There’s really nothing like an autumn woodland walk to clear the mind and soothe the soul after a busy week at work
I’ve stomped around many forests in Wales searching for solitude and wildlife, and I’m always adding new woodlands to my ‘must-walk list’.(Image: Portia Jones )
I’ve stomped around many forests in Wales searching for solitude and wildlife, and I’m always adding new woodlands to my ‘must-walk list’. After feeling like I’d been to most of the forests around south Wales, my hiking buddy suggested that I try a quiet woodland walk that ends in an epic roast. Sold!
This woodland stroll had the added bonus of being a short drive from my house, as it was located in the Vale of Glamorgan, where you’ll find miles of heritage coastline, waymarked trails, ocean views, and forests.
The walk was conveniently part of the marked and numbered Vale Trails, which take you through coastal and countryside routes with the most scenic views and heritage features. On one fine Sunday, I attempted the Salmon Leaps Walk – ‘Vale Trail 6’-which began in the quiet village of Dinas Powys and led hikers through fields and forests, finishing near an independent bistro.
That’s all well and good, but is it actually a good forest walk? I strapped on my hiking boots, filled my flask, and went to investigate.
Although the route is waymarked, I also discovered a trail using the handy AllTrails app. Alternatives include the Ordnance Survey app or Komoot route planning apps.
I convinced my long-suffering husband to join me for yet another walk instead of having a lie-in, and we hopped in the car and headed towards the Vale.
I love a woodland walk(Image: Portia Jones )
The start point is also easily accessible from Cardiff, offers a shorter loop option, and makes for a great half-day in the Vale of Glamorgan.
Parts of this walk were also featured in The Times in an article detailing ’20 of the UK’s most beautiful woodlands for winter walks’. It’s also a fabulous place for a spring walk, where the forest is covered with wild garlic and bluebells.
The walk begins in Dinas Powys, its name meaning “fort of the provincial place”, a nod to the Iron Age hillfort that still watches over the village. It’s a small Welsh village with a surprising amount of character tucked into its leafy lanes and rolling hills.
The route begins at the Twyn, a historic square at the heart of the community, where Victorian and Edwardian villas rub shoulders with stone cottages and leafy trees add splashes of colour.
From the square, the route heads up Highwalls Road, just to the left of the bus stop, and past the small but striking Ebenezer Church. After the church, a right turn continues your climb along the edge of Dinas Powys Golf Club.
Keep an eye out for waymarkers (Image: Portia Jones )
Keep an eye out for waymarkers here, and keep any dogs on leads; this stretch crosses private land, and the footpath edges close to the golf course.
The paved path gives way to a soft grass track, winding between hedgerows and a stretch of mature trees, before tipping you gently downhill. Two kissing gates later, you’ll reach the start of the glacial valley of Cwm George.
The scenery shifts dramatically as you pass through the third kissing gate and into Cwm George.
This lush, wooded ravine was carved by glacial meltwater at the end of the last Ice Age, leaving behind steep valley walls and thick stands of sycamore and beech.
In winter, the air is crisp, and frost can cling to the remaining leaves. In spring, you’ll be treated to the fragrant smell of wild garlic, and you can even forage some if you do it sustainably.
It’s worth slowing down at this point of the walk as Cwm George is peaceful and ecologically rich, and the dappled light through the canopy creates a wonderful, almost otherworldly atmosphere.
Eventually, the trail meets a quiet lane near the village of Michaelston-le-Pit(Image: Portia Jones )
Eventually, the path levels out near a wooden bench. To your left, a limestone cliff rises dramatically from the valley floor; to your right, the earth mounds and ridges of a lost civilisation emerge from the undergrowth.
At this point, you can take a detour to the Dinas Powys Iron Age Fort, one of the most important archaeological sites of its kind in Wales and possibly in all of Europe.
Occupied continuously from the Iron Age into the Roman and early medieval periods, this wooded hilltop was once a fortified settlement.
Excavations in the 1950s and more recent digs uncovered Roman coins, medieval pottery and Iron Age artefacts, suggesting a site of sustained significance.
You can follow a short path uphill to explore the fort’s earthen banks and get a feel for its elevated position.
The surrounding woodland makes it a lovely place to pause, and if you’re into archaeology or Welsh history, it’s well worth the minor climb.
Once back on the main path, the woodland gradually gives way to open countryside. Continue along the trail with fields to your right until you reach another kissing gate.
