Although the 20th arrondissement is not one of Paris’ top destinations for first-time visitors, it holds a timeless draw in the shape of Père Lachaise, the world-famous cemetery. Once a working-class suburb, it’s a fascinating place to spend a couple of days, with plenty of industrial history, authentic charm and a vibrant mix of cultures, artists and young Parisians.
DAY 1
Morning
Your first stop needs little introduction; the Père Lachaise cemetery houses the graves of many famous people, including Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Édith Piaf and Frédéric Chopin, as well as Molière, Marcel Proust and Sarah Bernhardt. Free maps are distributed at the entrance, or you can just follow your nose – the pungent smell of incense will lead you to Morrison’s grave more effectively than any paper map could.
Photo: Wikimedia Commons ©
Whether or not you were given a free cemetery map, it’s worth a five-minute wander up the hill to the shop that created them once you’ve had your fill of gravestones. Maison du 20e shop on 46 rue Sorbier is a community-shop-cum-local-tourist-office is an example of how larger tourism hubs turn away from central Paris and put in their faith the hands of true locals.
Since 2025, Maison du 20e has been an official tourist information spot, boasting knowledgeable staff and loads of intel about the neighbourhood. Top tip: Make for the glossy folder on the table in front of the till, which lists events, restaurants, and points of interest in the 20th – incontournable!
Photo: Paris Je T’Aime ©
One of the recommendations in that very folder should be your lunch stop. The 20th may be cool, but there’s always space for tradition in Paris. The Chantefable on 93 av Gambetta started as a tavern for storytellers and singers at the end of the 18th century, but has thrived for decades as a classic bistro, serving up lighter lunches like eggs mayonnaise and salad, likely washed down with a glass of crisp Chablis.
Afternoon
After lunch, nip to Le French Way on 18 rue Soleillet to hire a Solex. Once the method of transport favoured by movie stars such as Steve McQueen, Brigitte Bardot and Catherine Deneuve, Solex bikes were originally powered by petrol.
Photo: Rachel Ifans
These have had a green-power overhaul while maintaining their cute retro looks, and they sit somewhere between a moped and an e-bike; powerful enough that you don’t have to pedal, but small, silent and sustainable like an e-bike. You just press a button on the right handlebar, and you zoom off. You can either join one of Le French Way’s guided tours or take to the cycle lanes of Paris alone.
Evening
The last stop of the day, Arkose Nation, 35 rue des Grands Champs, is perfect if you still have a bit of fuel in the tank. It’s an indoor climbing gym that is built in an old upholstery factory and open to everyone. All you need is some loose clothing and a tight grip; the vibe is young, inclusive and welcoming. Its restaurant – La Cantine – is equally inspiring, whether you’re climbing or not.
Photo: Paris Je T’Aime ©
With an informal and youthful vibe, its commitment to sustainability has earned it two Écotable macarons, one of the most demanding labels in sustainable dining.
DAY 2
Morning
The second day starts with grabbing a couple of freebies. Start early with a takeaway cafe and croissant while you admire the art on display at the Espace Monte Cristo sculpture garden. There’s an exhibition dedicated to female sculptors that will continue until the rest of the year, and includes big names like Miss Tic and Niki de Saint-Phalle.
Next, walk to Le Paysan Urbain on 14 rue Stendhal, an urban farm built on a reservoir the size of four Olympic swimming pools. The farm team grows micro greens and edible flowers, including radish, green pea, rocket, sunflower, nasturtium and lemon balm, supplying 25 of the city’s top restaurants – including the Eiffel Tower! It’s also a social project giving work to vulnerable local people, and it’s great to wander the plot and chat to the team.
Photo: Paris Je T’Aime ©
Okay, your stomach’s probably howling by now, so it’s time to savour a meal that is peaking in popularity in Paris at the moment. Le brunch. And there’s nowhere better to do it than at Benoit Castel’s café in the 20th on 150 Rue de Ménilmontant. The all-you-can-eat menu includes all the pasties and breads you’d expect, but also home-roasted chicken, seasonal vegetables, pizzas, quiches, salads and charcuterie.
Castel is a zero-waste baker and pastry chef who is fastidious about his ingredients and his processes. His Pain d’Hier et de Demain – Yesterday and Tomorrow’s Bread – is a case in point.
It’s made using the previous day’s unsold bread, a time-consuming process which results in a rich and crusty no-waste loaf. If you’re lucky, you’ll see him pulling fresh loaf after fresh loaf out of his huge oven on a long-handled pole while you dine.
Photo: Rachel Ifans ©
Afternoon
You may not want to leave the warmth of Castel’s café, but you have to move on sometime. Take a walk back in time to a residential Paris area you’re unlikely to have seen before. Granted, it means leaving the 20th for a short while, but the Mouzaia district is well worth the slight diversion. It’s a world apart from the wide boulevards, Haussmann architecture and hubbub of the centre; its peaceful cobbled streets don’t follow the Parisian grid you’re used to, and each small shuttered house, built for the working class of the 1800s, has its own colourful garden. Wander the quiet streets and stick your nose in the area’s artist workshops, small galleries, bakeries and cafes.
Evening
Finish your walk in the neighbouring Parc des Buttes Chaumont and take advantage of the panoramic sunset view over Paris from Temple de la Sybille before returning to the heart of the 20th for a final foodie fling.
Photo: Wikimedia Commons ©
La Maison Faitout on 1 rue Florian seems to epitomise the spirit of the 20th arrondissement. It’s a gourmet canteen whose terrace and garden overlook la Petite Ceinture, a disused railway from the mid 1800s which now acts as a green belt around the city. The venue puts on live music, DJ sets, and comedy, and the foodie focus is on seasonal produce and braising as a healthier way of cooking; the savoury tart, pork belly and squid are all highly recommended.
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