Adventure down the Welsh border – following a famous earthwork that divided Wales and England
Views of the village of Montgomery
Most journeys into Mid-Wales for me have been a “straight” run down the centre on the trusty A470 that goes from Llandudno to the heart of Cardiff. For me the ‘Green Desert of Wales’ was this vast and beautiful expanse that even made North Wales feel over-crowded.
I was offered the chance to see a different side of Wales’s centre with a holiday let stay close to the border with England, just outside the market town of Newtown.
The Artists Garden House is an attractive barn conversion just two miles from Dolfor, ideally placed for exploring the Welsh Marches and rural Shropshire.
We went on a little adventure down the border route, with Offa’s Dyke a frequent companion along the way. The 82 mile earthwork – which roughly follows the Welsh/English boundary – is credited to King Offa, who ruled the Anglo-Saxon Kingdom of Mercia from 757 AD to 796 AD.
Making the most of a short weekend with perfect weather we used the trip down to both break up the journey and take in the splendour of the borderlands.
First stop was Llangollen – which was around half way between where I live and the holiday destination. It is one of those places that whenever I visit I always wonder why I don’t come more often, but then again perhaps the infrequency of visits makes me appreciate it all the more.
The town centre was looking spectacularly good on this clear spring morning. There aren’t many better sights that those from the historic Llangollen bridge – one of the Seven Wonders of Wales – looking at the River Dee cutting through the heart of the town.
The town of Llangollen (Image: stockinasia via Getty Images)
The only downside is that many others clearly feel the same way about this gem – with the streets heaving with visitors.
Our group – four friends that go back decades – decided to head away from the centre on a walk to work up an appetite for lunch.
We walked up to the Llangollen canal and then followed the towpath west to the Horseshoe Falls, an elegant weir that is another one of Thomas Telford’s masterpieces.
The historic Horseshoe Falls were designed by Thomas Telford(Image: Getty)
At this point the crowds have gone and as you climb higher you get some stunning views of the Dee Valley.
The circular route takes you past Castell Dinas Bran which was built by the Princes of Powys Fadog, as well as a stone’s throw from Offa’s Dyke as it winds from Llangollen up to Prestatyn on coast.
Helped by the weather, it was a perfect relatively easy six mile walk that took us back into Llangollen around two hours after we set off.
It was time for food but every spot in the sun or with a view was full up so we settled for what turned out to be decent grub inside at S&G bistro on Castle Street.
We then headed on to our accommodation located on the Cwm Weeg estate outside Newtown. It was another hour on from Llangollen.
The final approach takes you on some ‘proper’ rural lanes where you dread an oncoming vehicle but at this point it’s so quiet that there’s more chance of encountering an escaped sheep than another car.
The property itself was perfectly set within the rolling hills of Montgomeryshire.
The Artists Garden House near Newtown (Image: holidaycottages.co.uk)
It is surrounded by a 24-acre garden and grounds, designed and created by the welcoming and friendly owners, who live at the property next door. Guests are free to visit the gardens that include ancient woodlands and wildflower meadows.
Inside the house has been creatively designed with interesting features, exposed beams, oak floors, and vibrant colours.
The Artists Garden House near Newtown (Image: holidaycottages.co.uk)
Outside, the private garden has an extensive deck with a hot tub to enjoy the aforementioned vista.
It would be tempting to stay and relax but we had a busy exploring schedule.
The Artists Garden House near Newtown
So by late afternoon we were off to Newtown to see what the market town had to offer in an evening.
The place was surprisingly quiet given the weather but we spent time in a couple of pubs before going on the search for food – using a mix of online review sites and just wandering about seeing what looked appealing.
We settled on Hummingbird Lounge, which promised authentic Jamaican cuisine and absolutely delivered. We were slighly concerned when we asked for a share platter and they listed the things on it that had already sold out, which was pretty much everything!
But what they had – mainly jerk chicken – was wonderful, just go early on busy evenings for a full menu selection.
