Edinburgh’s pubs have always been more than watering holes: from the Oxford Bar, where Rebus broods into his pint, to the Hawes Inn, where Stevenson once lured the hero of Kidnapped towards his fate, the city’s boozers come steeped in plotlines and pipe smoke. This is a capital that prefers its pints with a side of atmosphere — low-lit, wood-panelled, slightly conspiratorial. Behind those creaking doors you’ll find storytellers and scholars, students and the occasional lost tourist who meant to climb Arthur’s Seat. Here, Peter Irvine picks the pubs that prove Auld Reekie still does character — and characters — better than most.
1. The Guildford Arms
The Guildford Arms, where locals and tourists happily mix
Same block as Café Royal, in the same family since 1896. A lofty, ornate Victorian hostelry including a dazzling rococo plaster ceiling. Loadsa good ales, typically six Scottish, including Cromarty, Orkney and Loch Lomond Brewery, plus three guests (and 16 wines by the glass). There are some you won’t find anywhere else in the city. Pub grub available on the “gallery” floor as well as the bar. Tourists and locals mingle.
Details 1 West Register Street, guildfordarms.com
2. Café Royal 
Café Royal oozes Victorian/baroque elegance
Behind the Apple shop at the east end of Princes Street, one of Edinburgh’s longest-celebrated pubs. Unrelated to the London version, though there is a similar Victorian/baroque elegance. Through the partition is the Oyster Bar. Central counter and often standing room only.
Details 19 West Register Street, caferoyaledinburgh.com
3. The Royal Oak
The Royal Oak is a pocket-sized Edinburgh gem
ALAMY
Tiny upstairs and not much bigger down. During the day pensioners sip their pints, downstairs “lounge” the Wee Folk Club (Sun evenings). Mainly known as a folk-music stronghold (live music every night for 50 years), tourists are amazed (and welcome). They definitely don’t make ’em like this any more. Gold-carat pubness
Details 1 Infirmary Street, royal-oak-folk.com
4. The Holyrood 9A
Round the corner at the bottom of St Mary’s Street towards the parliament building, a surprisingly bustling beer and burger den, with impressive selections of both. Food is prepared in the tiniest kitchen somewhere downstairs and served in the packed backroom or bar itself. Huge range of draught beers but also wines by the glass. An all-round good pub.
Details 9a Holyrood Road, theholyrood.co.uk
5. The Jolly Judge
The Jolly Judge is an award-winning, indie haven for top-notch cask ales
ALAMY
Near the castle, the tourists go past with no idea that one of the best drinking pubs in the capital is a few metres away on Lawnmarket. Camra’s best Edinburgh pub in 2023 and 2024 it has carefully selected cask ales, beers and ciders (also scooping multiple awards). Indy-owned and 500 miles from Wetherspoons.
Details 7, James Court, jollyjudge.co.uk
6. The Bow Bar
The Bow Bar is an award-winning Victoria Street staple
ALAMY
Halfway down Victoria Street, they know how to treat drink — and drinkers of drink — in this excellent, award-winning wee bar. Traditional selection of six keg ales, eight casks, many bottles and top for whiskies (over 430 malts) — no cocktails! One of the few places in the Grassmarket area an over 30-year-old might not feel out of place. Pie ’n’ pint at lunch.
Details 80 West Bow, thebowbar.co.uk
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7. Mathers Bar
Mathers Bar is an unpolished West End classic that refuses to modernise
ALAMY
Worth visiting just to look at the ornate fixtures and fittings — frieze and bar especially. Unreconstructed in every sense since 1903. Men quietly drinking (even some women these days). Pies all day. More than 100 malts. Alongside many smart bars in the West End, a stand-up, stand-alone place for old-fashioned pubbery, slack coiffeur and idle banter. No website, naturally.
Details 1 Queensferry Street
8. Sandy Bell’s 
Scotch eggs, pies and the fiddle set the tone in this storied snug
ALAMY
Near the university and Greyfriars Kirk; it seems like it’s been there as long. Renowned as a folky/traditional music haven (live seven nights a week), it reeks (though the smoke has gone) of atmos (it should be given a dispensation). Scotch eggs, pies and the fiddle.
