Here are some of this week’s news and features highlights handpicked by TheIndustry.fashion team.
Marks & Spencer achieves best ever style perception scores as it unveils AW25
I had the good fortune of attending the Marks & Spencer AW25 fashion preview this week and I can tell you the collections look and feel every bit as good and the campaign images (and we all know that isn’t always the case…).
The root and branch overhaul of the M&S fashion offer from fabrication to innovation, fits, finishing and pricing is reaping rewards. The retailer has scored its highest ever style perception awards, according to new data from YouGov and it’s gaining market share everywhere from footwear to nightwear.
If you want some insight into how the retailer turned around its fortunes in fashion, read this report and enjoy the imagery. You may even be tempted to shop. I’ve got a dress waiting for me when I get home…
Lauretta Roberts, Co-founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief.
Designers at Debenhams returns with AW25 collection by Ashish
It was interesting to see the announcement of the return of Designers at Debenhams this week, though I’m not sure when its last designer collaboration actually was.
Ashish Gupta, who designs under the ‘Ashish’ label, was the choice to bring it back, though I must admit I needed to Google who he is. Anyway, he’s apparently known for “signature maximalism”, with loud technicolour oversized faux fur coats and psychedelic printed jersey dresses the order of the day for the new Debenhams line, going on sale on the retailer’s website from 8am on Thursday 9 October.
It will be interesting to see the uptake, as Ashish is following in the footsteps of some pretty big name designers, including Jasper Conran, John Rocha, Matthew Williamson, Henry Holland, Betty Jackson and Jonathan Saunders, who have all created collections “without the designer prices” for Debenhams in the past.
Looking at the Ashish website, which has a striped jumper with ‘Up Yours’ on the front, retailing at £450, and a T-shirt with ‘Wow what a shit show’ on it for £1,445 (yes you read that correctly) at least his Debenhams collection prices, starting at £59, will be affordable to the masses.
Tom Bottomley, Contributing Editor.
Break Archive hit by second heist as luxury resale faces growing threat
Yet another luxury reseller was hit by a heist this week. This time it was Break Archive that was received of thousands of pounds worth of pre-loved and vintage luxury bags by, what I can only assume is an organised gang of criminals.
This is the second time Break Archive has been robbed and others in the sector too have been hit, including Sellier, Phoenix Fashion and Luxe Collective (its robbery forced it into closure).
Where do these stolen bags end up? Have they been stolen to order or will they appear on other resale sites? Probably a bit of both.
This episode just underscores to me the need for fashion brands to take more control of the secondary market for their goods. It’s one thing consumers not knowing if their pre-loved bag is genuine, but they now face the real threat of its being stolen too.
Read our report on the issue here and tell us what you think!
Lauretta Roberts, Co-founder, CEO and Editor in Chief.
LFW SS26: VIN + OMI on their ‘world-first’ textile innovation and striking sustainable showcase
Norfolk-based eco-designers VIN + OMI made a striking return to London Fashion Week with DYSPHORIANA, debuting a “world-first” collaboration with King Charles III.
Unveiled last night, the show delivered a powerful and creative reflection of today’s global mood – exploring the widespread chaos and anarchy, and their social and environmental impacts.
“This collection had a few inspirations. DYSPHORIANA seemed an appropriate choice, given the global unrest – we are walking around in a constant sense of unease,” VIN told TheIndustry.fashion.
Describing the collection in three words, VIN said: “Moody, complex, impactful.” As part of the show, Dame Prue Leith returned to the catwalk for the fourth time, once again joined by Loose Women regular and journalist Jane Moore, as well as eco advocate Jo Wood. Read our show report, with exclusive commentary for Vin on the showcase, innoction and xxxxx.
Sophie Smith, News Editor & Senior Writer.
Parliament debate shines light on need for continued evolution of London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week has kicked off this week but before we took the covers off the catwalk, MPs and industry leaders convened in Parliament to discuss the cultural impact of London Fashion Week.
Part of me was slightly disappointed that they didn’t debate the commercial impact, or at least the potential for it. London Fashion Week is, let’s be honest, the smallest of the big four fashion weeks, but it does have a reputation for being the most creative.
However, I do feel we need to inject more structure and more commercial focus into Fashion Week. It feels as though it is being run for short-term social media buzz rather than long-term financial gain for the brands concerned.
If we’re ever to win back the major international media and the buyers (insofar as they exist now), as well as lure back designers such as Paul Smith and Victoria Beckham, then it needs an overhaul. The new BFC CEO Laura Weir knows this and her initial moves look promising, but let’s not leave it to her alone. This is going to take joined up industry thinking and support.
Lauretta Roberts Co-founder, CEO and Editor in Chief.