Ever since Meghan Markle—Wallis Simpson 2.0 meets Martha Stewart—launched her cooking and home show, there’s been one ingredient sending guests and reviewers into shock and awe: flower sprinkles.
What are these? Dried flower petals, which Markle claims transport the “ordinary into the magical.” Magical enough that Mindy Kaling, who once made dosas with Kamala Harris, blurted out on an episode where Markle sprinkled them over a frittata: “What? Are you Tinkerbell?”
All very cutesy—and understandably novel for American and British audiences. But to anyone who grew up in India, it feels a little deja vu. Markle sprinkles edible flowers on everything, whether they fit or not—tarts, frittatas, doughnuts, crostini, avocado toast. In the United States, a tiny jar sells for the equivalent of Rs 1,000, neatly aligned with her upcoming As Ever home product line. Marketing genius, yes. But India has been cooking and eating flowers for centuries.
Story continues below this ad
The usual “flower sprinkles” in the West—nasturtiums, marigolds, butterfly pea, roses, pansies, calendula, lavender—are more style than substance. On cakes or in bottles, they’re usually tasteless. In India, however, flowers aren’t just garnish—they’re integral to recipes.
Take dried rose petals: they’ve been used to garnish thandai, kulfi, and desserts across India and the Middle East for ages. I once refused a rosewater-strawberry gin and tonic at a fancy bar—it sounded too much like spiked gulabjal.
But let’s start with a flower cooked and eaten as a delicacy in the South and in Bengal. This is where Mindy Kaling’s parents are from, and I cannot believe she had never heard of people eating flowers before.
Mocha, banana flower, or banana blossoms grow on the base of the stem on which bananas grow. Cleaning them is painstaking: peeling away reddish-purple petals, separating florets, removing covers, discarding stigma, before finally boiling and cooking. These florets are either mixed with spices and made into cutlets or chops, and sometimes, they are simply steamed in banana leaves with mustard. You can make a dry vegetable with it called mochar ghonto.
Banana blossoms, native to Southeast Asia, are among the oldest vegetables cultivated and eaten in India. In Odisha, they’re known as kadali bhanda, and a prized dish is kadali bhanda patua. Similar to the Bengali paturi, the preparation involves mixing cleaned banana flowers with mustard paste, finely sliced potatoes, and soft vegetables like brinjal, all bound together with mustard oil and green chilies. The mixture is then cooked briefly, wrapped in banana leaves, and steamed. In East Bengal, grated coconut is often added, giving the dish a richer texture and flavour.
Story continues below this ad
Another very common ingredient is pumpkin flowers or zucchini flowers. These are bright yellow blossoms, and are eaten across Bengal, Kerala, and the South. In Bengal, they’re stuffed with coconut, dipped in besan, and fried crisp. Elsewhere, they appear in thoran with rice. Each region has a name for them—kumra in Assamese, kashiphal in Hindi, kumpalam in Malayalam, pucani in Tamil, gummadi in Telugu. A true winter treat.
A new rage in India is the small flowers of the basil, ash gourd flower, and aparajita/butterfly Pea. Most of these, especially the butterfly pea, are used to make tea. Hibiscus tea and butterfly pea tea are commonly found in high-end hotels and restaurants, and are believed to be rich in antioxidants, which can aid in weight loss, blood sugar management, and promote healthy hair and skin. I have never really taken to the taste, or the colour (blue tea scares me).
A new rage in India is the small flowers of the basil, ash gourd flower, and aparajita/butterfly Pea. (Photo: Freepik)
Another great delicacy is the sojne phool or moringa flowers. In winter, the moringa plant blossoms with these small white flowers. Shojne phool posto is a preparation of moringa flowers cooked with poppyseed and green chilis. Shojne phool supposedly keeps chicken pox at bay, although I doubt there’s any scientific proof of this. But another delicious preparation is that of shojne phuler chorchori, a vegan dish made with moringa flowers, potato, brinjal and peas. Moringa flowers or shojne phool have a slightly bitter taste, which is why I’m not a fan. But if ever there was a winter delicacy, this is it.
So next time you’re walking through a park in India in winter, don’t forget to stop and smell the moringa––and pick some and immediately head to the kitchen.
Story continues below this ad
Next week, as Durga Puja — Bengal and Bengalis’ most important festival — approaches, I will introduce you to the significance of food in our celebrations.