiffel himself and vast serviced areas for the assembly of next generation offshore floating wind turbines. Already home to an extensive Airbus plant, business in Marseille is booming.
There is a mood of optimism and progress which extends across the city itself, not just among the business community. Museums, cultural events, bars and restaurants have popped up as people rediscover the history of Marseille and its unique and very modern Frenchness which is all the more attractive for its diversity.
When you first catch a glimpse of the residential tower block behind the trees on Boulevard Michelet known as l’Unité d’Habitation Cité Radieuse, just down the road from Olympique de Marseille’s Velodrome stadium, it’s like spotting a celebrity super star.
Controversial and contentious, the block of flats created by Le Corbusier immediately after the Second World War is historically significant because of the impact it had worldwide on post-war town planning projects.
The city is home to a variety of districts, each distinct from the other. For a weekender staying in the city or visiting for the day from out of town as we did, staying in nearby Cassis, a must-see is the tiny city port of Vallon des Auffes.
This atmospheric, hidden little fishing port is home to Chez FonFon, the restaurant famous for bouillabaisse, Marseille’s gift to food lovers.
Fonfon appears in the opening scenes of The French Connection which already makes it a destination but if you can book in advance, you’ll be treated to the real bouillabaisse, a fish stew of mythical renown and much praised by generations of restaurant goers. There is also a very good pizzeria, Chez Jeannot, close by with a roof terrace. If you can get a table close to the edge you’ll find yourself sucked into a relaxing vibe of such comfort you’ll find it hard to leave.
Marseille’s bustling food markets, street food (a pan bagnat — huge soft bap filled with tuna, egg and salad and very popular still among Marseillais — will keep you going all day long) and restaurants are as varied as they are good. Bakeries, cafes, bistros and brasseries abound around the Vieux Port but try to go slightly off piste to avoid higher prices.
Bar O Quinze
Places like Bar O Quinze, a minute from the harbour’s edge in Cours Jean Ballard, does simple lunch dishes at very reasonable prices. But beware, don’t ask for pastis or Pernod as a typical French pre-lunch drink: you must ask for a Ricard which is made here!
And the Marseillais not particularly liking the French? When I was there during the Euros last year France happened to be playing Austria. Every local in the bar was supporting Austria because there wasn’t one player from Olympique de Marseille on the national team. France won 1-0.
A more recent visit in mid-July revealed that Marseille’s neighbours, the picturesque ports of Cassis and La Ciotat, are actually very much loved if the number of cars with Paris number plates was anything to go by.
Wanting to be close to Marseille but in a calmer, smaller harbour environment, we found ourselves checking into the modest and plain, almost austere, 70s-built Best Western La Rade hotel in Cassis. Its charms might be discreet, but they are very tangible for those in the know.
Its breakfast dining room and pool deck below overlook the roofs of a few houses and beyond the bay to the magnificent drama of the steep Cassis cliffs and Cap Canaille.
That cute harbour is a four-minute walk down the hill. At first sighting of the harbour that first sunny evening, I thought we had been magically transported to St Tropez.
The same warm, golden colours typical of the small ports of the Cote d’Azur, the narrow two- and three-storey buildings, their shutters and windows open to let the cool breeze in, the cafes and shops below, tables filling up gently with families and friends, all just like those in not-far St Tropez.
Not many venture to this part of the Cote d’Azur for whatever reasons. But I’ll be back to Cassis and Marseille as soon as possible.
Marseille, home of Ricard
Travel factfile
RESTAURANTS
Chez Fonfon, 140 rue du Vallon des Auffes, 13007, Marseille. Tel: 0033 4 9152 1438. For a super traditional bouillabaisse made with just caught fish. Simple, unpretentious and with friendly service.
Café Bovo, 9 rue Beauvau, 13001, Marseille. www.cafebovo.fr. Old school French bistro with classy dishes including homemade linguine with clams and persillade. (Hot tip: go to nearby Bar O Quinze for a pre-dinner Ricard)
Bistro du Panier, 58 rue Caisserie, 13002, Marseille. Tel: 0033 6 1338 0267. In the Panier district on the north side of the Vieux Port. Do not go past their extraordinary burgers.
RESTAURANTS IN CASSIS
There are super posh places like Les Belles Canailles but these three are fabulous and wont bust the budget.
Chez Gilbert, 19 quai des Baux, Cassis 13260. www.chezgilbert.net. Bright, cheerful and unselfconsciously posh, this is the place local families and those in the know visit for bouillabaisse.
Chez Poulette, Place Montmorin, 13260 Cassis. Tel: 0033 4 4271 8039. Quirky, friendly, homey, Poulette herself is there to keep the place ticking over at an unrushed pace. Very interesting Asian fusion touches with spicy snacks.
La Nonna d’Oro, 15 quai Jean Jacques Barthelemy, 13260 Cassis. Tel: 0033 6 9946 5184. Classic, family-run and the best place to enjoy a late dinner (order the seabream) and catch the 14 July fireworks which are famous on the coast for outgunning Marseille.
PLACES TO STAY
New Hotel of Marseille, 71Bd Charles Livon, 13007 Marseille www.new-hotel.com. Chic, informal, modern and funky, the hotel lies behind the stern façade of the former Institut Pasteur. Good sized swimming pool and very reasonably priced with rooms from £130.
Hotel Dieu Intercontinental Marseille. 1 Place Daviel, 13002 Marseille. www.marseille.intercontinental.com. Super grand, extensive and wonderfully located off the north side of the Vieux Port. Elegant cocktail bar and fabulous breakfasts. Rooms from £300 approx.
Hotel La Rade Best Western, 1 Ave des Dardenelles, 13260 Cassis. www.bestwestern-cassis.com. Love the austerity-adjacent simplicity and cleanliness of this 70s built small hotel with sizeable pool and deck. Very short walk down the hill to the harbour. Rooms from £180.