I have been intrigued by Chola Highlands ever since the boldly black-and-red-trimmed Indian restaurant opened on Duke Street. It has been a restaurant that readers have recommended I drag myself out to, and earlier this year, I did just that. I am glad I did. While it still had remnants of Christmas decorations up, it just added to the hominess of the relatively small dining area.
Authentic South Indian Flavours
The food at Chola Highlands is the real draw, offering a distinct departure from standard curry-house fare. On my first visit, I struck gold by trying an idli. These are soft, fluffy rice cakes, and the kitchen has a few varieties on offer: a plain one, a more spicy aromatic one, and my personal favourite – an idli placed in a bowl and soaked with hot sambhar. The sambhar really gives them the flavours, and whenever I go back to Chola Highlands, because it is certainly good enough to go back to, they will be an absolute candidate for my meal.
The restaurant also specialises in dosas, which are really large flat pancakes. Again, I really recommend these. You can have the plain dosa, and there are about half a dozen others, but the spicy Meat Curry Dosa is just over £10 and is absolutely worth it. The menu also features a range of Biryani, fried rice, variety rice, and noodles.
Much of the menu is helpfully divided into vegetable or non-vegetable sections. You have vegetable starters, non-vegetable starters, vegetable curries, and non-vegetable curries. I have found the Chettinad Chicken to be particularly nice. When I first ordered that, I asked for it with rice, and it was suggested that it might be better with Ghee Rice. That wasn’t what I originally ordered, but I was willing to be talked around, and I agreed to the switch. I am very glad I did; it was no surprise to discover that the kitchen knew better than me, especially when I was ordering things I wasn’t particularly familiar with. I also recommend the Ginger Chicken, which is about as spicy as the Chettinad Chicken, or if you wish to go a little bit higher, the Chicken Bhuna is another recommendation that’s a bit spicier.
Rough Around the Edges
It is not a glamorous place. Maybe newly opened, but the signs of wear and tear are everywhere. The tables are black but scuffed, the seats are a little bit cramped, and the carpet is a bit worn. However, that was merely first impressions. The staff’s attentiveness quickly relaxed me, and by the time I looked at the menu, I was confident I would be well looked after.
Chola Highlands feels very Leith. It has been designed with a certain style that makes it look a little different from a run-of-the-mill Indian restaurant, though it hasn’t managed to deliver the full “wow” factor originally intended, which is likely down to budget constraints. I’m not sure I would take a business client here to impress them, unless they were a big fan of Indian food and had expressed a particular desire for something different. I’d readily meet friends because every meal I’ve had here has been very good.
I am also confident it is a good restaurant for vegan and vegetarian friends because so much effort has gone into making these options easy to find and plentiful. I think Chola Highlands’ challenge and opportunity is the area. It is on Duke Street, which has lots of opportunities to go elsewhere. Leith is also a high-footfall area, just around the corner from the super popular, super competitive Leith Walk. I certainly have lots of great Indian restaurants on my radar, but I would happily go back to Chola Highlands later this year. It is definitely one to add to your radar if you are in the area and a fan of Indian food, especially if you want to try something potentially a bit different that you might not have seen elsewhere.
Things to do in Leith
Leith is a fantastic base for exploring Edinburgh, offering a mix of history, dining, and connectivity.
Leith is well-connected. If you are arriving by train, Trainline is the best way to book tickets to Edinburgh Waverley. From there, the tram or a quick Uber will get you to Duke Street. For those planning to explore the coast or the wider Lothians, Enterprise Rent-A-Car has branches nearby.
There’s a range of great indie pubs that would pair nicely with Chola Highlands. Alternatively, and a healthier option for the summer, Leith Links is just a block away.
Overall
Chola Highlands is a restaurant that wins you over with its food rather than its furnishings. While the interior has seen better days, the authentic South Indian dishes – particularly the idlis and dosas are excellent. It’s a welcoming spot for a casual meal, especially for vegetarians and vegans, and holds its own in a competitive neighbourhood.
Explore More On Edinburgh Reviews
Searching for related content…
Review: Chola Highlands
Chola Highlands in Leith. It’s not the glitziest spot, the decor is a bit worn, but the South Indian food is the real deal. From fluffy idlis to spicy Chettinad chicken, the flavours shine. A great vegan-friendly option on Duke Street.
Summary
Tried Chola Highlands on Duke Street yet? Don’t let the scuffed tables put you off. Inside is a warm welcome and some serious South Indian cooking. The Meat Curry Dosa and Ghee Rice are must-haves. A rough diamond in Leith that’s worth a visit.
Related