Along the craggy coastline, you’ll find a well-stocked seafood larder, everything from laver seaweed to molluscs, prawns, and edible plantsMy foraged seafood is placed in a cooking pot and paired with Welsh butter and previously foraged wild garlic, rock samphire, and edible flowers (Image: Portia Jones)
‘My dinner is staring at me,’ is not something I expected to say in my adult life, but this is Wales, and things are different here. The meal in question is a velvet swimming crab, Britain’s largest swimming crab, with bodies covered in fine hair and a famously sassy attitude.
This distinctive crustacean has been carefully plucked from a foamy tidal pool on a wide beach near Saundersfoot in South Pembrokeshire. Its stalked, cherry-red eyes swivel wildly, and I swear they lock on me.
I’m collecting crabs for dinner as part of a foraging course on finding Wales’s abundant wild edibles and learning how to prepare and cook them right on the shoreline.
On an immersive coastal foraging experience with Craig Evans (as seen on Mary Berry – Love to Cook), I’m learning that foraging involves finding, gathering, and harvesting wild foods in Wales’ abundant countryside and coast, which brim with wild edibles.
I’m collecting crabs for dinner as part of a foraging course on finding Wales’s abundant wild edibles and learning how to prepare and cook them right on the shoreline.(Image: Portia Jones)
There are plenty of places to forge along the craggy Welsh coast, if you know where to look. In particular, the Pembrokeshire and Carmarthenshire shirelines offer rich mussel beds and other shellfish.
Here, you’ll find a well-stocked seafood larder, everything from laver seaweed to molluscs, prawns, and edible plants. You can also find seafood on rocky beaches in areas like Eryri and along the wider coastline.
As an elder millennial who lives on pricey brunches, I’m not exactly used to being a hunter-gatherer, and naively, I wasn’t expecting eye contact with my entrée. Our jovial foraging guide, Craig Evans, appears unfazed as he inspects our sizeable crab find.
“You’re lucky”, Craig says in a melodic Welsh accent, “you’ve found one with loads of white meat.” Craig should know; since childhood, he’s been expertly scouring the Welsh coast and countryside for wild food for years.
Now 62, he documents his foraging finds on his popular YouTube channel, Coastal Foraging With Craig Evans, and runs coastal foraging experiences year-round along the glorious Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire coastlines.
Craig and Llew traversing the shoreline(Image: Portia Jones )
Under Craig’s enthusiastic and expert guidance, I’m learning more about Pembrokeshire’s robust coastal ecosystem as we walk down a densely brambled trail toward the rhythmic lull of the ocean.
Craig’s classic courses are a great entry point to coastal foraging. You’ll embark on a rockpool safari to gather shellfish, seaweed, and sea vegetables, as Craig expertly explains the rules and regulations of foraging and how to stay safe on the coast.
On his extreme low tide courses, you’re more likely to find crustaceans such as edible crabs and prawns, and if extremely lucky, potentially a lobster.
Fortunate foragers might also encounter a range of marine life to photograph, including soft corals, sponges, species of anemone and sea squirts, as well as kelps and even beautiful Blue-rayed limpets.
Mussels aren’t the only thing to be found on the Welsh coast (Image: Portia Jones )
As we near the shore, Craig won’t say precisely where we’re going, foragers like to keep their favourite spots and methods secret. He’s already issued three ‘redaction’ requests before we set foot on the beach.
I follow Craig and his excitable Golden Retriever Llew (lion in Welsh) out of the prickly trail and onto a sheltered cove that gradually opens into a wide sandy beach.
It’s a very low tide on our secret, shallow-shelved beach today. The sea has retreated far from the shoreline, leaving wave-rippled, shimmering sands and exposed tidal pools brimming with stranded sea creatures.
You can find lots of seafood along the shore(Image: Portia Jones )
‘The lower the tide, the more there is to forage,’ Craig says, clutching a large fishing net. He explains to the assembled group that our mission is to secure crabs, clams, and mussels for a tasty seafood supper before the tide turns.
Craig closely follows the tide patterns for optimal foraging opportunities for his clients. ‘I’m governed by the moon really, like a werewolf,” he says, laughing and taking enormous strides while retriever Llew bounds ahead barking.
As we traverse the shoreline, Craig starts waxing lyrical about his origin story and tells me that he also used to accompany his father to the coast to collect cockles as a child. Thus, he has gained a vast knowledge of marine life and foraging through experience and self-learning.
A coastal haul(Image: Portia Jones )
“Since growing up in the semi-rural Amman Valley on the slopes of the Black Mountains of Carmarthenshire, from a very young age I was taught how to pick wild foods such as mushrooms, blackberries, tickle trout,” he said.
