Back in 1070, when William the Conqueror was deciding where to build a fortress to guard the western approach to London, he settled on a spot by a bend of the River Thames at the edge of a Saxon hunting ground. Some 16 years later, construction was finished on the first iteration of Windsor Castle, now the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world. And the castle’s creation also determined the location of the thriving Berkshire town it would eventually tower over.
You won’t find a town that boasts more royal connections than Windsor. The castle has been home to 40 British monarchs, and 11 are buried in its exquisite Gothic chapel. St George’s Chapel is also home to the Order of Garter, Britain’s oldest and most senior order of chivalry, founded in 1348. More recently, it is where Prince Harry and Meghan Markle were married in 2018, and where King Charles and Queen Camilla’s marriage was blessed in 2005 after their civil service at the Windsor Guildhall.
Much of William and Harry’s childhood was spent in and around Windsor as pupils at Eton College. Harry briefly returned to the area to set up home with Meghan in Frogmore Cottage before they left royal life for the U.S. Prince William, Kate, and their three children have made Adelaide Cottage in Windsor Home Park their base since 2022. A rolling roster of investitures, meetings and public engagements continue to take place at the castle alongside large-scale public events in the area such as the Royal Windsor Horse Show and nearby Royal Ascot.
When President Donald Trump receives his historic second State Visit to the UK later this year it will be at Windsor. What he will make of it remains to be seen. But when it comes to the royal family the verdict is in. Queen Victoria described it in her diaries as “good old Windsor.” Queen Elizabeth II, who was evacuated to Windsor as a Princess during the Second World War and spent her later years during the COVID lockdown at the castle, was simply believed to think of it, more than any other place, as home.
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The exterior of Windsor Castle.
What to See
Whether you approach Windsor by air, road, or rail you will be treated to spectacular views of the castle and its iconic round tower. On arrival, you can wander right up to the King Henry VIII Gate from Windsor old town. However, with tours of the castle available all year round, you’d be missing a trick not to go inside and take in sights of St George’s Chapel, the State Rooms and Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House. King George IV’s opulent private apartments are also open for tours from fall to spring.
Outside, Changing the Guard takes place at certain times on selected days. And if you like a long walk you are quite literally in for a treat. The iconic 2.5-mile tree-lined Long Walk leading up to the castle within Windsor Great Park has been the backdrop for many major royal events. Most recently, Queen Elizabeth’s funeral procession made its final journey there before she was taken to her resting place in St George’s Chapel. The Great Park is also home to the beautiful Savill Garden commissioned by King George V. Frogmore House and Gardens, where royals such as Queen Victoria and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor are laid to rest, are open to the public very occasionally.
Take yourself back to Charles and Camilla’s 2005 wedding with a trip to Windsor Guildhall, which is also home to the borough’s museum. The Royal Windsor Horse show is held annually in May, and while Ascot Racecourse has events all year round, June is when it hosts the famous Royal Ascot meeting.
What to Do
Windsor is a place for walking, and there is a special route in celebration of Queen Elizabeth becoming Britain’s longest-reigning monarch opened by the Queen herself on her 90th birthday. It is a symbolic 6.373 km long for the 63 years 7 months and 3 days that saw her beat Queen Victoria’s previous record. Alternatively, you could take the Eton Walkway which will take you past William and Harry’s old school. From May to September, tours of the college are also available.
Theatre-lovers will want to check out the Theatre Royal Windsor with the added bonus that the royal family’s trips there were featured in The Crown.
And if you’d rather relax on the water than pound the streets then get yourself down to the river and rent a boat for even more spectacular views.
Where to Stay
If you can’t stay in the castle itself then the Castle Hotel is surely the next best thing, steeped in history and smack bang in the middle of the town. If you’re happy to rest your head further afield in pursuit of royal links then make like Harry and Megan and head to Coworth Park or Cliveden House. Coworth Park, where the Prince stayed the night before his wedding, has its own Polo fields managed by Guards Polo Club next door. Cliveden House, where Meghan stayed with her mother, is not shy about reminding people of its role in the scandal that was the Profumo Affair. Both hotels are steeped in luxury and offer sumptuous afternoon tea.
Where to Eat
What could be better than a Michelin-starred restaurant with a strong royal connection. The Hinds Head, five miles from Windsor in Bray, was the location of Prince Philip’s stag do before his 1947 wedding to Princess Elizabeth. The Queen hosted a lunch there in 1963 for a whole host of overseas royals. And Princess Diana also dined there. Now one of two establishments in Bray owned by Heston Blumenthal (the other is The Fat Duck), the restaurant offers an à la carte and bar menu. Blumenthal also used to own The Crown at Bray which has just come under acclaimed new ownership.
If you’re a horse racing fanatic like Queen Elizabeth II you can enjoy a bite to eat with views of the Windsor Racecourse at waterfront restaurant GOGOS. Family-run ice cream shop Fortescues of Windsor may not have obvious royal connections but they are right opposite the castle and did a lovely window display for King Charles and Queen Camilla’s 20th wedding anniversary.
Where to Drink
There is an abundance of quaint drinking spots in Windsor, many bearing royal names; from the Prince Harry to the Duchess of Cambridge. The 18th Century George Inn is the flagship pub for the Windsor and Eton Brewery, which created a special beer called Harry and Meghan’s Windsor Knot for their wedding. Situated on one of the oldest streets in Windsor right by the Long Walk is the popular Two Brewers with an extensive range of beers, wines and food.
Cafe, cocktail and wine bar The Shambles opened on the King’s coronation weekend, and Prince William spoke with the owners during a visit to Soho just before the event. The bar is situated in the famous Crooked House of Windsor, a 17th Century architectural marvel enjoying a renaissance in the Instagram age. Nearby wine bar The Cobbles was rumored to be the home of King Charles II’s mistress Nell Gwynn.
Where to Shop
You’re spoiled for choice for shopping as soon as you step off the train and enter the aptly-named Windsor Royal shopping center. However, for a true royal shopping experience the place to head is Windsor Farm Shop in the Great Park, where William and Kate have been seen picking up supplies. Opened by Prince Philip in 2001, it sells produce from the royal estates and Windsor farms.
Family-run department store Daniel of Windsor was awarded a royal warrant from Queen Elizabeth for supplying gifts. Take a walk to nearby Eton High Street for an abundance of independent retailers.
Town & Country Contributing Editor Victoria Murphy has reported on the British Royal Family since 2010. She has interviewed Prince Harry and has travelled the world covering several royal tours. She is a frequent contributor to Good Morning America. Victoria authored Town & Country book The Queen: A Life in Pictures, released in 2021.