They even thrust extra (free) takeaway jerk chicken into our hands as we left – which made a perfect snack the following day.
There were days where this would been the start of a night but what nightlife takes place in this Powys town after 10pm will remain a mystery to us as we headed back to our highly civilised accommodation.
This was a good decision given the packed itinerary we had planned for the next day.
After a fry-up and a hot tub dip at the property we headed on a border route with a vague plan.
First port of call was Montgomery, around 20 minutes away from where we were staying. It is described as a ‘little town with a big history’ and lives up to its name. The Iron Age Celts, Romans, Saxons, Normans, and the English Civil War all left their mark here.
Views of the village of Montgomery
We parked in the little centre and walked up to the castle which is perched on a ridge above the town. It was built by Henry III in response to the growing power of Welsh native prince Llywelyn ap Iorwerth (Llywelyn the Great).
It is mainly a ruin now with its ultimate end coming in the Civil War.
The site is a fantastic spot to appreciate the views of both the town and surrounding countryside – looking across to Shropshire. It was easy to see why this was chosen as a location for a fortress.
Views of Montgomery and surrounding countryside
We went back down into the town for a walkaround and this was where it struck us how different this was to North Wales. This beautiful Georgian town square that sparkled on a sun filled weekend morning was almost deserted – a huge contrast with Llangollen the day before.
The centre of Montgomery in Powys
That was fantastic for those that have made the trip there and we got to speak to a couple of locals for tips on how to continue our road trip.
This led us to another stop just 15 miles down the road but in a different country. Clun lies on English side of the border where a castle and settlement was founded shortly after the Norman Conquest.
It prospered until followers of Owain Glyndwr devastated the surrounding area. Dramatic riverside ruins remain in place and ‘picture perfect’ doesn’t quite describe how lovely this place is.
Clun Castle is a medieval ruined castle in Clun, Shropshire
Seven miles further down the road – and back in Wales – we pull into another border gem, Knighton. The Welsh name for the town is “Tref-y-Clawdd”, the town on the Dyke. It is apparently the only town to lie on the line of Offa’s Dyke.
The village of Knighton in Powys
It’s another attractive market town and we walked down to see part of Offa’s Dyke, the place also include a centre dedicated to the earthwork. I’ll be honest and say it’s not spectacular but you do feel the weight of history here.
The tour continued and next stop was the world famous Hay-on-Wye.
There is yet another castle and it’s good to know we Welsh were such a nuisance to the occupiers! This had its origins back in the days of Norman conquest and quelling Welsh rebellions. It was later strengthened in the 12th century and a mansion added in the 17th Century.
But the town – which also lies close to Offa’s Dyke – is now more famous for something else – books, and bloody loads of them.
Castle in the centre of Hay-on-Wye
It is named the ‘World’s First Book Town’ – its book themed revival inspired by Richard Booth from the 1960s.
He had read about some libraries that were closing down in America – went out there with some friends, where they crated up thousands of books and shipped them home. He opened his own second hand bookshop in the former fire station in 1961.
This inspired others and soon books from across the world were flowing into the increasing collection of bookshops in the town – which now number around 20.
Hay-on-Wye is known for its high concentration of bookstores(Image: Getty)
It is renowned for its annual Hay Festival, which attracts literary greats and other famous names.
Our arrival tied in with lunch and after a pit-stop we went on another hike along the river and then up into the surrounding countryside. This was followed by a browse around the very unique town centre.
That was the final destination of the day and it was back to relax in our stress reducing accommodation.
Looking through brochures and also online it was surprising how much there was to do here. It’s not all in the immediate area but within 45 minutes/one hour there’s a real variable selection of things to do and see.
This ranges from the lakes of the Elan Valley to the English border town of Ludlow. And as we found out, many of these places remain relatively undiscovered – certainly in comparison with North Wales.
It may be the ‘Green Desert of Wales’ but there is nothing empty about this diverse part of the country. I would highly recommend a visit – just don’t all come at the same time to ruin that peace!