From RAF engineer to banker to expert forager, Craig has certainly had a varied career over the years, but acquiring more knowledge about marine environments and coastal foraging in Wales has remained a constant in his life.
“Throughout my various careers, I have continued researching hidden locations and had great joy in thoroughly learning about our great coastline in west Wales,” he said.
For many years, Craig also kept a saltwater aquarium, where he studied the behaviour of sea life at home. He now passes that learning on through his bookable coastal foraging experiences.
Craig Evans has been scouring the Welsh coast and country for wild foodstuffs, including clams, cockles, oysters, sea vegetables and plants for a long time.(Image: Portia Jones )
“My hope for the future is to educate the wider world about our fantastic coastal environment and promote its conservation, and to inspire people to pass on any knowledge gained down through future generations,” he explains over Llew’s impatient barks. It seems this energetic dog cannot wait to find some edible treats, and luckily, we’ve stopped at a mussel-strewn rock.
Even for amateur foragers like me, mussels are hard to miss. Their distinctive blue-black, oblong shells cling firmly to the rocks. They’re not going to be our afternoon snack without a fight.
We’ve got enough to feed our group(Image: Portia Jones)
What’s interesting, though, is that mussels are more than just an entrée served in a bougie brasserie.
They’re a vital part of the intertidal ecosystem. As ‘filter feeders,’ they help clean up the water, sifting out tiny particles and excess nutrients as the tide rolls in, like nature’s little water purifiers.
Our guide explains that you don’t want to leave too many gaps in the clusters of mussels that cling to the rocks. “The tide can lift them up and wash the rest away if you take too many from one spot,” he said.
Craig tells me that sustainability is key to foraging. You want to collect only the species that are growing in abundance while ensuring that you do no harm to the environment.
You might also spot other creatures in the rockpools!(Image: Portia Jones )
It’s now a race against the tide for our carefully considered picking as the mussels slowly become submerged in the rising waves, swirling and covering the rockpools as the mussels escape our roving fingers and the cooking pot we’ve brought with us.
I fumble across the slippery rocks, trying not to fall into the sea, while Craig yells instructions over the blustery wind. “Don’t take too many from one spot,” he says, pointing to a rich patch of mussels. “The tide’ll pick them up and wash the rest away.”
He adds that sustainability is key. Foraging isn’t about grabbing everything in sight. It’s about taking just enough, keeping the environment intact, and following the rules.
As I gingerly pluck mussels from the rocks, I hear Craig mention that foraging shellfish for personal use is legal in the UK, provided it’s done right. A small relief, no seafood felonies today. Phew!
With our baskets filling up, the sea is creeping in, triggering what Craig jokingly calls his ‘tide anxiety.’ It’s now a race against the water. As the waves start to submerge the mussels, we scramble to grab as many as we can before they’re lost to the rising tide.
We found some prawns!(Image: Portia Jones )
With mussels secured, we shift up the beach to hunt for prawns and crabs. Craig leads us to a rockpool, its edges lined with barnacles and seaweed, with bright red anemones scattered across the rocks. It’s exactly where the tasty prawns like to hang out.
Craig doesn’t miss a beat. Without hesitation, he dips his fishing net under the rocks and pulls out a handful of prawns, as if he’s done this a thousand times before. Which, he probably has by the sounds of it.
As a city girl, I’ve only ever seen prawns in the context of a restaurant surf and turf or a supermarket display.
I wasn’t prepared for how pretty they were. They are sleek, with curlicue tails and tiger-stripe patterns on their translucent shells. They are almost too adorable to cook. Almost.
As I study them, I consider that the beauty of foraging is that it gives you a new perspective on the world around you. It’s not just about gathering food; it’s about learning to appreciate the rich biodiversity that exists all around us.
While common prawns aren’t exactly at risk, it’s still important to practice sustainable foraging. Craig’s approach is all about being mindful of the environment, and that ethos is essential if we want these ecosystems to thrive.
Found some clams!(Image: Portia Jones )
It seems that oraging has absolutely exploded in the UK, especially in Wales. From the windswept coastlines to the dense forests and wide-open fields, foraging is in vogue.
What used to be a niche activity for those in the know has turned into a foodie trend that’s even been incorporated into the menus of many bougie restaurants. For the latest restaurant news and reviews, sign up to our food and drink newsletter here
Courses on foraging are popping up everywhere. Some are focused on the culinary side, teaching you how to find and prepare everything from wild herbs to coastal shellfish.
Others dive deeper into the more technical aspects of foraging, like identifying edible mushrooms or learning how to harvest wild berries without risking a run-in with something toxic and ending up in A&E.
