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Over in the parallel universe that is TikTok, the term ‘facial collapse’ is all the rage to describe what we previously knew as ‘ageing’.
This has been spurred by young-ish types for whom Ozempic weight loss has meant speeded up sinking, slumping and sagging. The choosing between your face and backside axiom has never felt more apt.
The disaster-movie terminology may be new, but we midlifers and beyond are only too familiar with the situation. In our forties, the protein collagen will have diminished to the point where skin loses its springiness.
Around 50 and further, our bones are shrinking, our teeth shifting. The scaffolding on which our features depend is resetting itself and we may not entirely appreciate the results.
When I inadvertently lost a stone last year, it accelerated a certain subsidence. Hollows appeared beneath each cheek, my jawline looked ever more vague, the vertical strip down the centre of my throat turning crepey.
I developed etchings-cum-protrusions under the corner of each lip. I didn’t run for the hills screaming ‘collapse!’, but it was striking enough to mention to aesthetic doctor Michael Prager when we crossed paths.
Stickler that Dr P is for never being trigger-happy with his injections, he made me wait a year before doing anything about this, telling me I’d put the weight back on. I haven’t as yet, so he’s finally propped up my face a bit.
First, I had my annual Botox injections, which Prager uses not to freeze areas, but to restore youthful structure, focussing on the lower face, jaw and neck. The toxin lifts and firms as it reduces muscle activity (from £700, drmichaelprager.com).
When Hannah Betts inadvertently lost a stone last year, she says it accelerated a certain subsidence. Hollows appeared beneath each cheek and her jawline looked ever-more vague
Next, he deployed the filler Juvederm. He chooses this brand because its hyaluronic acid base is a naturally occurring substance within the body. It gives smooth results and – most importantly – is safely tried and tested, having been in use for 20 years.
Crude practitioners use filler’s volumising effects to exaggerate features such as lips or cheeks. Prager uses it to buoy up facial architecture – re-scaffold, if you like. He uses a cannula to inject, the blunt tip and flexibility of which can glide beneath the skin dispensing a thin, absorbable layer, rather than the bloated dollops born of the rigid needles of clumsier aestheticians.
Ten years ago, after I dropped weight giving up booze, Prager inserted a cannula diagonally up and along my cheekbone to
contour. This time, he angled it along the side of my face, going under the muscle to raise it – what I’m terming the ‘Prager facelift’ (from £849). Not cheap, but unlike Botox, filler lasts. Perhaps, in time he might do something to hoist the droop about my mouth (a ‘Prager misery eliminator,’ perhaps?)
But, this may be enough. I’m not looking for radical transformation. I merely desire a little light gravity-defying that will increase with time as the filler stimulates collagen production. Readers may roll their eyes at my mention of Dr Prager because he’s always my authority for these matters. Instead, read this as the vote of confidence it is.
There’s a reason I’ve been seeing this chap for almost 20 years. His approach is skilled, subtle – the best. If Prager didn’t exist, I wouldn’t be injecting anything because this stuff can make people look a great deal worse. What fellow voice of reason, Dr Wassim Taktouk (from £595, drwassimtaktouk.com), refers to as ‘stealth fillers – where they are used to replace age-related volume loss, not overly enhance facial features’ are the sane approach. He uses Teoxane, also hyaluronic acid-based.
Besides, I may only be a doctor’s daughter, but even I can interpret many of the press releases I get sent about ‘tweakments’ as lies, damn lies. This week, I received a cracker informing me that salmon sperm injections ‘support cellular regeneration in the facial bones’. On what planet? I’ll be sticking with a doctor I trust.
And, if you’re not keen to put anything into your face, then I’ll still be here weekly to suggest other means of uplift. Forget collapse angst. Let’s focus on continuing restoration in which being happy to be alive prevails.
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ShopRace You To It
Morphe’s new Cheek Thrills Multi-Finish Face Trio (£19, selfridges.com) is billed as blush. Still, the tawnier of its seven shades have proved to be sell-outs, suggesting buyers are enjoying it as blusher-cum-bronzer. It’s a seriously potent pigment in a satiny cream, luminous balm and velvet powder for a contemporary, skin-like finish.
In 2023, Boots’ Future Renew Serum became the UK’s biggest-ever beauty launch after being proven to have damage-combating results.
Three weeks ago came a second serum to be used alongside it: Boots No 7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Night Serum (£35.95 for 25ml).
The science behind it is chronobiology – supercharging the renewal that our skin is designed to do at night.
Results are impressive. In trials, 100 per cent of testers saw signs of damage reversal, under-eye wrinkles included.
I confess, I wasn’t a fan of the original serum. But, this follow- up I like and have been using it on its own.
My skin has a lovely, healthy, robustness come morning.
My Icon of the week
Elizabeth Hurley
The actress will turn 60 in June and has been steadfastly applying Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum (£75.65 for 50ml, boots.com) for three decades. She adds: ‘I’ll moisturise my face about six times a day, my neck about ten times.’ She also loves Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge (£27.20) and Lip Gloss (from £22.95, both boots.com), and body brushes religiously.