Blending history, culture and culinary discovery…
Barcelona may be one of Europe’s most visited cities, but in the opening episode of Spain with Michael Portillo, the broadcaster sets out to prove there is still plenty to discover far from the well-trodden tourist routes.
Launching a brand-new eight-part series on 5, Michael begins his journey into Secret Spain by revisiting what he calls one of the country’s “worst-kept secrets” — yet quickly reveals a side of the Catalan capital that many visitors never see.
His exploration starts in the Gràcia district, at Casa Vicens, an extraordinary house designed more than 140 years ago by Barcelona’s most famous son, Antoni Gaudí. As Gaudí’s first major commission, the building laid the foundations for his later, more flamboyant masterpieces — but unlike the Sagrada Família or Park Güell, it remains refreshingly free of long queues.
Just a short walk away, Michael slips into a much-loved local bar to uncover one of Barcelona’s quieter pleasures: its rich vermouth culture. Here, he discovers how the fortified wine has become a social ritual for locals, enjoyed slowly and sociably, far removed from the city’s party-city reputation.
As the sun sinks behind the dramatic Montserrat Mountain, Michael heads to the Sants neighbourhood, where he joins locals celebrating the annual Festa Major. Amid the music and dancing, he learns a traditional Catalan dance before bravely taking part in a human tower — a breathtaking tradition where teamwork and balance are everything, and a single misstep could bring the whole structure crashing down.
The following day, Michael ventures into the atmospheric Gothic Quarter in search of a cobbler still hand-making espadrilles as they have done for more than 80 years. Once worn by figures such as Pope John Paul II and Salvador Dalí, the humble shoe has a surprisingly glamorous history — and Michael even has a go at designing his own eye-catching pair.
He also shares his insider tip for experiencing Barcelona’s most famous landmark, Gaudí’s Sagrada Família, without the dreaded queues, before being fitted for a shirt at his hotel — once the headquarters of the city’s cotton textile foundation, dating back to the era when Barcelona was known as the Catalan Manchester.
Michael rounds off his visit with a feast in one of the city’s hidden neighbourhood food markets, sampling local delicacies including botifarra sausages, tripe stew and Barcelona’s take on surf-and-turf, all washed down with glasses of chilled cava.
Blending history, culture and culinary discovery, Spain with Michael Portillo promises a fresh perspective on a familiar destination — and this opening episode sets the tone for a journey that’s as insightful as it is indulgent.
Spain with Michael Portillo begins Thursday 8 January at 8pm on Channel 5