The Vale has some brilliant walks (Image: Portia Jones )
The next stretch offers some of the best wide-angle views on the route. It’s here that the path slices through an open pasture, with hedge-lined fields spreading out in both directions.
Eventually, the trail meets a quiet lane near the village of Michaelston-le-Pit, a good point to turn back if you opt for the shorter, three-mile loop.
To continue the five-mile route, leave and walk gently uphill past a picturesque thatched cottage. Look out for the kissing gate on the left, just before a bend in the road. This leads down to Wrinstone Brook and the walk’s dramatic namesake.
Wrinstone Brook is a quiet stream for most of the year, but at this spot, it transforms into a series of cascades known locally as the Salmon Leaps.
Here, a series of low weirs has created step-like falls where, in autumn, salmon can occasionally be seen battling upstream to spawn. Outside of salmon season, it’s a serene place to pause and take a few scenic photos.
It’s a lovely woodland walk(Image: Portia Jones )
The woodland floor widens here, and rushing water mingles with birdsong and the gentle crunch of leaves underfoot.
This is the walk’s halfway point, and it’s perfect for a short break or a picnic if you’ve come prepared. Just remember to take all your rubbish with you.
Continue along the woodland path from the Salmon Leaps until you pass through a kissing gate into an open pasture. Walk straight across the field, heading towards Wrinstone Farm.
The path turns right, then loops sharply back on itself onto a stony track. This section offers dreamy glimpses of the Somerset coast across the channel, especially on clear days.
As you crest the rise, turn right at a metal gate and follow the track downhill through a stretch of peaceful woodland.
You’ll soon find yourself back on the road from Michaelston-le-Pit. Turn right, retracing your steps past the same thatched cottage, which now marks your descent back into the village fringes.
Shortly after passing the cottage, look for a stile on the right. This marks your return route to Dinas Powys.
Cross the small wooden footbridge over the Cadoxton River and follow the stone path uphill. Turn left at the first kissing gate, then head through a field where the views stretch wide and open.
This section runs parallel to the river, and the grassy trail is peaceful and easy underfoot.
As the route continues, cross another stile and pass through several more kissing gates and narrow hedged paths, eventually meeting the main road. A right turn takes you past St Peter’s Church before you arrive at one of Dinas Powys’ oldest and most atmospheric streets.
Heol y Cawl, or Broth Street, is a cobbled lane with 18th-century cottages, once part of the original settlement of Dinas Powys.
From here, it’s a short walk back to the Village Square and the end of your circular route.
Dinas Powys is a lovely village (Image: Portia Jones )
Now you’ve worked up an appetite, why not treat yourself to a lovely Sunday lunch at the Humble Onion? This neighbourhood bistro takes a no-fuss approach to seasonal cooking. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here
Since opening in 2017, Antonio Simone’s cooking has carved out a fine reputation, with dishes including lamb breast with harissa butter bean cassoulet and ox cheek ragu sourdough toastie.
Sunday lunch is made right here, with a choice of mains that includes aged blade of beef, confit pork belly, or lamb breast, all served with crisp duck fat roast potatoes, smooth celeriac purée, confit carrots, buttered seasonal greens, a Yorkshire pudding, and a generous ladle of Mother’s gravy. Lovely stuff.
There’s also a vegetarian option in the form of a mushroom and almond fritter, which comes with all the trimmings too, including braised carrot, Yorkshire pudding and a rich, savoury “mother-in-law’s” gravy.
Walking during the week? Head to The Star, The Cross Inn or The Three Horseshoes in Dinas Powys for food and drink post-walk.
Fancy something less traditional but still delicious? Pop into One o’clock Gate at the back of Dinas Gof Club, where they serve cocktails, coffees, and a stunning, regularly rotating menu of burgers, Asian-infused dishes, and more. Read our review here.
Need to Know
This walk is lovely year-round (Image: Portia Jones )
Length: 5 miles (8 km)
Shorter option: 3-mile loop possible by turning back near Michaelston-le-Pit
Time: Around 2–2.5 hours, with time to explore the fort and stop for breaks
Start/Finish: The Village Square (Twyn), Dinas Powys
Postcode for Sat Nav: CF64 4DE
Terrain: Well-marked paths; mostly gentle with a few light climbs and stony tracks
Map: OS Explorer 151 Cardiff and Bridgend
Parking: Limited roadside parking near the Village Square