I’m pretty sure I’m watching the most spectacular sunset I’ve ever seen, and I’ve chased a fair few in my timeThis article contains affiliate links, we will receive a commission on any sales we generate from it. Learn more
Is this the best view in Wales?(Image: Portia Jones )
I’m pretty sure I’m watching the most spectacular sunset I’ve ever seen, and I’ve chased a fair few in my time. The sky is putting on a superb show, shifting from molten gold to deep midnight blue before melting into inky black. Below, a mirror-still lake glimmers beneath forested hills.
From the balcony of my room, fizz in hand, it’s easy to imagine I’m gazing out over Lake Como or in some pricey Alpine retreat. There may be no snow-capped peaks, but the sweeping lake views and forested hillsides more than deliver on drama. The best part is that this isn’t Italy or Switzerland, it’s Wales, and I’m at the grand and rather fabulous Lake Vyrnwy Hotel in Powys.
Perched on a forested hillside within a 24,000-acre estate, the hotel has been impressing guests since 1890 with its sweeping views over the mountain-ringed Lake Vyrnwy reservoir.
And while summer tends to get all the glory, winter is quietly magical here. The air feels fresher, the scenery moodier, and the crowds blissfully thinner. You might even nab a deal on a luxurious stay, making it the perfect time for a peaceful weekend away in Wales.
The view is incredible (Image: Portia Jones )
The origin story of this hotel is intertwined with the scenic lake and dam because neither would be here without a very thirsty Liverpool. In the 1800s, the port city of Liverpool was booming but had a wildly insufficient water supply to keep residents hydrated and industry flourishing.
So, in true British fashion, they scouted for aqua and found it right here in the verdant Vyrnwy Valley.
With over 400 streams and a perfect rocky base, it was declared the ideal spot to drown an entire Welsh village and build what became Britain’s first large masonry dam. Cheers for that, lads.
With its glorious views and elegant décor, Lake Vyrnwy Hotel has always been popular to enjoy a traditional afternoon or cream tea(Image: Lake Vyrnwy)
Llanwddyn was relocated uphill, the valley flooded, and by 1889, water began its 68-mile journey east to keep Liverpool kettles boiling. At the time, it was the world’s second-largest civil engineering project, and the vast reservoir remains Severn Trent’s most ambitious.
The Liverpool Corporation built the hotel in 1890 to impress visiting dignitaries and businessmen, who marvelled at this outstanding engineering feat. Demand soon exploded.
This sprawling lakeside hideaway is full of nooks and crannies to explore (Image: Lake Vyrnwy Hotel and Spa)
And you can see why, it’s a total stunner, with views over the lake that still astonish. Royalty even popped by to have a nose. In 1910, 20 years after the hotel’s completion, the then Prince of Wales, later King George V, arrived to open the dam and visit the hotel.
Since then, the hotel has been independently owned, extended, and spruced up with new bedrooms, a conference and banqueting suite, and the Tavern bar. It has a 4-star rating from both the AA and Visit Wales and two AA Rosettes for its Tower Restaurant.
The Hotel is currently up for sale, and Wales Online reports that the family has said they now feel the time is right to step back and hand it over to new owners to develop the business further.
Located in a 24,000-acre estate on a forested hillside overlooking a dramatic, mountain-ringed lake, this swish hotel commands one of the most impressive views of Lake Vyrnwy(Image: Portia Jones )
For my visit, I had come for a mid-week escape with my obliging husband to see if this historic hotel lived up to the hype and delivered more than just dreamy lake views.
Lake Vyrnwy is obviously the star attraction here, and the hotel is ideally positioned for panoramic views across the water and an alpine-looking landscape. Perched above the reservoir, you’re just a short walk or drive from a nature reserve, forested trails and cascading waterfalls.
Cross the masonry dam and you’ll find a visitor hub, RSBP bird hide, cafe, bike hire and boathouse offering watersports, kayak and SUP rentals.
Like most of North Wales, the main drawback is the lack of public transport. A car is essential in these parts, especially if you want to explore further afield and chase some waterfalls. Luckily, the hotel is the perfect base for exploring the Lake Vyrnwy area, with forest trails accessible right from the doorstep. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here
Lake Vrynwy is an excellent place to start a trail or hike through the 24,000-acre RSPB Reserve.(Image: Portia Jones )
Accommodation-wise, it’s one of the best places to stay in the area and delivers everything you’d expect from a four-star stay, paired with a good measure of historic character. There’s an on-site restaurant serving Welsh-inspired dishes and elegant afternoon teas, and a grand drawing room that nods to the hotel’s Victorian roots.
