People are always looking to find out the pick of the bunch
Located at the crossroads in mid Wales it is a hugely underrated spot(Image: Rhayader 2000)
Regular readers will know I’m not exactly subtle about my fondness for Welsh market towns. Give me a selection of proper pubs, independent shops, and quirky cafes selling local produce and decent coffee and I’m as happy as a clam in cheap chardonnay.
I’ve clocked up a fair few market towns across Wales and people constantly ask me which one’s my favourite. It’s a difficult question when the country is basically wall-to-wall charm but after much serious thought, mostly conducted in pubs, I have an answer.
Rhayader. Always Rhayader. The place I keep going back to and bang on about to anyone unlucky enough to ask for recommendations. I’ll yap on for hours!
Located at the crossroads in mid Wales this is a hugely underrated spot that, despite having so much to offer, I think doesn’t get the attention it deserves.
Home to the spectacular dams and reservoirs of the Elan and Claerwen Valleys I think Rhayader is one of the best market towns in Wales and is worthy of an extended stop while travelling the A470.
Rhayader is one of my favourite market towns in Wales(Image: Portia Jones)
This community-focused market town is an ideal hub for biking, hiking, wildlife-watching, and chilling out with mates in proper pubs.
Rhayader has long been a mid Wales hub for weary travellers, serving as a staging post for drovers and those travelling the long route from London to Aberystwyth.
Today it’s known as the gateway to the Elan Valley and is just outside the vast estate. It’s a convenient base with several independent shops, cafes, and pubs and also positions itself as the ‘outdoors capital of Wales’.
Pub-wise you’ll be spoiled for choice in Rhayader as there are a surprising number of decent boozers for a relatively small town, which is one of the many reasons it tops my market town list.
For an epic Sunday lunch head to The Crown for generous portions of meat and vegetables and Yorkshire pudding. It’s Sunday lunch just like Mam makes it – fuss-free, filling, and with boatloads of gravy. You definitely won’t go home hungry.
Historic Triangle is a gorgeous 16th-century drover’s inn located a short stroll away in Cwmdauddwr. Here you’ll find a roaring fire, real cask ales on tap, and homemade food including several pub classics.
The Lamb and Flag is another good spot for ales, traditional bar meals, and Sunday carveries while the bright green Elan Hotel’s bar has a decent selection of drinks.
For an epic Sunday lunch head to The Crown for generous portions of meat and veg(Image: Portia Jones )
Swing by The Lost Arc for lunch and coffee in this kooky community cafe. Definitely order my favourite – a tasty Welsh rarebit comprising toasted bread smothered in warm mature cheddar, Welsh ale, and a smidge of laverbread and mustard. It is honestly heaven on a plate and I dare you to find a better one in Wales. If you do then tell me – I’m always keen for a banging rarebit.
They also have coffee, cakes, light lunches, and plenty of vegan eats to choose from if you don’t want a god-tier Welsh classic.
By night this hip establishment transforms into a live music venue showcasing emerging acts and hosting popular pizza nights.
Fish and chips at the Triangle Inn in Rhayader(Image: Portia Jones )
The Old Swan Tea Rooms is a traditional family-run tea room and cake shop offering a lovely spot for homemade pasties, cakes, and lunches. Try their incredibly moreish chicken curry made from a family recipe.
If you’re after a cracking caffeine fix in Rhayader swing by Narrative Coffee, the new kid on the high street, which is already making waves and winning rave reviews.
This swish little spot recently made it to the finals of the UK Coffee Masters in London, which is no small feat, and the team is buzzing to be recognised as one of the top places for speciality coffee in Wales. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here.
I love visiting this town(Image: Portia Jones )
Along with pubs Rhayader is also a lovely place for shopping at indie and boutique shops. On the main drag you’ll find a compact shopping area where you can browse a selection of antiques, local crafts, prints, pottery, upcycled clothing, and local souvenirs.
One of the more uncommon shopping options here is Hafod Hardware – a retro, family-run hardware store that has been open since 1895.
Alongside typical DIY items and kitchenware you can also pick up vintage-style tourism prints of Wales, specially-made Elan Valley mugs, and chocolate bars that make for ideal gifts.
Quillies is worth a visit for its lush locally-made crafts including pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass. Get your retail fix at family-run No8 Clothing where you’ll find men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, accessories, and gifts.
Two floors stock well-known brands including Joules, Brakeburn, Seasalt, Soya Concept, Mistral, Joe Browns, Wrangler, Pachamama, Jellycat, and Powder.
River Wood is the only gallery-bookshop in the UK dedicated solely to wildlife and wild places and is packed with original paintings, prints, cards, and books. Upstairs is a working artist’s studio and space for creative workshops.
