I’ll admit it, I’ve got to an age where I love a jaunt to a lovely market town for coffee and cake, boutique shops and picturesque walks.This article contains affiliate links, we will receive a commission on any sales we generate from it. Learn more
Imagine my delight when I found a new market town to visit, one that promised a mountain walk on its doorstep, proper pubs, and an independent bookshop.(Image: Crown Copyright Visit Wales )
I’ll admit it, I’ve got to an age where I love a jaunt to a lovely market town for coffee and cake, boutique shops and picturesque walks. Sundays used to be for raging hangovers and existential dread, but now, I rise early and plan days out where there are ‘nice tea shops’. Nineteen-year-old me is judging so hard.
Imagine my delight when I found a new market town to visit, one that promised a mountain walk on its doorstep, proper pubs, and an independent bookshop. Be still, my beating heart. Crickhowell is a charming market town in the Usk Valley, lying south of the Black Mountains and near the eastern range of Bannau Brycheiniog.
It’s not just the locals who adore it; even the celebs can’t resist. Carol Vorderman herself recently popped into the dog-friendly Coaching Inn, The Bear, after a hike and couldn’t resist telling the world about it on Instagram.
Naturally, if it’s good enough for Vorders, it’s good enough for me, so I started plotting my own adventure. Luckily, my hiking group (yes, I’m that person now) had a trip planned to this charming corner of Wales, so I leapt at the chance to stretch my legs and snoop around one of the Sunday Times’ so-called “best places to live.”
According to the paper, Crickhowell made the list thanks to its perfect mix of scenery, strong community spirit, and enviable quality of life.
Crickhowell is a charming market town in the Usk Valley, lying south of the Black Mountains and near the eastern range of Bannau Brycheiniog.(Image: Crown Copyright Visit Wales)
While there are plenty of shops and cafes these days, Crickhowell’s roots go way back, all the way to the Iron Age, when settlers built a hillfort atop Crug Hywel (better known as Table Mountain, thanks to its satisfyingly flat top). Later, the Normans rolled in and added a motte-and-bailey castle, the remains of which still keep watch over the small town.
Want to make a weekend of it? There are also plenty of cosy pubs in and around the town and the Black Mountains, like the Bear Hotel and the Dragon Inn. For a self-catering stay, Holiday Cottages has a whole host of lovely places to bunk down for the night.
With over 100 hand-picked holiday cottages, you can pick the perfect spot for your trip. They have a brilliant range of places, like a cosy hideaway for two, a family-friendly home, or a grand mansion that sleeps up to 19 for a big group getaway.
For hikers, one of the main draws of Crickhowell is that it’s an ideal base for countless walks into the surrounding hills and mountains.
From here, you can head up Table Mountain, amble along the Brecon and Monmouth Canal, explore the Llangattock escarpment, or follow the River Usk through the Glanusk Estate.
For hikers, one of the main draws of Crickhowell is that it’s an ideal base for countless walks into the surrounding hills and mountains.(Image: Daily Mirror)
Nearby peaks like Sugar Loaf, Allt yr Esgair, and Tor y Foel are all within easy reach and if you’re feeling ambitious, Pen y Fan, the highest summit in southern Britain, is just a short drive away.
The town’s Walkers are Welcome team has helpfully compiled a collection of routes from gentle strolls to heart-pounding hikes, all packaged into handy booklets available at the information centre or online.
Luckily for me, I had come with the competent We Hike Wales crew, and so we assembled to tackle one of the most accessible routes from the town centre – (Crug Hywel) Table Mountain.
You can park in town, follow your hiking leaders or a trail on the AllTrails app, and strut through glorious countryside to reach the flat-topped summit, which features an ancient Iron Age hill fort and panoramic views.
There are several hiking routes from Crickhowell to Table Mountain, ranging from direct paths to longer circular routes that incorporate other peaks(Image: Portia Jones )
From down in Crickhowell, Table Mountain looks like it’s had one too many at the pub, leaning ever so slightly, but still wildly photogenic.
There are several hiking routes from Crickhowell to Table Mountain, ranging from direct paths to longer circular routes that incorporate other peaks. Some routes offer a straightforward ascent, while others include longer walks along the ridges of the Black Mountains.
After a lot of car parking faff and several pre-emptive dashes to the nearest loo, our hiking group finally set off on what Visit Brecon Beacons charmingly calls a “grade 4” walk – i.e., narrow paths, steep climbs, and enough mud and loose stones to remind you why you own hiking boots.
We followed a leafy path beside Cumbeth Brook until the trees gave way to an open hillside, and we were ambling along at a pleasant pace.
