He nods to Jean-Georges, open from breakfast and then all day onwards; he points out the Coburg, which is busy from morning coffees and doesn’t quieten till the last of the Scotch drinkers have had their fill from the whisky trolley that does the rounds. The Grill, first opened in 1955 but refreshed, refurbished and reopened in 2022, is perfect for those who visit often. “The menu changes frequently, it has a lot of specials, a catch of the day. And I find it sensory; the smells, the wood, the panelling. It’s a weird thing but with the materials used, it’s luxury but it’s still a little raw. You feel nature.” I nod to a sign; isn’t he forgetting something? “Ah, yes, we’re certified to serve authentic Kobe beef,” he says. “Not an easy process. At first we were only permitted to serve chuck steak — chuck! In the Connaught! Imagine — but we’ve worked our way up, and now serve rib-eye.”