Details 25 Forrest Road, sandybells.com
9. Blue Blazer
No frills, no pretensions, just wooden fixtures and fittings and all sorts in this fine howff that carries a huge range of real ales. Regularly voted pub of the year. Extraordinary rum and gin list and then there’s the malts. Much more soul than its competitors nearby. Fun darts and lucky dip games offering discounts on food and drink.
Details 2 Spittal Street, facebook.com/blueblazeredin
10. Oxford Bar 
The Oxford Bar is a no-nonsense institution with a few real ales and crisps or nuts if you’re hungry
ALAMY
Downhill from George Street. No time machine needed — just step in the door and find one of Edinburgh’s most celebrated non-reconstructed bars. Inspector Rebus wuz here. Be prepared to be scrutinised when you come in. Some real ales but they’re beside the point. No accoutrements — food menu is crisps or nuts.
Details 8 Young Street
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11. Kay’s Bar
This characterful bolthole on Jamaica Street is 150 years old
ALAMY
Tucked away in a corner of the New Town, a true original — oak casks, Kay’s Bar jugs, a real fire. They say “150 years of excellence” (it was originally a spirit merchants until about 50 years back), and care for the beer and do a bit of grub at lunchtime (anything that goes with HP Sauce, like mince and tatties). Four screens but rugby rules — though they show the footie if it doesn’t clash.
Details 39 Jamaica Street, kaysbar.uk
12. Star Bar 
This memorabilia‑lined den combines music and banter with a garden and serious table football
Tucked away in a New Town alley, this ineffably cool, eclectic bar has been a music/bevvy and banter hangout (put together by Stevie, the manager, his pic is on the wall among masses of memorabilia) for more than 20 years now with a new lease of Gen Z life under Bella (the vibe) and Charles (the biz). Full of friendly all-sorts. Serious table footie brigade, surprising garden, supposedly cursed skull in the basement.
Details 1 Northumberland Place, instagram.com/starbar_edin
13. The Magnum
Chris Graham’s relaxed and reliable gastropub on the corner of Dublin Street is the civilised East Village watering hole with eats, it’s in my ’hood; bar and raised dining area. Small plates and à la carte menu hit all the right notes, from haggis (bonbons) to venison and gnocchi. Piotr Dzierlega is the accomplished head chef. Some outside tables squeezed into the New Town corner.
Details 1 Albany Street, themagnumrestaurant.co.uk
14. Cumberland Bar 
This leafy‑back‑court local draws suits, students and seasoned sippers
After work this New Town bar attracts its share of suits, but locals (and droves of posh students) claim it too. Long a Camra redoubt, but now, as well as eight real-ale taps, there’s an impressive selection of lagers and ciders on tap and bottles aplenty. Nicely appointed, decent pub food (including the Sunday roast) and an unexpected beer garden.
Details 1-3 Cumberland Street, cumberlandbar.co.uk
15. Hector’s 
This distinctive Stockbridge destination is part of the neighbourhood furniture
On the corner of Stockbridge’s main street and Raeburn Place. A Mitchells & Butlers pub but long a distinctive Stockbridge destination for craft beers, bottled beers, all-day pub grub and Sunday lunch.
Details 47-49 Deanhaugh Street, hectorsstockbridge.co.uk
16. St Bernard’s Bar
This individually run pub is a celebration of music — the vinyl version. The owner Hugo’s collection (more than 1,000), continuously added to by donation, is the soundtrack (both up and downstairs) as selected by the bar staff. Two comfy, cosy rooms and a library upstairs. Fresh flowers on the table. Cask ales, IPA and cocktails. It is unique.
Details 10 Raeburn Place, instagram.com/stbernardsbar
17. The Scran & Scallie 
The Stockbridge gastropub from Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack offers seasonal Scottish plates in a convivial setting
MARC MILLAR
A joint venture between the top chefs Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack. This is a Stockbridge gastropub with top cooking in a convivial and casual ambience — as the name suggests. Scottish, seasonal and local throughout the menu (many couthy Scots references: “Yer starters”). It’s not cheap, mind. Daytime is child-friendly.
Details 1 Comely Bank Road, scranandscallie.com
18. The Orchard
The Orchard serves classic pub food made with real care
Chris Douglas’s airy pub near the botanic gardens, over the Water of Leith from Canonmills corner. Short distance down from busy Broughton Street and all its restaurants, this is worth the detour. Everything a good food pub should be, with a classic menu (especially steak pie and fish’n’chips), a conscientious chef in Pavel Herko and attentive staff.