There are several hiking routes from Crickhowell to Table Mountain, ranging from direct paths to longer circular routes that incorporate other peaks.(Image: Portia Jones )
Soon we were skirting along the mountain wall toward the back of the ancient hillfort that crowns the top of Crug Hywel, or “Hywel’s fort,” which, fun fact, gave Crickhowell its name. Up here, you can still see the traces of the Iron Age defences, and there are plenty of spots to get a decent #MountainQueen selfie.
Below stretches the wide Usk Valley, rolling towards Mynydd Llangatwg and, beyond that, the South Wales valleys. It’s an incredible view and worth pausing for a brew.
After a big hike, it was time to explore the cutesy town and sample some coffee and cake. In 2018, Crickhowell’s High Street was crowned the Best High Street in the UK, and it’s easy to see why. It’s full of indie boutiques, historic-looking pubs, and an outdoor shop, Crickhowell Adventure, for all your hiking needs.
Webbs of Crickhowell has been part of the town’s story for nearly a century; it first opened its doors back in 1936! This family-owned department store has truly stood the test of time.
Pop in and you’ll find everything from stylish clothing to handy household goods, all with a delightful touch of local history woven in.
In 2018, Crickhowell’s High Street was crowned the Best High Street in the UK(Image: Portia Jones )
Food-wise, you’ll be spoiled for choice with a range of indie ventures like Court Room Cafe in the market hall and Latte Da. This Shabby chic vintage-style cafe serves breakfasts, lunches, and traditional afternoon teas. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here
There’s something heartwarming about seeing such a variety of indie businesses all in one place, from an old furniture shop to a bakery and the cafe-bookshop of my dreams.
With the motto ‘Books, conversation, and more’, Book-ish was founded in 2010 by Emma & Drew Corfield-Walters and began as a small venture, driven by a love of books. It’s also an award-winning literary haven, having bagged the Independent Bookshop of the Year in Wales several times.
The competition celebrates bookshops that have really become part of the community. In November 2021, the Crickhowell community proved just how beloved the shop is by raising more than £25,000 in a week to help save it, with a big donation from Welsh icon Michael Sheen.
Owner, Emma Corfield-Walters, spoke to WalesOnline at that time: “It has been really heartening for me and my team to know that there is so much love for us,” she said. “To have had that acknowledgement and so many messages.
We’ve always tried to make sure Book.ish is at the centre of this community. I think this is confirmation for us that people know what we’re trying to achieve in the community and in the shop, and it’s great to know they don’t want that to go anywhere.”
The store has a children’s reading room, the Snug, an in-house event venue, the Loft, and a cafe that sells local produce from the Beacons. Firmly part of the community, Book-ish holds book clubs, game nights, and quizzes and co-runs the Crickhowell literary festival.
The moment I stepped inside, I knew I’d found reading heaven.(Image: Portia Jones )
The moment I stepped inside, I knew I’d found reading heaven. This indie shop had it all, shelves bursting with curated books, handwritten staff picks that read like love notes to literature, a selection of gifts and charming cards. There was even an events program that made me want to move in and never leave.
The on-site cafe is spread over two floors and incorporates a light and airy loft, perfect for a brew and a book. The focus is on local produce here, with Welsh cakes and Bara Brith supplied locally by Baked by Natalie and a changing rota of cakes provided by Cake Head.
I ordered a flat white and managed to snag the last caramel and chocolate brownie, which was utterly divine.
Coffee comes from Black Mountain Roast in Hay-on-Wye, an award-winning local roaster. All food is prepared fresh, and many of the meats are from Cashells, a family-run butcher in Crickhowell, and Black Mountain Smokery supplies smoked salmon.
I ordered a flat white and managed to snag the last caramel and chocolate brownie, which was utterly divine.(Image: Portia Jones )
For a cosy pint, head to the Bear. This 15th-century hotel in Powys has attracted stars such as Carol Vorderman, Robbie Williams, and Johnny Depp and was named inn of the year in The Good Pub Guide.
The Bear is right up there among the cosiest, most welcoming pubs in the country. A former coaching inn that has been welcoming guests for 500 years, it offers a choice of dining in the historic bar, with its oak beams, wooden floors, and roaring open fires, or in the restaurant.
Either way, you’ll be happy. The bar menu has a range of tasty dishes, including slow beer-braised short rib of Welsh beef, vegan burgers, and homemade lasagne.
The Bear Hotel(Image: The Bear Hotel)
The Historic Dragon Inn is another top spot for a proper pub visit. This family-run, Visit Wales 4-star inn sits right on Crickhowell’s charming High Street. Expect a warm Welsh welcome, hearty food made with care, and a fantastic selection of beers, wines, and spirits.
Microbrewery and taproom Antur Brew Co is worth a visit for its quality craft beers, which range from hoppy pours to German ale styles and lagers.
Antur also hosts buzzing tap room pop-ups every weekend with a rotating range of food trucks, including Malaysian street-style curries and BBQ eats.