Foraging experiences and even special forage feasts have become popular in Wales(Image: Portia Jones )
For many curious souls, it’s become a way to reconnect with nature, to get out of the city and into the wild spaces where food grows in abundance.
But it’s not just about the search, it’s also about the knowledge. Foragers are now getting serious about sustainability, ensuring that we’re picking only what’s in abundance and leaving enough behind to regenerate for the future.
Back on the unnamed beach in Wales (I can tell you it’s near Saundersfoot), our basket was bursting with an impressive haul, including mussels, prawns, clams, and swimming crabs. So, we headed to a pebbled cove to prep our coastal cuisine and begin our well-earned ocean-to-plate feast.
Prepare the fire!(Image: Portia Jones )
Crouching down, we scrub the mussels clean and wash the prawns in fresh seawater as Craig prepares a ‘Solva Stove’ – a specially cut log of wood used for zero-waste outdoor cooking.
Our carefully prepped haul is placed in a cooking pot and paired with Welsh butter and previously foraged wild garlic, rock samphire, and edible flowers that provide a photogenic colour pop.
A beautiful seaside supper (Image: Portia Jones )
As the steel pot sizzles over the crackling, fiery log, Craig explains food safety and that he only collects fresh shellfish from clean water areas to ensure they’re safe for human consumption. ‘Temperature kills everything,’ he says while checking our fragrant stew.
The mussels pop open as the pot simmers over the wood fire, releasing delicate, sweet juices. Prawns tenderise and blush with pink hues, and the dull browns of the crabs shift to vibrant shades of orange and red. Dinner is finally ready, and we’re starving.
Look at our beautiful ocean feast (Image: Portia Jones)
Soon, we had overflowing bowls of freshly cooked mussels, prawns, crabs and clams, the salty coastal flavours hitting our tongues as waves rolled in and greedy gulls circled above.
Mindful of the incoming tide, we quickly wash our pots and pans and pack up, leaving no trace of our foraging exploits. The waves are already washing away our footprints, ready to reset the table with another coastal bounty.
Need to KnowI’ve now cooked on the beach a few times, I love it. (Image: Portia Jones )
The Legalities of Coastal Foraging
Foraging for wild food, including shellfish, is legal in the UK, but there are important rules to follow. You can gather for personal consumption, but commercial harvesting (taking more than you can use) is strictly regulated, so always check the local laws and guidelines.
When it comes to mussels, crabs, and prawns, it’s crucial to ensure they’re not from protected areas and that you’re only collecting species in abundant supply.
Always look up local restrictions before you set off on a foraging adventure. Some beaches have specific closed seasons or bans to protect marine life.
If you’re heading to a particular spot in Wales, Craig, for instance, sticks to areas that are known for their abundance of food and low environmental impact. That means if you’re foraging with him, you’re in safe hands.
Foraging Responsibly
Sustainability is key. Foragers are stewards of the land and sea, so always take only what you need. Here’s how to forage responsibly:
- Harvest only in abundance: Leave enough behind to regenerate the species, and make sure you’re not stripping the area bare.
- Follow local guidelines: Learn about any protected species and be sure you’re not harvesting endangered or vulnerable creatures.
- Be mindful of wildlife: While foraging, don’t disturb nests, plants, or habitats. Stick to areas where your activities won’t harm wildlife.
- Leave no trace: If you’re collecting, make sure you leave the environment as you found it, no litter, no broken plants, and certainly no plastic.
How to Cook Mussels
Mussels are probably the easiest to forage and are incredibly easy to cook if you follow a few simple steps.
Clean your mussels: Scrub them with a stiff brush under cold running water, removing any barnacles or grit. Discard any that don’t close when tapped; these are likely dead, and you definitely shouldn’t eat them.
Prep the pot: For a classic coastal dish, throw the cleaned mussels into a pot with a splash of white wine, some garlic, a bit of butter, and a handful of wild herbs or foraged seaweed. A little chopped onion and a squeeze of lemon also won’t go amiss.
Steam them: Put the lid on and let the mussels steam over medium-high heat for about 5–7 minutes. They’ll open up as they cook, releasing their natural juices. Once opened, they’re ready to serve; discard any that remain closed.
Serve: If you’re going full rustic, scoop them out and drizzle with that beautiful broth, then serve with a hunk of bread to mop up all the salty deliciousness.
How to Book a Coastal Foraging Experience with Craig
If you’re ready to dive in and discover the best of coastal foraging for yourself, Craig Evans is the one to guide you.
He runs year-round foraging experiences along the stunning Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire coastlines, and offers various courses tailored to different interests and skill levels.
To book a course or get more details, visit his website.