What with the Fringe, a god-daughter’s wedding, the set-up and derig of the Edinburgh 900 exhibition at St James Quarter, and caring responsibilities for my elderly mother, I’m a bit late to the party in visiting Stockbridge’s newest addition.
The Captain Darling opened in May at Hamilton Place, but I finally made it there last Friday.
The Captain Darling – Blackadder fans will get the reference!
This gastropub is the latest venture from the Edinburgh-based Òir Group, the independent hospitality company behind local favourites like Bodega and Lucky Yu. Already a fan of these restaurants, I’d been hearing excellent things ‘on the street’ – and it promised to be a good evening. It didn’t disappoint.
For those of a certain age, the name references Captain Kevin Darling from Blackadder Goes Forth (1989). But it’s also what our group of friends affectionately dubbed my bestie’s new boyfriend back in 1992, when he joined us on holiday and liberally used ‘darling’ for his new beau, much to our amusement. The nickname stuck – he’s still called that to this day!
My good intentions of a leisurely stroll were scuppered when I realised I’d forgotten my iPhone – not ideal when photos were expected. As someone known for being fashionably early rather than late, an Uber was quickly summoned to preserve my reputation!
Walking in on a Friday night, the place buzzed with an appealing mix: young singles, date-night couples, uni students enjoying one last decent meal with parents and grandparents. It’s dog-friendly too, though I didn’t spot any four-legged diners during our visit.
The décor features striking dark green walls, with a dedicated bar space for those wanting leisurely drinks and snacks seven days a week from lunchtime until late. Adam, the general manager, gave us a warm welcome and ushered us to the separate dining area up a couple of stairs, securing us the best table in the house – window-side and perfect for people-watching.
The interior dining area
The all-day brasserie-style menu offers starters including Cumbrae oysters, prawn cocktail, Caesar salad and haggis croquettes, while mains feature handmade savoury pies and meats cooked over coals.
Our waiter Daniel – charming and young enough not to know the gastropub’s Blackadder origins – had hospitality absolutely nailed. He struck that perfect balance of engaging banter while respecting two ‘old birds’ needing a long-overdue catch-up, looking after us admirably throughout.
We started with margaritas – one spicy, one original. Though served in non-traditional tumblers, I’ll forgive this transgression as they were simply the best margaritas I’ve ever tasted: a refreshing combination of sweet, sour and salty with perfect lime tartness.
For starters, I chose the charred tenderstem broccoli salad with braised hispi cabbage, pickled shallots, roasted sunflower seeds and black garlic vinaigrette – a brilliant combination of textures and earthy flavours delivering a light, healthy opener. Fellow food influencer Margi opted for the haggis croquettes with smoked Dunlop cheese, pickles and 9.5 brown sauce, which I was rather pleased about given her sharing tendencies. These delivered crunchy exteriors giving way to silken interiors of unctuous, oozing Dunlop cheese and sharp pickles – pure delight when dunked in that brown sauce.
For mains, I was torn between the rare-breed pork chop but eventually chose the Scottish beef Denver steak with Koffmann chips. For the uninitiated (like I was), a Denver steak is a tender, richly-marbled cut from the shoulder, prized for its deep flavour – and it was delicious.
As for Koffmann chips, which I keep noticing on menus across the city, they’re premium frozen chips developed by three-Michelin-starred chef Pierre Koffmann – triple-blanched and specially coated for that perfect crispy exterior and fluffy interior. Frankly, who cares about the provenance when they taste this good?
Margi chose the grilled sea trout with broccoli and blood orange dressing, sharing my not-so-healthy chips. We cheekily ordered the baked cauliflower cheese with Connage Gouda, Isle of Mull Cheddar and mustard, having been tipped off it was rather special. Sadly, it didn’t quite live up to expectations – certainly not matching my own version, which has been praised as the best cauliflower cheese ever tasted!
We skipped desserts but indulged in another bottle of the spicy plum and blackcurrant Electric Bee Primitivo – full-bodied yet as smooth as our flowing conversation in such ambient surroundings.
The word on the street was spot-on. Captain Darling delivered on all fronts: great food, excellent hospitality and wonderful atmosphere.
I’ve heard their Sunday roast is exceptional – so much so that two fellow foodie friends (aka the Social Bitches) returned twice in two weeks. With so many establishments offering this staple, that speaks volumes.
I can’t wait to return, perhaps on my bestie’s next Edinburgh visit, when she can see what all the hype is about her husband’s namesake.
The Captain Darling
16-18 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge, Edinburgh EH3 5AU
www.thecaptaindarling.com
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