Details 1-2 Howard Place, theorchardbar.co.uk
Leith/Portobello19. Leith Depot
Leith Depot is always buzzing with real community spirit
An important independent music community bar on a block near the foot of Leith Walk that was saved from a controversial redevelopment. A people place, with Leith-brewed beers and next door its own music venue with grassroots bands from here and abroad, jam sessions and good craic.
Details 138-142 Leith Walk, leithdepot.com
20. Port o’ Leith
Legendary Leith bar on the busy road to what used to be the docks. Perhaps not what it was when Mary Moriarty was madame, but some aura remains. Always good music. It’s still a port in the storm for a’ sorts — with famously good pies and quiz nights on Thursdays.
Details 58 Constitution Street, facebook.com/theportoleithbar
21. Roseleaf 
Roseleaf offers homemade dishes, afternoon tea and family‑friendly warmth
On the corner of Quayside between the Shore and the busy Commercial Street. Jonny and Lyn’s Roseleaf sees itself as a “cosy wee hidden treasure” and they’re not wrong (though that may have changed having featured in Netflix’s US hit Somebody Feed Phil). Food is the thing here with everything homemade, including an afternoon tea (best pre-order). Small it is and perfectly formed. Kid-friendly.
Details 23/24 Sandport Place, roseleaf.co.uk
22. The King’s Wark 
On the quayside, this snug classic pairs old‑town looks with modern plates
ALAMY
Woody, candlelit, stone-walled and comfortable — a gastropub on a corner and on the quay. Bar and bistro dining room. Pub-food classics, the rooms are traditional and dark rather than pale, light and modern. Scottish slant on the big menu from a small kitchen, with excellent fish, including its beloved beer-batter haddock and chips. Mellis cheeses. Many gins.
Details 36 Shore, thekingswarkpub.com
23. Teuchters Landing 
This waterside Leith pub is a former ferry waiting room, offering mugs of stovies and more than 260 whiskies.
Reliably ambient Leith pub eaterie in a former ferry waiting room, with waterside tables spread over adjacent pontoons (they can take a couple of hundred people out there). Mugs of prawns and stovies in half or full-pint portions and many “boards”. Great wine list — 20 by the glass — plus more than 260 whiskies.
Details 1c Dock Place, teuchtersbar.co.uk
24. The Shore 
The Shore is a cosy, fire-warmed Leith favourite with quayside views
ALAMY
A long time on this shore but here is the reassuringly reliable repast of less-expensive Leith foodland. Run by people from Fishers next door, with a similar friendly ambience but more pubby, less fishy. Real fire and large windows looking out to the quayside, strewn with bods on summer nights. Mod-Brit menu in the cosy-in-winter woody bar, live music every Saturday, the restaurant is quieter.
Details 3 Shore, fishersrestaurants.co.uk
25. Portobello Tap
Big busy, modern pub for real people (same goes for its sister pub, the Old Eastway Tap on Easter Road). Live music, 18 draught lines, two cask ales and eight regularly changing craft beers on tap (including from its own brewery in Eskbank, though this currently up for sale). Great eclectic pub with street food, outside terrace and beer garden with Porty Shack burger bar.
Details 87 Portobello High Street, portobellotap.co.uk
26. The Espy 
With sand and sea views, this coastal crowd‑pleaser is Porty to the core
The original place for pub grub on the promenade of Portobello beach, given a recent makeover, with a new look celebrating its seaside heritage, plus new menus, guest ales and regular events, including quiz nights, themed cocktail evenings and seasonal specials. Views of the sea and beach. Usually full (the pub and these days the prom).
Details 62-64 Bath Street, facebook.com/people/the-espy
South 27. Cloisters 
Cloisters is a laid-back Tollcross sanctuary for drinkers and anyone looking for a good burger
ALAMY
A drinker’s paradise in the old All Saints Parsonage in Tollcross, from the same folk who own the Bow Bar, above. Plenty of taps, dozens of whiskies and many wines by the glass in this simple and unfussy bar with wooden floors and a laid-back approach. Good, pragmatic pub grub — many burgers. Ten kegs, five rotate. No music — this is a pub for drink and talk.
