One of the UK’s most renowned chefs, Rick Stein, has a single restaurant in the capital – and I decided to put its cuisine to the test.
Christopher Sharp Trendswatch Reporter
09:00, 22 Dec 2025
Christopher Sharp sitting at a table in Rick Stein’s restaurant in London(Image: Christopher Sharp)
Rick Stein, one of the UK’s most renowned chefs, may not have the same London footprint as fellow culinary giants like Gordon Ramsay. But he does own a single, highly esteemed restaurant situated on the banks of the River Thames in Barnes.
With the festive season in full swing I decided to try their Christmas set menu and determine if this Padstow icon’s cuisine lives up to its acclaim.
Following my standard review structure, I evaluated the main course, dessert, and accompanying wine (or non-alcoholic alternative for those behind the wheel).
Upon stepping into the warmly illuminated restaurant, we were welcomed by the calming melodies of a pianist and escorted to our table by the window, offering a delightful view over the Thames where we observed rowers training under the night sky.
Christopher’s main(Image: Christopher Sharp)
Of all the restaurants I’ve had the pleasure of critiquing this year, this one unquestionably provided the best view, even amidst the darkness. I can only envision how coveted these tables would be during the summer months.
For my main, it seemed only appropriate to select fish at a Rick Stein establishment. I opted for the braised fillet of haddock with chestnut mushrooms and roasted chestnuts from the set menu.
The festive set menu is priced at £44 for two courses or £50 for three. Interestingly, my dining partner, who chose not to go for the Christmas menu, ended up with a smaller bill at the end of the evening.
Christopher’s pudding(Image: Christopher Sharp)
The haddock was served in generous portions and enhanced with the inclusion of mushrooms, chestnuts, and a complementary sauce. The well-spiced dish was accompanied by a full-bodied white burgundy that provided sweet notes on the finish, resulting in a harmonious pairing.
For dessert, I opted for the simply titled Yule Log. This festive favourite is typically a Swiss roll cake filled with cream and shaped into a log. But the version I received, while sizeable, was devoid of cream.
It wasn’t a significant issue, but the dessert felt rather dense and more akin to a supermarket purchase than a meticulously prepared pudding. It wasn’t unpalatable, just unexpectedly disappointing. Fortunately, the potent, revitalising mint tea I ordered with the dessert helped to offset some of the richness.
The exterior of Rick Stein’s Mortlake restaurant(Image: Christopher Sharp)
In summary, Rick Stein’s sole London establishment is overall a praiseworthy restaurant. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, and the key fish dishes certainly live up to the reputation they carry.
The service on the evening we dined was efficient and attentive, barring a minor dessert-related mishap. Based on the overall experience, it’s certainly worth a second visit and would be an excellent choice for a dinner date.
As for the food itself, the fish dish was a success, but the yule log failed to ignite my taste buds. If I were to summarise the experience in three words, they would be: homely, relaxed, and premium.