The glass-fronted spa, complete with a whirlpool and far-reaching lake views, is a great spot to unwind. And naturally, there’s a bar with a view worth lingering over.
Accommodation options here include a mix of garden and lake view rooms, though I strongly recommend you get a lake room with a balcony for maximum viewing pleasure.
Winter is a lovely time to visit (Image: Ian Cooper/North Wales Live)
Rooms feature the expected amenities: private bathrooms with walk-in showers, bathrobes, free toiletries, tea and coffee makers, work desks, and flat-screen TVs. For a small fee, a few dog-friendly rooms are also available, welcoming well-behaved pups.
Our lakeview room was comfortably sized and full of classic country-house charm. It had a private balcony, heavy drapes, and traditional furniture that gave ‘House of Guinness’ vibes.
Morning coffee with a view(Image: Portia Jones )
The décor leans more timeless than trendy, more character over contemporary flair, but that’s part of the appeal. After all, you don’t come to Lake Vyrnwy for sleek design and statement lighting; you come for that view.
Opt for a lake-facing room and you’ll be rewarded with sensational sunsets best enjoyed from the balcony, drink in hand, as the sun dips below the horizon.
The spa and wellness centre also enjoys lake views from a sun trap terrace, a big bubbly hot tub, and heated loungers. The ‘thermal suite’ offering includes Showers of Monsoon & Fragrant Mist, which blends cold and warm water and promises a “multi-sensory experience.”
Lake Vyrnwy Hotel & Spa(Image: Christie & Co, Hotels)
There’s also a salt Steam and sauna. Treatment-wise, you have a range of massages and facials to soothe tired limbs and scrub faces squeaky clean.
Push the boat out and book the Champagne & Truffles deluxe treatment for a luxury facial that combines truffle skincare with specialist lifting massage techniques.
The Tower Restaurant is the hotel’s main dining option. It serves breakfast, afternoon tea, and classic British cuisine with a Welsh twist. Typical plates include Welsh beef fillet, Coconut salmon fillet curry, pan-fried seabass fillets, and roast duck two ways.
We went all in on the mains: a Welsh lamb rump for me and a parmesan-crusted chicken breast for my husband. Now, I’m outrageously fussy with lamb. If it’s not blushing in the middle, I’m not interested; it may as well be shoe leather.
The Tower Restaurant is the hotel’s main dining option(Image: Lake Vyrnwy Hotel and Spa)
Thankfully, the chef understood the assignment. A gloriously pink, tender cut that practically melted on the fork arrived. It came served with a red wine jus and a rich and creamy sweet potato dauphinoise, a delicious variation of the classic French dish that added sweetness to the plate.
The chicken, meanwhile, was a pan-seared, parmesan-crusted delight accompanied by herb mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and a rich lemon-basil butter sauce that was divine.
The food and service were spot on. The interior décor is a little more understated, leaning on the stunning lake views rather than making a bold design statement. A few updates could help the space shine, but the view and the food more than make up for it
If the weather’s behaving, dine alfresco on the terrace and soak up lake views instead. Afterwards, pop to the Tavern bar for a bevvy in relaxed surroundings. If it’s a warm night, sip your wine outside and enjoy the stillness and soothing sounds of nature. Bliss.
Views at dinner are dreamy(Image: Christie & Co, Hotels)
Lake Vyrnwy Hotel might not have the flashiest interiors, but who cares when the views are absolutely unbeatable and the service is top-notch? With a glass of fizz in hand, watching the sun dip over the forest-framed reservoir, it feels like being in the Alps without the enormous price tag.
I genuinely think it’s one of the best places in the country for unrivalled panoramas, and I don’t think I’ve ever had such a spectacular view from a hotel room.
Winter is a particularly magical time to visit, with crisp air, moody skies, and a peacefulness that makes the lake and surrounding hills feel all the more cinematic. If you’re looking for a lakeside escape, I would definitely put this one on your travel list.
Book your stay through the Rarebits Collection website, or call 01570 470785.