Portia Jones savours the fantastic views of Eryri(Image: WalesOnline)
Autumn is finally here, and while that would have once signalled a quieter time for the Eryri National Park ( Snowdonia ), more people than ever are hitting the trails well into winter. Despite the increased crowds, you can still get some great off-peak deals in B&Bs, guesthouses, and even an upscale hostel that’s very affordable.
And one of my favourite places to stay in Eryri on a budget is The Rocks at Plas Curig Hostel, located in the hiking hotspot of Capel Curig, reports WalesOnline.
I appreciate that you might be sceptical and think hostels are all grotty bunk beds and dodgy shared showers, but Wales is home to some seriously cool hostels that are perfect for budget-savvy travellers who don’t want to fork out a fortune on accommodation or compromise on comfort. Join the North Wales Live Whatsapp community now
The Rocks is the epitome of a budget stay that easily rivals a low-key B&B. This family-run, five-star, dog-friendly mountain hostel has serious flashpacker vibes and is often filled with avid walkers.
This large property was initially built as a private house in 1903. The house was then enlarged into a private hotel in 1928, acquiring the name ‘The Guest House’.
The YHA took over the reins in 1946, and it became Plas Curig YHA hostel. From hotel to now a privately owned luxury hostel, this house is now a must-book stay in the heart of the Eryri National Park.
You’ll find a range of rooms, including four, six, and eight-bed single rooms, as well as private double rooms for two. During our last stay, we opted for a modern double room that cost under £130 for the two of us, making it just £65 per night.
Maybe the room has limited space for large luggage and is what estate agents might call “bijou” and what normal people might call “compact.” However, for under £70 each, it’s a genuine bargain, especially in the pricey National Park area.
Let’s be honest; you’re not checking into a hostel expecting a concierge, Egyptian cotton sheets, and a robe monogrammed with your initials. You’re here for the vibes.
A community-spirited atmosphere fostered by shared kitchens, mismatched mugs, and conversations over wine in the lounge.
Now, I’ve spent my formative years in $3-a-night hostels across the globe, many of which felt more like low-budget hostage situations than accommodations.
Relaxing in the relatively cosy surroundings of The Rocks at Plas Curig Hostel(Image: Portia Jones)
We’re talking dingy 28-bed dorms where the sanitary conditions would alarm the Red Cross; “free breakfast” consisted of three stale crackers, and the ancient dorm beds had a whiff of typhoid. Hostels, where someone called Skye (real name: Brian) played a hand-painted ukulele at me. Seriously.
The Rocks at Plas Curig Hostel, mercifully, is none of those things. It has zero dreamcatchers, barefoot philosophers, or driftwood signs imploring you to “Explore. Dream. Discover.” I mean, in this economy?
It’s bright, breezy and well-maintained. There’s free parking, complimentary WiFi and a clean communal kitchen.
You’ll also find open-plan spaces for gathering with newly acquired friends, where you can compare trail notes over a cheeky glass of wine or roast marshmallows by their outdoor fire pit.
The Rocks also provides a range of traveller and hostel amenities, including a bike store, parking, a small shop, towel hire, and a drying room. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here
For me, the main draw is the location. Here you’re surrounded by 823 square miles of epic mountainous landscape and a 45-minute drive away from the beautiful coastlines of the Llŷn Peninsula and Anglesey.
Just five miles from the hostel is the charming Victorian village of Betws-y-Coed. Artists, travellers, mountaineers and walkers have all been flocking here for centuries for a wellness escape.
You’ll find an abundance of cafes, inns, hotels, restaurants, gift shops, museums, historical bridges and a 14th-century church all centred around a village green and railway station.
Gwydir Forest Park practically wraps itself around Betws-y-Coed, offering a magical mix of serene mountain lakes, woodland paths and frothing waterfalls tumbling through the wild Welsh landscape.
Several trails are located in this area, so download the handy AllTrails app to find your preferred route and enjoy dazzling foliage as you stomp along.
Head off on the two-mile-long Swallow Falls walk to see cascading falls. This often muddy trail winds through the woodland to a viewpoint over the waterfall, where you can get a great view from this side of the river, so don’t forget your camera.
For thrill-seekers, Zip World is a family-friendly adventure hub nestled within a picturesque woodland that looks stunning in autumn.
Here, you can hop aboard the UK’s only alpine coaster and embark on an unforgettable woodland experience as you weave and speed at 25mph through the trees.
The craggy glacial valleys and rugged canyons around Betws-y-Coed are ideal for outdoor adventures in bracing waters.
If you’re after an adrenaline rush, canyoning and gorge walking are an absolute must here. Scramble through river-filled canyons, abseil down cliffs, and even zipline across rivers with an activity provider like Seren Ventures.
