Only a select few have ever eaten here and I am the latest
Paul McAuley is a Senior Life Reporter for the Liverpool ECHO, focusing on communities from all walks of life who make the city so diverse and rich.
From new restaurant openings to cultural events, Paul specialises in covering everything that’s going on across the city.
Moving from Ireland, Paul studied journalism at Liverpool John Moores University before joining the ECHO in the summer of 2021. You can reach him on Twitter or his email.
The Italian Caprese sandwich (£8.95) and chips combination (£3.95)
When it comes to dining establishments these days, folks typically depend on recommendations from mates, word-of-mouth suggestions or TripAdvisor reviews. However, I recently popped into one where this wasn’t the situation at all – chiefly because only a handful of people have ever dined there. It’s noon and I’m sitting down to an £8.95 Italian Caprese sandwich.
Just another standard Wednesday lunchtime, it would seem. Except it’s not. My ECHO colleagues have been replaced by “radicals and free thinkers”, and my trusty Tesco meal deal has been swapped for something a bit different.
I am sitting inside one of the city’s “best kept secrets”. Hidden in plain sight above arguably Liverpool’s busiest shopping street, directly opposite Primark, sits The Athenaeum.
Members having lunch at The Athenaeum Club at the open table – a table any member can join to get to know others
The members-only club is nothing new. It has existed since 1797, and yet only a select group of people have ever set foot inside the historic building on Church Alley.
The club has just shy of 500 members and is currently in the middle of trying to reposition itself as a welcoming space for younger generations. With this in mind, I was invited down to experience the club, and, subsequently its eatery, for myself.
Sitting in the club’s newsroom, it was clear that aged 25, I was more than a few decades younger than most of my dining companions. At The Athenaeum daily publications are supplied, members can eat and socialise, they host events including drinks receptions, weddings, meetings, and conferences.
The Athenaeum prides itself on welcoming “entrepreneurs, successful corporate executives and decision makers” from across the region.
Roy Boardman, general manager at The Athenaeum Club, previously was the CEO of Sefton’s Palm House and Speke Hall
General Roy Boardman, 66, argues it is a “home away from home” for those who want to visit the institution to work and meet with their networks.
But most people only have access to the latter opportunities, including the restaurant, after coughing up, in some cases, over £1,000 for membership.
Depending on age, members, referred to as proprietors with shares, can pay anything between £324.50 and £1,045 to be part of The Anthenaeum. That being said, The Athenaeum’s menu prices aren’t too far off your high street restaurants.
The particular week I visited, back in August, there was a weekly special menu running. On the menu were lemon and Cajun spiced chicken breast (£18.95), roast red pepper and Jerusalem artichoke tartlet (£18.95), fish and chips (£18.95), and spring onion and fennel cous cous salad (14.95).
The Athenaeum Club’s beautiful staircase
As mentioned I opted for a fresh sandwich alongside a portion of triple cooked chips priced at £5.95. For lunch, I was joined by Roy as well as fellow members Sophie Rustidge, who lives in Maghull, and her partner Dr Adam Albanese.
The 27-year-old cancer researcher isn’t a member of the club but is allowed to enter because of his relationship with Sophie.
Being a regular essentially allows you to take full advantage of the club’s benefits. This includes dry cleaning, bag dropping, a concierge and a receptionist who goes “the extra mile”.
My food arrived promptly after ordering. However, given the nature of the venue and its secrecy, it’s never going to have queues out the door so I think this is a given for any of the customer tables.
The Anthenaeum meal in question
The sandwich looked impeccable. The club is soaked in history, but the presentation doesn’t live in the past and was very modern. Plating up on a pristine white plate made for a crisp finish, that made the meal look that tad more delicious.
By the time, I got around to eating the meal, between speaking with other members, it was mildly warm but still edible.
The chips had a crunch I can still hear in my head if I focus hard enough and once, I removed the pulpy tomatoes from the brown bread, the sandwich didn’t stand a chance against me nor the roars echoing in my stomach.
I ordered a special cocktail to wash the meal down with. However, needed to call for back-up in the form of a glass of water as the strength of the alcohol hit me like a sucker-punch. Admittingly, I don’t think the cocktail wasn’t made to standard, it just wasn’t for me.
The exterior of private members club The Athenaeum Liverpool
The meal was only the tip of The Athenaeum’s iceberg. There was still much more to discover about the club and the historic building it calls home. It is believed to be one of just two exclusive members’ establishments in Liverpool.
Spanning three storeys, the venue is organised into multiple spaces that provide various dining and entertainment facilities. It also houses a magnificent library containing over 60,000 volumes and collections, including prized pieces such as the 1282 edition of the Magna Carta.
The Committee Room is an impressive boardroom-style space with views over Bluecoat Chambers, while the establishment’s Reading Room hosts presentations and corporate events.