Named one of the UK’s ‘most beautiful’ places this unusual village is hosting a Christmas market – but only for the briefest of periodsThis article contains affiliate links, we will receive a commission on any sales we generate from it. Learn more
Portmeirion has a unique place among the many special options to visit in Wales(Image: Portmeirion Cyf)
Inspired by Portofino’s multicoloured façades Portmeirion is a uniquely-constructed tourist village that offers a slice of Italy on the bracing Welsh coast and makes for an unusual festive day out. Named one of the UK’s most beautiful places by Time Out the pretty village is one of Wales’ most popular attractions and is hosting a Christmas market this holiday season for one weekend only in December.
Portmeirion isn’t quite like the other villages in Wales. There are no permanent residents at Portmeirion as it’s designed for tourists who pay an entrance fee to wander around its colourful Italianate buildings.
This whimsical village was born out of the long-held ambition of its founder, architect Clough Williams-Ellis. His creative vision for an Italianate-style, private peninsula village on the Welsh coast resulted in a charming tourist destination with a Mediterranean feel.
While many think of the village as the indulgent whimsy of an eccentric architect Williams-Ellis recognised the value of tourism to the Welsh economy. He had a clear vision for managed tourism and sustainability, clearly hugely ahead of the curve.
I love Portmeirion (Image: Portia Jones)
Williams-Ellis acquired the wilderness site in 1925 and dedicated his life to developing this run-down peninsula into a popular coastal attraction.
He drew heavily from the coloured façades of Portofino resulting in dream-like pastel-coloured buildings, ornamental gardens, and piazzas with fancy fountains and a giant chess set.
Alongside its unique architectural heritage the private ticketed site features two swanky hotels, self-catering cottages, an indulgent spa, gift shops, cafes, restaurants, and an authentic Italian-style gelateria.
Portmeirion also has a range of well-heeled and bespoke shops including the world’s only Prisoner TV Show Shop. Here you can buy memorabilia from the show, including maps, badges, Village Foods tins, and figures.
There’s something for just about everyone(Image: Portia Jones)
Elsewhere you’ll find Welsh language and tourism books at the bookstore, a curated collection of gifts and local products at The Ship Shop, Welsh produce, and Portmeirion’s very own wine and champagne at Pot Jam.
Sitting on the coast the 130-acre site is also set amid woodlands and carefully manicured gardens offering some of the most stunning scenery in Wales. They’re magical in spring for its blooms or in late autumn for its vibrant colours.
Portmeirion may be a summertime favourite but winter is just as lovely. It’s perfect for festive shopping and a cosy overnight stay by the sea.
There’s a festive feel about the place come December(Image: Portmeirion Cyf)
Christmas in Portmeirion feels truly magical. Christmas trees sparkle around the quirky village and both the hotel and the castle are dressed beautifully for the season.
From December 5-7 the Portmeirion Christmas Fair brings the place to life with local food, drinks, gifts and plenty of entertainment in a wonderfully whimsical setting for one weekend only.
You’ll find artisan stalls showcasing the best Welsh produce along with a full line-up of entertainment for the whole family.
Want to make a weekend of it? You can stay overnight in Portmeirion during the festive season and take advantage of fewer crowds as the daytrippers head home. During the day the site is typically packed with people who come for the colourful architecture, cafes, and spa (especially in summer).
Stallholder Christine Lambe at Portmeirion Christmas Food & Craft Fair in 2024(Image: Arwyn Roberts)
By night, however, Portmeirion empties, leaving only the overnight guests who stay in one of the quirky ‘village rooms’ or in one of two luxury four-star hotels – Castell Deudraeth and Hotel Portmeirion. Read my review of staying overnight in Portmeirion here.
The flagship spot to stay is the four-star Hotel Portmeirion, lovingly converted from an old Victorian villa. It was opened in 1926 by Williams-Ellis to much fanfare.
The hotel has undergone refurbishments over the years to modernise its style while retaining some original features. The Grade II-listed hotel is also famous for being the place where English playwright Noel Coward wrote Blithe Spirit in 1941.
It feels very stately with its cosy sofas set around an Italian-style fireplace and Art Deco-inspired design in the bar and dining room.
As the day rolls on the crowds start to leave(Image: Portia Jones )
The other impressive accommodation, Castell Deudraeth, is a four-star Victorian castellated mansion built by David Williams with 11 modern, spacious rooms.
In the heart of Portmeirion village you’ll also find 32 individually-designed rooms with swish décor. These charming accommodations combine the comforts of a traditional hotel with the bonus of being located right inside the vibrant village.
The village has plenty of dining options for daytrippers from cafes to a 1950s-style bar and even an Italian gelateria. Opening days and hours depend on the season so it’s always worth checking ahead first.
The bonus of staying the night in Portmeirion, though, is having a fancy dinner at one of the village’s two full-service restaurants without huge crowds.
The village has plenty of dining options(Image: Portia Jones)
Dinner-wise Castell Deudraeth offers an à la carte menu with delectable dishes such as ChalkStream trout en croute, Welsh lamb rump, and Thai steamed mussels.
Over in the Portmeirion Hotel dining room you can indulge in a six-course gourmet menu for £100. With its elegant décor and sweeping views of the estuary this award-winning Art Deco restaurant offers a refined dining experience rooted in the local landscape.
Executive head chef Mark Threadgill and his skilled team, led by head chef Daniel Griffiths, work their culinary magic in the kitchen. They source the finest local ingredients, some even foraged from within the village, to craft a distinctive modern Welsh cuisine. Lush.