Details 26 Brougham Street, cloistersbar.com
28. Bennets Bar
Bennets Bar is a theatrical Victorian classic by the King’s Theatre, rich in stained glass and whisky
ALAMY
Next to the King’s Theatre, an Edinburgh standby since 1839. Same era as Café Royal and similar ambience, stained glass, mirrors and tiles. Kitchen closed — shame. Used to do good pub lunches, but plans afoot to reopen. Cask ales, more than 150 whiskies, new cocktails each week.
Details 8 Leven Street, bennetsbar.co.uk
29. Summerhall
Summerhall’s bar sits in the courtyard of the former Royal (Dick) Vet College, drawing creatives for drinks
CAT THOMSON
Close to the Meadows, a bar in the corner of the central courtyard of the extraordinary independent art and cultural hub. Formerly the Royal (Dick) Veterinary College, the bar draws creative types, a place where anything feels possible. Indoors and tables out.
Details 1 Summerhall, summerhall.co.uk
30. The Fountain
At last, a place to eat and hang out in Fountainbridge. Mix’n’match vibe. Daily menu and à la carte. Homemade grub, some tables on the street. Nice people come here. Sunday lunch. And great with kids (even till 10pm). Pub quiz on Sunday.
Details 131 Dundee Street, fountainbar.co.uk
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31. The Diggers 
The Diggers has award-winning pies, 22 taps and more than 500 whiskies
Officially the Athletic Arms, but everyone’s called it the Diggers since the time gravediggers would stop in for a pint en route between two neighbouring graveyards. This is the Jambo (Hearts FC) pub par excellence, stowed with the Tynecastle faithful before/after games. A great pint of locally brewed The Diggers 80/- and six guest ales. Award-winning pies, more than 500 whiskies, 22 taps. A great snug.
Details 1-3 Angle Park Terrace, athleticarms.co.uk
32. Roseburn Bar
On the main Glasgow road heading out west from Haymarket and one of the nearest pubs to Murrayfield Stadium. Wood and grandeur and red leather; bonnie wee snug with leather booths. A fine pint and wall-to-wall rugby, of course. Heaving and heaven before internationals.
Details 1 Roseburn Terrace, roseburnbar.co.uk
33. Montpeliers 
Montpeliers anchors Bruntsfield with all‑day dining, Sunday roasts, DJs and prime people‑watching tables
They call it Montpeliers of Bruntsfield and it is almost an institution south of the Meadows. Buzzy, noisy (same owners and similar vibe as Rabble on Frederick Street). From breakfast menu to late supper, they’ve thought of everything. All the contemporary faves. Sunday roasts. Good people-watching from outside tables, DJ at weekends.
Details 159-161 Bruntsfield Place, montpeliersedinburgh.co.uk
34. Canny Man’s
Four miles south of the centre, this family fiefdom turns Sunday lunch into an art form
An idiosyncratic, historic Morningside hostelry in a labyrinth of snug, atmospheric rooms, four miles from the city centre. Since 1871 a true, original gastropub. Carries a myriad of malts (250 plus) and a serious wine list. There is a smorrebrod menu (more than 50 variants of the open sandwiches), an à la carte, starters, seafood and desserts with Luca’s ice cream. A top Sunday lunch. Clubby and civilised, this much-loved family fiefdom is one of the city’s most convivial pubs.
Details 237 Morningside Road, cannymans.co.uk
35. The Sheep Heid Inn
The Sheep Heid Inn is said to be Scotland’s oldest surviving pub
ALAMY
A Duddingston inn dating from the 18th century, less than four miles from the city centre, behind Arthur’s Seat and reached most easily through Holyrood Park. They say it’s Scotland’s oldest surviving pub. Village and nearby wildfowl loch should be strolled around if you have time. Food in atmospheric rooms and in a suntrap inner courtyard (also comfy dining upstairs). Authenticity and history is why we come. Food served all day (book weekends). It’s got a bowling alley for parties.
Details 43-45 The Causeway, thesheepheidedinburgh.co.uk
Taken from Scotland the Best by Peter Irvine (HarperCollins, £17.99). Or buy from timesbookshop.co.uk. Discount for Times+ members