And it is easy to slip into the part of Ebeneezer Scrooge and dwell on the familiar complaints about Edinburgh’s Christmas markets – now ranked among the best in the world and drawing millions each year – from steep prices to overcrowding and the commercialisation of our public spaces.
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As The Herald’s Arts Correspondent Brian Ferguson rightly argued this week, there is so much more to the city at Christmas than its traditional markets and rides.
Yet love them or loathe them, they are impossible to ignore — not only for their luminous presence on the city centre’s skyline, but because they’re worth an estimated £150 million to Edinburgh each winter.
It had been two years since I’d last visited, skipping last year after my previous festive foray in 2023 left me underwhelmed; sipping lukewarm, overpriced mulled wine that barely took the chill off and left me longing for a cosy seat in a pub.
So, in the spirit of Christmas, and with a hint of trepidation, I headed along to the markets to challenge my own memories and assumptions, to discover what’s changed and how it truly feels for a local weaving through the crowds.
Crossing Waverley Bridge, it’s impossible to overlook the spectacular view to the west: the bright, colourful lights of the Star Flyer and Big Wheel illuminating the night sky, the Scott Monument glowing in purple and blue, and lines of Christmas lights leading the eye toward the magnificent National Galleries, bathed in its own radiant glow.
My first thought is that the heart of ‘Edinburgh’s Christmas’ looks far better from the outside than it feels on the inside, though I tell myself to reserve judgment for now.
And inside, I’m genuinely and pleasantly surprised.
Yes, I still end up clutching an unreasonably expensive, notably small drink, and I’m not remotely tempted by the rides.
But compared to previous visits, the markets feel less crowded and claustrophobic. Perhaps that’s because it’s midweek and not quite December yet, but the layout seems more spacious, with structures spread out to give room to move – and breathe.
Snaking my way along the well-lit paths of East Princes Street Gardens from the Market Street entrance, the walk alone feels worth the visit. Entry remains free – perhaps the only thing that is – and the gardens themselves offer a welcome escape from the bustle above.
Before the markets open, the gates would typically close around 6pm during the autumn months. Now, however, they remain open well into the evening, transforming the gardens into a vibrant space.
The late access gives life to the park at a time of year when residents, shoppers and visitors may crave a peaceful escape from the throng of people and traffic nearby on Princes Street and in the Old Town.
I don’t stay long, but I take a stroll through the main markets at street level. This time, I don’t feel as overwhelmed by the experience as I have in previous years. I even stay for some food – crispy hash browns topped with cheese and gravy – and eat while taking in the festive sights and lights around me.
At that moment, I realise I’m actually feeling festive – something I usually fend off, almost subconsciously, until at least December 1.
Perhaps Edinburgh’s markets deserve criticism – they could do more to feel inclusive, especially for those who aren’t in a position to spend on food, drink, or amusement rides.
Even so, there’s value in the experience: a touch of seasonal atmosphere, the soft glow of lights against the night sky, and the chance to see the gardens in a different light. For that reason alone, it’s worth considering a visit.