There’s a Welsh valley that’s teeming with nature, wildlife, walks and biking trails – and it’s not too far from one of the biggest roads through Wales
Long stroll or easy walk – Afan’s got it all(Image: Kathryn Williams)
If there’s one place I’ll always fall back on when fancying an afternoon out in the sun it’s a beautiful, peaceful forest park that I grew up just over the mountain from.
Being from the Rhondda I was spoilt for choice with mountain trails and exploring the nearby woodland walks, but by venturing up over the Bwlch mountain there’s a stunning and unspoilt valley where you could spend hours exploring.
Afan Forest Park – or Afan Argoed if you’re local – will immerse you in nature and luckily for those with varying abilities, the trails range from one mile strolls right up to ten mile hikes.
You will handily find the start of the walks at the Afan Forest from three spots, Afan Forest Park Visitor Centre, Rhyslyn Car Park and Glyncorrwg Mountain Bike Centre. From the name of that last location, Afan is a haven for mountain bikers, too, and those who prefer two wheel adventures can ride designated trails all around the valley.
The Pontrhydyfen Aqueduct – you are spoilt for choice for views and trails at Afan Argoed – Afan Country Park(Image: Wales Online)
From down in Pontrhydafen, at the bottom of the valley and closest to the M4, you can park up at Rhyslyn car park (What3Words Location: Mixers.Bitter.Sushi) and trace the Afan riverside on the former canal and return along a disused mineral railway track, don’t forget to stop at the viewpoint at the top. This is around a 4km walk, with a flat route almost all the way, along woodland paths and on forest roads. However the descent can be steep so watch out!
The mountain biking opportunities are plentiful, too
Also from Rhyslyn you can embark on the Richard Burton trail – an 8.8km walk that’s full of wildlife and is also a great example of how nature has reclaimed the former coal workings of the area. You’ll take in the aqueduct and the beautiful landscape – there’s also plenty of info panels to learn about Hollywood star Burton.
Alternatively, head for the Visitor Centre (Cynonville Port Talbot Neath Port Talbot SA13 3HG) where you’ll find walks along the former route of Brunel’s South Wales Mineral Railway Line with its tunnel and former station at Cynonville. This is perfect for those who need a flat route, it’s three miles long and is great for little ones to test their bike riding skills.
This was quite a gloomy day! But still worth a walk on the old rail line through Afan
A second, shorter walk (2km) from the visitor centre is the Old Parish Road Walk which takes you through ancient woodlands and clearings along the old parish road to Neath.
For updates on these routes, route closures for maintenance, maps and more, visit Natural Resources Wales. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here
Now, your day out wouldn’t be complete without a post-walk (or mid-walk, depending on where you start) cold drink or coffee and you can sate your thirst at the visitor’s centre with Base Wales’ smash burgers, big breakfasts or just have a coffee. But check out that picture below and I know you’ll be tempted! Read more about Base, here.
The burgers at Base start at £7.50 for their Base Smash Burger (Image: Neath Port Talbot Council)
Another great stop on the Afan walking trail, along the old railway track path from the centre, is Afan Lodge. In fact, you can get on the trail from the lodge itself and stroll up and down the valley, too. The lodge, which has been on its site along the A4107 through the valley since the 1960s and started life as a miners’ institute, was recently take over by two local brothers, Joe and Alfie Tomalin-Reeves and Alfie’s pal, George Rutter, 24, from West Sussex.
They’ve brought the lodge back to life after it closed down in late 2024 and serve breakfasts, lunches, dinner and afternoon tea. It’s their Sunday lunch, though, that’s caught our attention with its tender meat and veggies that are so tasty you know they are not an afterthought. The portions are decent, too.
Afan Lodge brekkie roll (Image: Mark Lewis)
Visitors can stay, too, and its beer garden has simply stunning views down the Afan. It’s one of my favourite places to sit on a sunny Sunday.
Although once thick with mining industry, what I love about Afan Valley is that it’s more or less been reclaimed by nature. But it’s industrial past is commemorated with a museum there – an ideal visit if the weather turns against you.
At Afan Vistor Centre, too, you’ll be able to find out some of the industrial history that shaped the communities in the Afan Valley and beyond, at the South Wales Mining Museum. Here you’ll see artefacts of the colliery era that powered the nation and established towns and villages across the valleys, including Afan.
Afan Argoed, or Afan Country Park has so much more to offer than even I’ve experienced, with camping, biking and more. But if you do get the chance to drive there from the Rhondda side, take it – the mountain views are breathtaking.
For more on the area, including maps and information, visit afanforestpark.com.