This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Scotland’s capital may be best known for its raucous summertime festival and moody gothic architecture, but even a short break here offers plenty more besides. Pull up a pint in a historic tavern, dine at the acclaimed restaurant where author Irvine Welsh is a regular and climb to the top of Arthur’s Seat for shimmering views of the Firth of Forth — all over the course of a single day.
8am: Explore the old town
Edinburgh is a walkable city, so it’s possible to plot your own literary trail through the Old Town. Begin in the Grassmarket, then climb the Miss Jean Brodie Steps for a view of Edinburgh Castle framed by the narrow vennel (lane between buildings). From there, wander into Greyfriars Kirkyard, a 17th-century cemetery, where sharp-eyed Harry Potter fans will spot familiar names on the weathered gravestones, including one that inspired You-Know-Who.
The Port of Leith Distillery is Scotland’s very first vertical distillery. Photograph by Murray Orr
10am: Dive into the past
Across the road from the cemetery is the National Museum of Scotland. Its galleries journey through time and across continents, but there’s a strong focus on Scottish history and culture here, too, exhibiting everything from Alexander Graham Bell’s original box telephone to a Trainspotting screenplay signed by Ewan McGregor. For something different, stop by the Surgeons’ Hall. Charting Edinburgh’s medical past, its grisly artefacts include a pocketbook made from the skin of notorious murderer William Burke.
12pm: Commune with the greats
Step away from the bustle of the Royal Mile and slip through Lady Stair’s Close into Makars’ Court, a hidden courtyard where quotations from Scotland’s greatest writers are inscribed in the flagstones underfoot. Here you’ll also find The Writers’ Museum, a cosy, treasure-filled tribute to three of Scotland’s best-loved authors: Robert Burns, Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.
(Why Edinburgh is Europe’s ultimate escape for book-lovers)
1pm: Reach new heights
To round off the trail, head down to Princes Street, Edinburgh’s busiest thoroughfare, and its gardens, which are home to the Scott Monument, a soaring gothic tower dedicated to the author and funded entirely by public donations. Rising 61 metres (600ft) tall, it was the world’s highest monument to a writer until it was overtaken by José Martí Memorial in Cuba in 1958. A climb up its 287 spiral steps rewards you with sweeping views over Edinburgh’s rooftops and beyond — as far as the Firth of Forth.
Tom Kitchin, Edinburgh-born chef and owner of Michelin-starred The Kitchin, likes to serve seasonal Scottish fare, including this Newhaven lobster alongside a stuffed courgette flower and lobster bisque. Photograph by Murray Orr
Caption override Photograph by Murray Orr
2pm: Head for the river
With its postcard-perfect run of riverside restaurants, trendy wine bars and traditional pubs, Leith feels a world away from the gritty 1980s port described in Irvine Welsh’s novel Trainspotting. Now just a short tram ride from Princes Street, this waterfront neighbourhood is home to a quarter of Scotland’s Michelin-starred restaurants, including Tom Kitchin’s acclaimed flagship, The Kitchin. Its lunch menu celebrates seasonal Scottish fare with ingredients from nearby producers: the lobster comes from just three bus stops down the coast and tastes all the better for it. Little wonder Welsh himself is a regular.
4pm: Take in the view
In Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes, Robert Louis Stevenson wrote that, “Of all places for a view, this Calton Hill is perhaps the best.” Nearly 150 years later, his recommendation still rings true. Rising just east of Princes Street, Calton Hill is a grassy hilltop crowned with monuments to Scotland’s heroes, including the Parthenon-esque National Monument. Time your climb for sunset and enjoy a stunning panorama that takes in Edinburgh Castle, Arthur’s Seat and the shimmering Firth of Forth beyond.
The view from Calton Hill towards Princes Street Gardens reveals the Edinburgh Castle beyond. Photograph by Murray Orr
7.30pm: Unwind in the willows
For dinner, cross Princes Street into Edinburgh’s elegant New Town and walk west until you hit Castle Street. Here you’ll find Badger & Co, a local favourite serving hearty gastropub dishes — think steak and peppercorn pies and Scotsman scallops — in a whimsical setting inspired by The Wind in the Willows. Sink into heavy leather armchairs beneath a ceiling draped in greenery and you’ll feel right at home in the former residence of the book’s author, Edinburgh-born Kenneth Grahame.
9pm: Drink up
Where better to end in Edinburgh than the pub? For this, the New Town has plenty of options to choose from. Sherlock Holmes fans should seek out The Conan Doyle, a historic tavern that sits near the birthplace of its namesake author. It’s believed that the creation of the famous sleuth was inspired by a medical school professor who enthralled Arthur Conan Doyle while he studied at the University of Edinburgh. It’s worth also scheduling a stop at The Oxford Bar, a no-frills drinking den a few blocks west that’s tucked down a narrow side street. Ian Rankin’s famous detective Inspector Rebus — and often Rankin himself — comes here to unwind.
Published in the December 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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