Being a restaurateur today takes extraordinary courage and vision. With soaring costs, staffing challenges, and fierce competition, I admire those brave individuals still willing to create exceptional dining experiences for our city.
Mohammed Abbas is exactly that kind of visionary. Fresh from the triumph of his award-winning Cilantro curry house on Leith Walk, he’s transformed the former New Chapter space in Eyre Place into Celestia – a restaurant with genuine ambition to elevate Indian dining in Scotland’s capital to spectacular new heights.
“Building on Cilantro’s success, Celestia Edinburgh offers a more luxurious Indian culinary excellence,” Abbas told me when it opened. Despite facing everything from design complexities to sourcing challenges, he saw each obstacle as an opportunity to refine his concept, brilliantly blending Scottish hospitality with the rich, authentic flavours of Indian cuisine.
I returned to Celestia recently, and here’s what struck me most: this restaurant deserves to be packed every night. The food emerging from that kitchen is nothing short of outstanding, yet the dining room was surprisingly quiet. Edinburgh, we need to wake up to what we have here!
While Abbas originally planned an ambitious tasting menu, current immigration policies have made it impossible for him to bring in the additional skilled chefs needed to execute such elevated concepts. It’s a frustrating reality – young locals often don’t see hospitality as their career path, and building the expertise that Abbas’s team possesses takes years of dedication.
But here’s the exciting part: even with just their à la carte offerings, Celestia is delivering something truly special. Yes, you’ll find familiar favourites like kormas and biryanis, but this is no ordinary curry house. Every dish showcases authentic recipes enhanced with modern culinary techniques, creating genuine excitement on the plate.
Take the Joshilla Murg Tikka – perfectly spiced boneless chicken that sets the bar high from the start. Or the intriguing Murg Malai Parmesan, where chicken breast meets an unexpected marriage of ginger, chilli, cheese, and pepper. Sceptical? Don’t be. The combination works beautifully, especially with those delightful pomegranate seed surprises and an exquisite coriander dip.
Mohammed’s recommendation of the Grilled Green Seabass Calden showcases his kitchen’s versatility – marinated with coriander, ginger, pepper, chilli, and lime-based sauce that transforms simple fish into something memorable. For those who prefer meat, the Hyderabadi Chicken Masala delivers Southern Indian comfort in a rich, complex gravy, perfectly balanced with coriander, peanuts, red chilli, and curry leaves. Spicy enough but not the level of spice to blow your head off, despite declaring two chillis on the menu!
And that Butter Dal! Made with whole black lentils, cooked overnight and finished with churned butter and cream – it’s the kind of dish that converts dal sceptics into devoted fans. Our meal concluded perfectly with shared pistachio ice cream that provided the ideal sweet finale.
Here’s something that particularly impressed me: Abbas listened. When I mentioned the limited wine selection during my April visit, he took that feedback to heart. Now, Celestia boasts a fantastic, well-priced wine list from Terroir – a wine importer based in the Borders that specialises in artisanal wines from passionate small family producers. From aromatic whites that dance with delicate spices to full-bodied reds that stand toe-to-toe with robust tandoori dishes, there’s something for every palate and budget.
Edinburgh, here’s my rallying cry: Celestia may be slightly off the beaten track compared to its bustling sister restaurant on Leith Walk, but that’s exactly why it needs our support now. If you’re local to the area, consider this little gem your neighbourhood treasure – one that deserves your regular custom.
And if you’re not local? Make the journey anyway. For anyone who mourned the loss of Mithas and that elevated Indian dining experience we lost in Leith, Celestia offers exactly what you’ve been missing: warm hospitality, sophisticated flavours, and wines that enhance rather than just accompany the meal.
Let’s not let another exceptional restaurant slip away due to lack of support. Celestia represents the kind of ambitious, quality dining that makes Edinburgh special. It’s time we showed up for it.
Celestia is located at 18 Eyre Place, Edinburgh EH3 5EP. Tel: 0131 287 2914
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