The holiday destination didn’t seem much at first to me, but its charm soon came out
09:10, 18 Oct 2025Updated 09:10, 18 Oct 2025
Paul McAuley is a Senior Life Reporter for the Liverpool ECHO, focusing on communities from all walks of life who make the city so diverse and rich.
From new restaurant openings to cultural events, Paul specialises in covering everything that’s going on across the city.
Moving from Ireland, Paul studied journalism at Liverpool John Moores University before joining the ECHO in the summer of 2021. You can reach him on Twitter or his email.
Down one of the many Faro streets
Returning to work after a lengthy holiday is always a bit of a downer, regardless of the circumstances. My mood took a further hit when I switched on my laptop and was immediately reminded of the sun-drenched paradise I had been enjoying just hours earlier.
Sat in the ECHO’s Liverpool city centre office with the rain lashing against the windows of St Paul’s Square, it was a stark contrast to my recent adventure to the Algarve, Portugal – the location of Microsoft’s iconic screensaver that subtly persuaded an entire generation that heaven could indeed be found on earth.
The purpose of my visit to this southern European country wasn’t initially related to the Benagil Cave – it was to explore the historic old town of Faro. However, upon discovering it was less than an hour’s journey away, I decided it was worth the bus ride.
It quickly became apparent that this was money well spent. The tourist attraction is one of those rare spots that appears even more surreal in person than it does in photographs.
The cave in question
Nestled along the rugged southern coast, not far from the small fishing village bearing the same name, the sea cave exceeded all expectations.
The renowned domed ceiling opens up to the sky, allowing the sun to beam directly down as if God himself was sending you a divine message. With the sunlight streaming in and illuminating the cave with a magical warmth, it truly was a place filled with a mystical glow.
Anyways, backtracking to the main reason for my journey – Faro. This quaint location possesses a subtle kind of beauty. It doesn’t strike you immediately with the postcard beauty, but there’s a lot of charm in its muted shades, old stone, and the way the city is built around water.
Faro can be flew to directly from Liverpool
The more time you spend exploring all the hidden corners, the more your appreciation grows. Initially, I was underwhelmed by Faro’s size, wondering ‘How am I going to spend several days here without getting bored?’ Especially as someone who needs constant activity.
However, by my last day, there were still things I was hurrying to experience. There are so many secret alleyways brimming with bars, restaurants and pubs that you would need a dedicated tour guide to ensure you get the most out of what is on offer.
Aside from the cave, if you ever find yourself in the area, there are two things I’d recommend adding to your itinerary. Both can be done for two euros and within an hour if you’re determined and wear sensible shoes.
Faro’s Chapel of Bones
The first is The Chapel of Bones. It’s part of the Carmo Church and was constructed in 1816 by the Carmelite order. It’s exactly as it sounds – a venue built entirely of bones.
The bones were unearthed from a nearby graveyard when burial space was running short. It’s a small, compact area measuring roughly four by six metres.
Above the entrance, an inscription in Portuguese states: “Pára aqui a considerar que a este estado hás‑de chegar”, translating to “Stop here and consider that you too will reach this state.” Although there isn’t much to take in, it is a venue you won’t find in many holiday destinations – at least not from Liverpool John Lennon airport anyway.
The old town was filled with quirky huts
Not even a twenty-minute stroll away is Peacock Park. Officially known as the Jardim da Alameda João de Deus garden, it’s a public space with free entry.
Despite its modest size, it offers more than enough room for relaxation, with mature trees, shaded walkways and green lawns making up most of it. Perhaps the park’s most exciting aspect is the presence of wandering peacocks.
Even though no peacock fanned off its feathers, they were still a spectacle to see, particularly when they came close – although not so much when I saw one eyeing my warm ham sandwich.
It was the ideal place to while away a few hours, especially when that dreaded time approaches and you’re kicked out of your hotel room, awaiting your flight’s arrival. Although it wasn’t love at first sight with Faro for me, the blissful retreat quickly grew on me.