I came back from Edinburgh thoroughly charmed. The Scottish capital might not have the same buzz as London or attitude as New York, but it’s got a magnetism all its own. The famous Scottish sense of humor is no exaggeration—I cried/laughed so hard at the Fringe Festival my abs hurt the next day—and neither are the views (there is a literal castle perched on top of the city). It’s beautiful; it’s walkable; it’s just a little spooky. It’s worth considering for your next vacation!

On a recent trip, courtesy of hometown hero and royalty-loved accessories brand Strathberry, I discovered that this vibrant city has a lot to offer, including world-class food, culture, and fashion. I visited the Georgian townhouse where Kate Middleton’s famous clutches are designed, toured the graveyard that inspired many a Harry Potter character, and even tried a kebab version of haggis that had me wondering why the Scottish delicacy gets a bad rap.

Though I was only in Edinburgh for a few days, I’m already itching to plan a return trip. Ahead, discover everything I packed and shopped, the sights I saw, and the cobblestone streets I walked. Plus, what all the cool girls wear in the rain in this iteration of Travel InStyle.

How I Got There

Clockwise from left: The Lobby of the Kimpton Charlotte Square, Edinburgh Castle, Burrata at Baba.

Courtesy of Madeline Hirsch / InStyle

Believe it or not, the flight from NYC to Edinburgh is less than seven hours… just enough time to tuck in for a rom-com rewatch and some reading for pleasure. By the time I landed and arrived at the Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel, I was ready to explore.

The Kimpton is exactly what I love in a hotel. Its grand Georgian facade is pure Old World glamour, while its lobby and rooms blend luxe modernity with historic touches. The location also just can’t be beat. Nestled on the edge of a private park in Edinburgh’s New Town area, staying here means you’re just a walk away from the historic Old Town neighborhood and the Royal Mile, a cultural thoroughfare that runs from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace. The first thing I did after checking in, of course, was hit the hotel’s acclaimed restaurant, Baba. This Middle Eastern and Scottish fusion dining experience boasts savory mezze, delightful haggis skewers (seriously!), and the best harrissa-spiced burrata I’ve ever encountered.

Best of all? This hotel lobby is beyond chic—designed with a colorful, eclectic aesthetic that speaks to my own heart—and inviting enough that I looked forward to hanging out in the in-between moments of my trip.

What I Wore

My outfits for 3 days in Edinburgh.

Courtesy of Madeline Hirsch / InStyle

Getting dressed in Scotland is a challenge, I won’t lie to you. The weather is wont to change at a moment’s notice, and there’s always a chance of rain. The city sits far north enough that the sun sets early in the fall, and the temperatures plunge along with it. The bottom line? Bring layers—lots of layers—and be ready to shed from or add to your look at a moment’s notice. Did I forget to mention an umbrella? Because you’re going to want it for sprinkles throughout the day.

For a Visit to the Strathberry Workshop

Outside Strathberry HQ in Edinburgh.

Madeline Hirsch

Getting ready for a tour of what is basically bag heaven (more on that later), I opted for an old black dress from Reformation (this one is similar!), a vintage cardigan, and Tory Burch ballet flats. This look is layer-forward (so I never get too hot or cold) and makes for easy walking through the city. Plus, who doesn’t love the pop of a bright red sweater over your shoulders?

Obviously, I grabbed my Strathberry midi tote in burgundy embossed croc for the occasion…When in Edinburgh, am I right?

For a Whiskey Tasting

The view from the Johnny Walker Experience rooftop bar.

Madeline Hirsch

Some of the best views in the city are from the rooftop bar at the Johnny Walker Experience. I dressed for the moment in a pair of ballet sneakers (yes, these are the viral pair from Vivaia), some sunnies (the sun made a rare but welcome appearance), a white button-down, and my favorite Miu Miu skirt.

For Dinner and a Show

Walking in Edinburgh’s New Town neighborhood.

Madeline Hirsch

A double denim look never fails when dressing for unpredictable weather, making this Farm Rio jacket the fashion hero of my trip. At night, I wore it belted over jeans; during the day, I kept it open over dresses and skirts. It’s the perfect wear-everywhere jacket. It also looks great with a plaid umbrella.

Where I Shopped

Clockwise from left: The Strathberry handbag workshop, display, townhouse, and Victoria St. store.

Courtesy of Madeline Hirsch / InStyle

My lovely hosts at Strathberry gave me the scoop on all things handbags when I visited the brand’s headquarters in Edinburgh. Housed in a gorgeous Georgian townhouse, the team’s HQ boasts a workshop, where you can watch as one of the artisans mends, constructs, and tests the famous Mosaic Bag; an airy meeting room, where the latest and greatest campaigns are displayed on the walls; and an archive of the best Strathberry bags through the years. It was basically like being in bag heaven, and I spent the good part of an hour marveling over the colorways, shapes, and special collaborations featured in the archive.

I also made my way to the Strathberry store on the famous Victoria Street, a colorful, winding walkway with enough bars, independent boutiques, and Medieval architecture to keep you busy for hours. It’s a must-see!

What I Saw

Clockwise from left: The Spence, Shitfaced Shakespeare, Johnnie Walker whisky.

Courtesy of Madeline Hirsch / InStyle

Edinburgh nightlife has a few signatures. The first is the Fringe Festival, the world’s largest performing arts festival that runs in the city every August. And I was thrilled to catch the tail end of it during my trip.

I attended a movie buff quiz show (and lost with grace), but my favorite performance was the Shit-Faced Shakespeare rendition of A Midsummer Night’s Dream. For the uninitiated, a troupe of Shakespearean actors aims to perform one of the Bard’s great plays… except one of them is actively wasted. Yes, really. Chaos ensues, and watching these stage pros riff and rhyme through the madness made me cry with laughter.

Another Edinburgh mainstay is whiskey. Scotch whisky is one of the country’s biggest exports, and I had the opportunity to sample some of the best at Johnnie Walker. I experienced one of the brand’s immersive tastings, took a tour of the facility, learned about its history, and visited one of its rooftop bars with a stunning view of Edinburgh Castle. It’s a charming, thoroughly Scottish story—complete with a live performance and plenty of whisky—that’s not to be missed.

Finally, don’t sleep on the culinary scene. There’s a thriving community of restaurants offering everything from pan-European to traditional Scottish fare. For some glorious pappardelle, try Tipo on Hanover St. If it’s moules frites and venison you’re craving, Outsider in the George IV Bridge area will hit the spot. And if you’re interested in grand views, look no further than The Spence, housed in the old banking hall of the Gleneagles townhouse. With its retro cocktail bar, vaulted ceilings, and stunning finishes, this restaurant is a destination all its own.

Last but not least, the quintessential Edinburgh experience is an amble through the grounds of Edinburgh Castle. Visit the old graveyards and see if you can spot a few famous literary names, or book a full-on magical wizarding tour. Walking winding pathways up and down the city’s terrain, past crumbling facades and ancient structures, feels like time-traveling into the age of Macbeth.

For history, mystery, and a laugh, there’s no better getaway than Edinburgh.