Does France’s Ultra-Fast Fashion Bill mean global retail has taken another step towards circularity, Emily McGill, Sustainability Communications Manager at ReBound Returns, asks.
The French government has introduced one of the world’s toughest measures against ultra-fast fashion. The Ultra-Fast Fashion Bill sets a new precedent by including an escalating eco-tax of €5–€10 per item, mandatory ‘eco-score’ labelling, and a ban on advertising.
While the law is national, it could be a long-awaited catalyst for international change. France has a track record of shaping EU policy, and this Bill is already being watched closely by governments and retailers well beyond its borders. So, is this another step towards circularity for global retail?
The circular economy isn’t a niche idea – it’s about creating jobs, fostering resilience, promoting consumer fairness, and upholding environmental responsibility. But while innovative retailers are taking action to make their operations more circular and sustainable, the industry still has a long way to go.
Why regulation is tightening
Imagine a truckload of clothing. Now imagine that truckload dumped in a landfill or burned. This is sadly what is happening every second across the world, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
Urgency is mounting for the industry to change, with fast fashion the second largest consumer of water worldwide, while also contributing around 2-8% of global carbon emissions.
Without action, textile manufacturing emissions are projected to rise by 60% by 2030. That’s why environmental concerns are rising on both the regulatory and consumer agenda, and why retailers cannot afford to ignore the direction of travel.
The rippling effects of France’s legislation
In the 1990s, France was among the first to adopt EPR for electronic packaging.
In the 1990s, France was among the first to adopt Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for electronic packaging, later extending the policy to textiles in 2007. The principle shifted responsibility for waste management from municipalities to producers.
The European Union (EU) soon developed its own EPR framework, drawing heavily on the French model and continuing to adapt as France’s policies evolved. Today, Europe is once again looking to France for direction.
The European Parliament has approved amendments to the Waste Framework Directive to include textiles under EPR. Once the Directive is published in the EU’s Official Journal, Member States will have 20 months to transpose it into national legislation, followed by an additional 10 months to put EPR systems into operation.
By contrast, the UK has often taken a ‘wait and see’ approach before introducing new regulations. Although adoption tends to lag behind Europe, growing pressure to improve environmental performance – particularly in the lead-up to COP30 – could speed up change sooner than expected. This is why retailers should prepare for stricter frameworks to gain ground across Europe and further afield.
How are retailers impacted by growing ESG expectations?
Regardless of whether they operate in France, retailers are facing growing expectations to strengthen their Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) performance.
Product quality and durability are becoming central to this shift, with businesses needing to demonstrate that what they put on shelves is built to last. Packaging is also under scrutiny, with pressure to reduce waste and adopt more circular approaches across supply chains.
While such changes may require investment, they also open opportunities to deliver greater value for consumers, reduce environmental impact across operations, and position retail as a sector that is actively shaping a more sustainable future.
Embracing sustainability can also attract customers – almost one in five shoppers are willing to pay extra for sustainable returns.
Innovators leading the way
Across the sector, retailers are experimenting with new ways to lessen their environmental footprint, with materials a clear focus for sustainable innovation. For example, Mango has committed to using 100% recycled polyester by the end of this year, while Allbirds is turning to bio-based inputs, such as sugarcane and eucalyptus fibre.
Circularity is also moving up the agenda. Partnerships are helping brands embed new models. ASOS is working with Hirestreet to convert returns into rental stock, while Nobody’s Child has teamed up with Reskinned to offer take-back schemes for resale or recycling.
At ReBound, we act as a global circularity partner, connecting retailers with circular solutions worldwide. From returns to faulty production, overstock, and end-of-life materials, we help ensure items find their best possible second life.
The momentum of retailers globally is encouraging, but the industry’s shift is still in its early stages. High upfront costs and operational complexity remain barriers to many retailers looking to become more sustainable. The challenge – and opportunity – lies in scaling these initiatives from isolated pilots to standard practice across the industry.
Building a circular supply chain
Creating a genuinely low-emission and circular retail network will require collaboration across supply chains – from design and materials to reverse logistics and recycling partners. The task is complex, but the benefits are clear.
By embracing circularity now, brands and retailers can lead the charge toward a more responsible future, create new value from materials and meet growing consumer expectations head-on.
Returns are rising, but this trend can become an opportunity. Retail has the chance to move from being part of the problem to driving the solutions. France’s Ultra Fast Fashion Bill may be the catalyst, but the responsibility – and the opportunity – is shared across the sector.