Gift shops sell locally-made crafts including pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass(Image: Portia Jones )
For decent outdoor gear Hill Walking offers a decent variety of clothing, boots, and accessories from brands like Urban Road, Game, Regatta, Trespass, and Craghoppers. These brands are all suited to walking in Wales’ wildly unpredictable weather conditions.
Outside of the town there are plenty of activities and outdoor adventures to keep you busy. Rhayader is the gateway to the spectacular Elan Valley where the estate’s Victorian dams are found among the undulating green hills.
Built more than 100 years ago to supply water to a heavily urbanised and thirsty Birmingham these distinctive gravity dams are a major draw for photographers who come to snap the cascading waters.
The story of the Elan Valley begins in the late 19th century when Birmingham, an urban hub at the height of the Industrial Revolution, was undergoing rapid expansion.
The city needed a clean, reliable water source and, after much searching, engineers set their sights on the remote Elan Valley. With its high rainfall and steep, narrow landscape the valley was the perfect location for a chain of reservoirs.
Four main dams were constructed in the Elan Valley: Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch(Image: Portia Jones)
In 1892 work began on one of the most ambitious water-supply projects of its time. More than 3,000 workers were brought in to build dams, reservoirs, and aqueducts by hand, assisted by steam-powered machinery. By the time the project was completed in 1904 the Elan Valley had undergone a significant transformation.
Four main dams were constructed – Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch. Each dam is an engineering marvel, built from local stone and designed to blend seamlessly into the landscape.
The Caban Coch Dam, for example, appears to be a natural cliff face from a distance yet up close its sheer size and the sound of water cascading over its edge are nothing short of awe-inspiring.
The reservoirs themselves, vast and deep bodies of water, reflect the surrounding hills and sky, creating a picture-perfect spot.
Pen-y-Garreg is just one of several Victorian dams in the hugely underrated Elan Valley Estate(Image: Portia Jones )
You can pick up a map of the estate from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre and staff are also happy to advise on scenic routes to see the dams.
The best time to take a slow drive around the estate is after heavy rainfall (not exactly a difficult feat in Wales) when reservoir water spills over the steep ‘Birmingham Baroque’-style structures.
Want to be guided by a local expert? You can book a bespoke tour of the Elan Valley and the Cambrian Mountains area with Cambrian Safaris and find all the hidden corners with a local expert.
One of the best ways to explore Elan Valley is to stroll or cycle along the Elan Valley Trail. This 13-mile (21km) path follows the route of the old railway that brought materials to the valley during the dam’s construction. Today a well-maintained trail winds through some of the valley’s most scenic spots.
Starting in the small village of Cwmdeuddwr, just west of Rhayader, you’ll follow the old Birmingham Corporation Railway line, perfectly positioned to show off Elan’s best Victorian dams.
The linear trail is mostly flat, with a few inclines and tarmacked stretches, making it ideal for cyclists of all abilities, including older kids.
And if you want to give your legs a bit of extra help you can always hire an E-bike in Rhayader – after all who says you can’t cruise through the valley in style?
One of the best ways to explore Elan Valley is by strolling or cycling along the Elan Valley Trail(Image: Portia Jones)
If you aren’t bringing your own bike you can rent a push bike or an E-bike from either Neil’s Wheels or Clive Powell Mountain Bikes. The trail should take around three hours so renting a bike for half a day should give you plenty of time for photo stops and coffee breaks.
The route climbs 165ft from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre and passes the impressive Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu reservoirs. When they are full millions of gallons of water cascade over the historic 120ft-high dam walls of Cabin Coch.
Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water owns the nearby Elan Estate although a more significant part is vested in the Elan Valley Trust. While the estate’s principal function is providing a clean water supply it also serves as a carefully-managed beauty spot for curious visitors.
More than 80% of the valley is designated a site of special scientific interest (SSSI), rich in wildlife and remarkable landscapes.
Thanks to its diverse habitats and careful management the Elan Valley is a haven for a wide range of wildlife. The valley’s woodlands, moorlands, and wetlands provide habitats for a diverse range of species including birds, mammals, insects, and plants.
The open moorland serves as a hunting ground for birds of prey with red kites, buzzards, and, occasionally peregrine falcons soaring high above.
Catch the sunset over one of the five main dams you can visit in the area(Image: Joe Daniel Price)
To get a closer look at the resident red kites head to Gigrin Farm, which is famous for its red kite feeding. Located half a mile from Rhayader hundreds of red kites feed here and it’s the best place in the UK to see and photograph hundreds of wild red kites (including rare leucistic red kites).
Small-scale cattle-keeping is also a crucial part of farming in Elan Valley. Today only a handful of farms continue this practice. Keep an eye out and you’ll see cattle grazing extensively on the open hills and in some enclosed habitats.
The Elan Valley’s flora is just as impressive. Dense woodlands are home to ancient oaks and the moorlands are covered in a carpet of heather, bilberry, and mosses.
