The epicurean eatery of London’s Nessa Soho rises on the corner of Brewer Street like a gastronomic haven disguised as a neighbourhood rendezvous, woven seamlessly into the rhythm of its hip chic neighbourhood with its warm glow spilling softly onto the pavement, and hinting at the kind of culinary escapism waiting just beyond its doors. Inside, the space feels effortlessly curated, all honeyed oak and soft amber light revealing a room that hums with a quiet confidence, and a subtle electricity that has always defined Soho nights. Inspired by the area’s colourful past and named for Vanessa Bell of the Bloomsbury Group, Nessa captures a spirit of creativity and conversation, the sort of place where dinner has a habit of blending into long, indulgent hours filled with stories, laughter and plates that arrive with a stylish ease.
At the centre of this energy is executive chef Tom Cenci, a culinary storyteller whose journey began as a teenager stepping shyly into the Michelin-starred kitchen at Cliveden House. Something ignited there, a pull toward the heat and rhythm of service and after formal training at the Academy of Culinary Arts, Tom had moved through London’s most respected kitchens with a quiet determination that shaped his signature style. He learned precision at 1 Lombard Street under Herbert Berger, expanded his horizons in Paris at Laurent with Joël Robuchon, and returned to London to refine his creativity at Noble Rot and Duck and Waffle, where modern British cooking became a language he could finally call his own.
Nessa Soho is located on the corner of Brewer Street
That language finds its clearest voice at Nessa. Tom’s food is distinctly British yet unafraid of mischief, filled with nostalgia and innovation in equal measure. His coronation chicken arrives glistening with tandoori warmth, paired with wild rice and apricot purée that melt together in a harmony that feels both familiar and refreshingly bold, not to neglect his iconic open fire signatures of melt on first mouthful grass fed sirloin cuts, finished with a light charcoal edge. Vegetables also take centre stage as confidently as meat and fish, each plate carrying the imprint of seasonality and sincere partnerships with local British producers.
It took almost no convincing to disappear into Soho for a lingering luncheon afternoon of delectable dishes arrived in a tone that felt almost melodic, each one revealing another layer of Tom’s craft of meaty tender mushroom ravioli, golden crisp croquettes flowing with molten Montgomery’s Cheddar and of course, a ruby tinted Cosmopolitan cocktail as we debated on Soho’s infectious vibrant energy, the quiet joys of simple ingredients and open flame fever.
Tell us a little about yourself and your amazing culinary journey that has gotten you to where you are today?
I’m currently the executive chef at Maslow’s, where I oversee multiple restaurants across London. My culinary journey has taken me from Michelin-starred kitchens to traditional British pubs, working throughout the UK and beyond. What’s always driven me is a deep respect for British produce and the seasons. I’ve learned that the best cooking starts with exceptional ingredients, whether it’s heritage vegetables from East Anglia, day-boat fish from Cornwall, or rare-breed meats from Yorkshire. My approach is all about celebrating what’s at its peak, working closely with farmers and foragers to bring the very best of British produce to the plate.
Nessa celebrates modern British cuisine, while adding its own twist. Image credit: Justin De Souza
Your love affair with the kitchen began in the regal stunner of Cliveden House, it must have been a pretty incredible feeling starting your voyage in a Michelin Star restaurant that too, in your teenage years!
Would you say this experience was the main driving force in you wanting to do in the chef’s hat?
100 per cent yes, I had a passion for cooking from an early age and had the opportunity to work at Cliveden Hotel through school work experience, they then offered me an apprenticeship, and I fell in love with cooking whilst working there, I’ve never looked back.
You have had some incredible global journeys from two Michelin star restaurants in Paris to luxury boutique hotels in Canada, was the end goal always to return back to the UK shores?
I wouldn’t say I had an end goal, I was very lucky to be able to use the line of work as a means of travel and it managed to take me around the world, seeing and using the locality of produce. It varied so much from each place I worked and taught me to appreciate what the local farms and producers have to offer which I now use in my cooking today.
Describe the delicious menu at Nessa, Soho?
The menu at Nessa is a celebration of modern British cuisine, our menu changes with the seasons showcasing the best of British produce. We work closely with local farmers and suppliers to bring traditional British flavours into a contemporary setting. Everything honours British culinary heritage while adding a creative, modern twist.
The aged beef tartare is a popular dish from Nessa’s menu
Does there tend to be a typical day in the kitchen?
There’s no such thing as a typical day in the kitchen! Every service brings its own rhythm and challenges. Mornings start with prep and getting our mise en place ready. Once service begins, it’s all hands on deck. The energy is intense but incredibly rewarding. We thrive on the unpredictability and the creativity it demands from us daily.
The open flame concept seems to literally be on fire these days, what would you say makes Nessa stand out from the crowd?
While the open flame is experiencing a well-deserved revival, what sets Nessa apart is our commitment to honouring tradition while pushing boundaries. We’re not afraid to reimagine classics, our Soho location gives us access to an adventurous dining crowd, and we use that to our advantage by balancing the familiar comfort of British favourites.
Any personal “ you can’t leave without trying this” dishes you swear by?
Absolutely! Our celeriac carbonara, it’s a play on what we call the a ‘British Carbonara’ that you find in the ready meal section of a supermarket, but we elevate it obviously with a bacon cream sauce, Spenwood cheese, confit egg yolk and truffle, also don’t leave without trying our sticky toffee pudding either, it’s the perfect ending to any meal.
The celeriac carbonara is an elevated version of a ‘British Carbonara’ ready meal
Nessa, Yasmin and Mortimer House Kitchen, the menus are all incredibly unique from each other, would you say they are all a strong reflection of their shared W1 postcode as well as to diners tastebuds?
Each venue has its own distinct personality, but they all share a commitment to quality, creativity, and a sense of place within W1. The postcode brings a certain energy and expectation, whether it’s the British refinement at Nessa, the Turkish influences at Yasmin, or the Italian comfort at Mortimer House Kitchen, each menu stays true to its own culinary identity.
Do you feel London as a whole and its culinary world has progressed over the years?
London’s culinary scene has transformed dramatically over the years. What was once seen as a city with limited gastronomic appeal has evolved into one of the world’s most exciting food destinations. The diversity is unmatched, you can find authentic cuisine from every corner of the globe, alongside a renewed appreciation for British cooking.
What would you highlight as your biggest achievement and most difficult challenge during your chef career?
It’s hard to pinpoint one moment but being awarded the 29th best restaurant in the UK at the National Restaurant Awards was a great honour whilst at Duck and Waffle, it was also one the hardest jobs I have ever done running a 24-hour restaurant that was on top of a skyscraper.
Nessa serves breakfast on weekdays and brunch on the weekends
How would you describe your favourite cooking style outside the restaurants at home?
In the restaurant I always try to be as original as possible and think of dishes that hopefully aren’t done elsewhere; as soon as I see a trend that everyone starts to copy, I try to make sure I’m doing something different. When at home I do the opposite and can cook things like smash burgers.
What would you do if you weren’t a chef?
Cooking still, to quote the great Luke Combs, ‘I’d still be doin’ this if I wasn’t doin’ this’.
Finally! Any words of wisdom you could spare and share to other aspiring chefs?
Work hard and be passionate. There are very few people in this world that don’t have to work so you may as well do something you enjoy and It’s all about the experience. So many young chefs fresh out of college have never even worked in a kitchen before and are entirely unaware of how a professional kitchen works. Most of the top places would welcome them with open arms if they were just to ask.
Factbox
Address: 86 Brewer St, London, W1F 9UB
Telephone: 0207 337 7404
Website: nessasoho.com
All imagery unless stated otherwise credit: Nessa