Along with its charming Victorian architecture, Betws-y-Coed is also home to Swallow Falls at Ty’n Llwyn – often hailed as North Wales’ most beautiful spot, with a backdrop that could easily be mistaken for a film set.
It’s not just the scenery that’s captivating; the falls are steeped in local folklore, adding an extra layer of charm to this already magical place.
Here, the River Conwy meets three tributaries – the Llugwy, Lledr, and Machno – flowing in from the west, creating a dramatic mix of waterfalls, rapids, and deep, mysterious pools. The natural beauty is absolutely mesmerising.
Rhaeadr Ewynnol (Swallow Falls) are just a 15-minute drive from Betws, and you can park at the Ty’n Llwyn car park in Gwydir Forest Park, which is a starting point for a walking trail to the falls.
Or parking is available in the nearby lay-by on the A5. You can also take the regular Snowdon Sherpa S1 (Betws-y-Coed to Caernarfon ) and T10 (Betws-y-Coed to Bangor ) bus services.
Once you arrive, you’ll see a coin, or card, operated turnstile to access the viewing area for the falls. Entry to the viewing areas is just £2 per person, and they are located just a short walk from the turnstiles.
You’ll likely hear the falls before you see them as the roar of the white water tumbling over the rocks cuts through the peaceful woodland.
If you don’t fancy an epic hike to a waterfall spot, there is a beautiful waterfall near Betws-y-Coed that doesn’t require a three-hour trek to reach it.
If you don’t fancy an epic hike to a waterfall spot, there is a beautiful waterfall near Betws-y-Coed that doesn’t require a three-hour trek to reach it.(Image: Portia Jones)
You can view the falls from timber boardwalks and a footbridge, with platform access in a gently steep gorge. There’s no need for a considerable hike; simply walk to the platforms and start snapping some lovely #fall photos.
The falls consist of multiple cascades, totalling about 42m (138 ft) in height, tumbling over a stepped rocky platform and are the highest continuous waterfall in Wales.
It’s one of the most accessible and beautiful falls in Wales and is well worth a visit this autumn.
Want to hit the mountain trails? On the hostel’s doorstep lies Moel Siabod, a popular hiking location in the National Park.
The mountain reaches a peak of 872m, making it the highest peak in the Moelwynion mountain range. The views from the summit are well worth the hike, as on a clear day, you can see Yr Wyddfa, Glyderau, and the Carneddau ranges.
The revamped Swallow Falls Inn near Betws y Coed(Image: Portia Jones)
At the foot of Caffi Siabod is a great pre-walk stop. Fuel up for those challenging hillside treks with their reasonably priced cooked breakfasts, cakes and a variety of specials. This community cafe also offers practical advice for all your outdoor needs and provides a range of leaflets and information on local walks.
The local bus service, The “Sherpa”, can also connect you to other mountain ranges and picks up and drops off outside the hostel, which takes you into the town of Betws-y-Coed, the Pen-y-Pass car park to walk the Miners and Pyg track up Yr Wyddfa and to an array of other mountains and world-class attractions in Eryri.
The Cwm Idwal walk is a brilliant alternative to Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) if you want a more straightforward, family-friendly day walk in the National Park.
Other budget accommodation options are also available near Capel Currig and Betws-y-Coed if you want to save money on an autumn escape. Y Gwydyr Hotel – Dolwyddelan offers accommodation with a garden, free private parking, a terrace, and a restaurant, located near the mountains.
In Betws, book a stay at the lovely Swallow Falls Hotel just across the road from the waterfalls.
This charming old inn has been welcoming wanderers and locals for over 150 years, and now, after a swanky multi-million-pound makeover, it’s looking better than ever. You’ll find cosy pub vibes, comfy rooms, and laid-back food and drink served all day, every day.
For a rustic stay, Tŷ Gwyn Hotel is a centuries-old coaching inn featuring beamed ceilings and spacious, beautifully appointed bedrooms.
If you fancy something quieter, just a mile out of town, you’ll find Pengwern Country House. Built from beautiful Welsh stone and slate, it overlooks the lush Lledr Valley.
If you prefer your accommodation with a bit more buzz, head over to the Pont-y-Pair Inn. This family-run, traditional inn has 10 luxury en-suite bedrooms and is surrounded by endless hiking and biking trails.
For a more rural stay, the 5-Star Shepherds Hut in Betws y Coed with Mountain View is a lovely, snug base for hiking.
Set in Capel Curig and just 14 km from Yr Wyddfa, the 5 Star Shepherds Hut in Betws-y-Coed with Mountain View offers accommodation with mountain views, free WiFi, and free private parking.