In the spring and summer the valley’s meadows burst into life with wildflowers, adding a splash of colour to the landscape.
Did you know that Rhayader and the Elan Valley are home to some of the darkest, clearest, and most unpolluted skies in the world?
With its 45,000 acres of protected land the Elan Valley has led this movement since achieving International Dark Sky Park status in 2015, becoming the first privately owned, publicly accessible park in the world to do so.
The Elan Valley has one of the darkest, clearest, and most unpolluted skies in the world(Image: Portia Jones / Dafydd Wyn Morgan )
This special status now means the Elan Valley is protected from light pollution and provides a sanctuary for the abundant wildlife and nature found here on the estate.
Since its dark-sky designation the Elan Valley has become recognised as one of the top stargazing destinations in the world and has featured in many stargazing guides, talks, and books.
But what does that mean for stargazers? In simple terms it means minimal light pollution and skies so clear that you can see the Milky Way, meteor showers, and even the faint glow of neighbouring galaxies with the naked eye.
The valley’s remote location and thoughtful conservation efforts make it a standout spot for those seeking a deeper connection with the cosmos.
Here you’ll find several prime locations for stargazing.
I’ve chased the clear celestial skies all over Wales(Image: Portia Jones / Dafydd Wyn Morgan )
- Craig Goch Dam Car Park: This popular spot offers wide-open views making it ideal for seeing the Milky Way or setting up for long-exposure photography.
- Claerwen Dam: Known for its dramatic backdrop this site combines the grandeur of Victorian engineering with the infinite beauty of the stars above.
- Teifi Pools: Remote and serene these pools reflect the starlight, creating a mesmerising experience.
- Pont ar Elan: Easily accessible yet wonderfully secluded it’s a fantastic spot to gaze at constellations or catch a meteor shower.
Bring a red-light torch to preserve your night vision and allow your eyes 20 minutes to adjust to the darkness for the full experience.
For a more interactive experience look out for organised stargazing events in the area to connect with the cosmos or try your hand at astrophotography.
The Elan Valley Trust and Dark Sky Wales regularly host guided tours and workshops that offer expert insights and telescope access.
For dark sky events check the Elan Valley’s What’s On webpage, Facebook (ElanValley), and Instagram (@elanvalley).
Where to stay
Mid Wales Holiday Lets is a great shout(Image: Portia Jones )
Mid Wales Holiday Lets
These reasonably-priced holiday lets can sleep up to 44 people and Glandwr House, Afonwy House, The Old Drapers, The Bakehouse, and The Cwtch are all available.
The handsome red-brick converted townhouses are perfect for groups of friends or families travelling together in the Elan Valley area.
They are also well equipped for cyclists offering secure bike storage to keep your gear safe.
After a long day on the trails you can unwind in the outdoor hot tub, which is perfect for soothing those aching muscles.
Ty Morgans
For a stay in the heart of Rhayader Ty Morgans is a historic townhouse that blends traditional charm with a modern feel.
This boutique well-priced accommodation is situated at the crossroads of Rhayader making it a perfect base for exploring the town and the Elan Valley.
Cosy rooms incorporate original features such as oak beams and stone fireplaces while offering all the modern amenities you’d expect including en suite bathrooms.
Ty Morgans also features an on-site bar and restaurant where guests can enjoy a variety of meals ranging from full Welsh breakfasts to evening dinners. The central location means you’re just a short stroll away from local shops, pubs and the Riverside Walk.
I love this hotel(Image: Portia Jones)
Elan Valley Hotel
Located just a short drive from the Elan Valley the Elan Valley Hotel is a top choice for a blend of comfort and convenience wrapped up in a boutique hotel experience.
Here you’ll find well-appointed rooms with beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. Each room is designed with comfort in mind, featuring plush beds and modern amenities.
The hotel’s restaurant is renowned for its exceptional menu featuring locally-sourced ingredients and offering a truly authentic taste of Wales.
It’s an ideal spot for easy access to the Elan Valley’s many trails and reservoirs while enjoying a touch of luxury.
Getting to Rhayader
Explore the wider area (Image: Wales Online)
Rhayader, the gateway to the Elan Valley, is easily accessible from various parts of Wales and England.
By car:
If you’re driving Rhayader is well connected via the A470 and A44 making it a scenic road trip from cities like Cardiff (approximately 2.5 hours), Birmingham (just over two hours), or Shrewsbury (around 90 minutes). The roads into mid Wales wind through picturesque countryside so allow a little extra time for slower rural routes and photo stops.
By public transport:
Travelling by train and bus is also an option though services are limited in this rural area. The nearest train station is in Llandrindod Wells, around 12 miles away, with connections via Transport for Wales. From there you can take a local bus to reach Rhayader. For more information and timetables check Traveline Cymru or use transport apps to help plan your journey.