Ahoy! If you’re looking for atmosphere, this gem of a pub is a must-see
This East London bar is oozing with atmosphere(Image: Stewart Carr)
In my world, Greene King and Wetherspoons are the adults’ equivalent to Universal Studios and Disneyland. Yes, the rides have lots of pretty names to tell them apart, but they’re all essentially the same. And so it is with most chain pubs. Playtime means good, reliable beer at affordable prices, with clean lines and never an off-tasting pint to have to take back to the bar.
But one Greene King pub in East London is anything but typical. In fact, for those of you looking for a slightly spooky-cum-historical adventure in London, combined with a drinks session, I’d say it’s an absolute must-see. The Prospect of Whitby in Wapping Wall, Wapping, has an appearance that takes your breath away. It is known for its seafaring history, with pirate executions at Execution Dock nearby, and a noose hanging over the shores of the Thames serves as a sobering reminder of its grim past.
Dating back to the 1520s, The Prospect of Whitby is like stepping into another world. You can imagine famous patrons like Samuel Pepys sitting in a corner, getting the latest gossip from a trader of the East India Company, or Princess Margaret playing billiards upstairs, surrounded by a throng of admirers. Or better still, watch the episode of Only Fools and Horses it featured in, when Uncle Albert went missing and Del Boy and Rodney searched around old East End bars.
The Prospect of Whitby in Wapping dates back to the 1520s(Image: Stewart Carr)
The Prospect of Whitby is situated well off the beaten tourist track, with a glorious terrace and beer garden overlooking the Thames and Wapping Beach, and if you want a beer with a view, this is London as it ought to be seen.
It’s a mild autumn day when I rock up to the Prospect of Whitby, about a five-minute walk from Wapping Overground station. Walking along Wapping Wall, I can see a little side alley with steps leading down to the Thames and I can’t resist a quick exploration. It’s quite a view to stand on the shore as the waves come in but after a few minutes watching the tide change, I wisely decide it’s time to come back up.
The atmospheric bar has the feel of a pirate ghost ship(Image: Stewart Carr)
The bar itself is beautifully olde-worlde from the outside, with hanging baskets, and inside it has the warm, candle-lit feel of a country pub. The Prospect of Whitby serves the usual selection of beers, ales, wines and spirits, and my friend and I settle for Estrella Galicia (£6.90) before going off to explore.
Much of the ground floor bar is wood-decked and has the feel of a pirate ship, with lozenge windows peaking out at the Thames. The beer garden is lengthy and offers sweeping views of the river, with towering skyscrapers of the City of London in the distance. But there’s even more to explore.
A glorious beer garden and terrace offers spectacular views of the Thames(Image: Stewart Carr)
Walking up the wooden stairwell leads to a suite of rooms that are filled with wonders of discovery, it’s like scouting the hidden rooms of a castle. ‘The Smuggler’s Bar’ is a gloriously sumptuous dining room that has the feel of being in an old stately home.
It’s beautiful, but the big point of interest is Pepys room – a visually less remarkable bar area where the 17th century diarist Samuel Pepys used to frequent. The simple, pewter room used to hold boxing matches, while in the 1960s it became a popular den for celebrities of the day including Rod Steiger, Richard Burton, Kirk Douglas, Fran Sinatra, Paul Newman, Judy Garland, Mohammed Al Fayed and Princess Margaret.
The Pepys room leads out onto the upper terrace, with several outdoor tables offering sweeping views overlooking the Thames. It’s hard not to get caught up in the scenery. The infamously cruel ‘Hanging’ Judge Jeffries was said to frequent this balcony and watch pirates hang from the place known as Execution Dock. It was here that Captain Kidd met his fate in 1701, and a noose hangs from the terrace as a timely reminder of its grim past.
Who need museums when you have pubs like this? I’m half surprised there was no charge for entry, this is a thrilling place to explore. I meet an Australian guy who seems as buzzing with endorphins as me as he ran from room to room exploring all the pub had to offer. A perfect place to bring visitors to London, I know I’ll be back again soon.
The Prospect of Whitby is located in Wapping Wall, Wapping.
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