There’s nothing like a bit of sea air on a frosty morningThis article contains affiliate links, we will receive a commission on any sales we generate from it. Learn more
I love this beach in winter(Image: Portia Jones )
I’m going to make a bold claim and say that winter is actually the best time for a seaside escape in Wales. The chaos of summer slides away, parking becomes vaguely civilised, and the coastline suddenly feels like it’s reverted to its natural state – windswept, dramatic, and not full of people setting up a mini festive site playing terrible music.
For me winter beaches are quieter, wilder, and strangely more rewarding than the peak-season chaos. Our popular spots are empty of summer tourists and you can plod along the sands of Rhossili, Barafundle, Poppit Sands, Ogmore, and Langland in relative peace, especially if you’re an early riser like me.
As an overworked travel writer (my editors may disagree) I clearly need a chilled-out coastal escape away from the tyranny of emails and deadlines. On a frosty weekend I returned to one of my favourite spots in Wales: Pendine, in Carmarthenshire, for a much-needed reset.
This small village is renowned for its seven-mile stretch of spectacular sandy beach, each end offering a unique coastal experience. To the west, near Gilman Point, dramatic cliffs overlook rock pools and picturesque trails that form part of the 870-mile Wales Coast Path.
Winter is the best time to visit if you want the beach to yourself (Image: Portia Jones )
In contrast the eastern expanse, known as Laugharne Sands, features flat, golden sands that are famous for hosting historic land-speed record attempts and remain a hub for thrill-seekers.
But Pendine isn’t just about the glorious sweep of sand – it’s also a gateway to scenic coastal walks, outdoor activities, and a unique museum celebrating land speed records.
In peak season the village attracts hordes of visitors, which is why I had returned for a quiet winter break with fewer crowds and affordable accommodation. One of my favourite stays in this area is a modern hotel perched right on the beach.
Caban Pendine is an excellent choice if you’re looking for a budget-friendly seaside getaway. There are 14 rooms at Caban including spacious family rooms (some with bunk beds), mobility-accessible rooms, and dog-friendly rooms.
You can book the room that best suits your needs though I definitely recommend a sea view room if you can get one.
I love this hotel for its location alone. It’s ideally situated right next to Pendine Sands making it perfect for long sunset strolls, even in winter.
This affordable hotel currently has a winter offer in January and February: two nights for the price of one when you book direct. Lush.
Caban, Pendine, with the Museum of Land Speed on the right(Image: Carmarthenshire Council)
The hotel is ideally positioned for exploring Carmarthenshire and Pendine Sands – a seven-mile stretch of firm, golden sand along Carmarthen Bay, one of Wales’ most distinctive coastal features with a unique racing history.
In the 1920s these sands became a proving ground for record-breaking land speed attempts earning Pendine a reputation that still resonates with motoring enthusiasts.
The vast beach has firm sand and is dog-friendly in the off-season making it ideal for a long winter walk in Wales.
Starting at the western end near Gilman Point you’ll find rugged cliffs and rock pools worth exploring. Heading east the sands stretch seemingly endlessly offering a chance to enjoy uninterrupted sea views.
This part of the coast is also used as a Ministry of Defence firing range so parts may be inaccessible at certain times – a detail worth checking ahead of your visit.
Pendine Sands has served multiple purposes over the years, from high-speed records to wartime training exercises, and its layered history adds to its appeal. It’s a quieter place these days but the sense of scale and openness remains as striking as ever.
Pendine has a vast sandy beach extending as far as the eye can see (Image: Visit Wales/Crown Copyright)
For more than 100 years Pendine Sands has been synonymous with land speed records. Its unique terrain, a natural runway of compacted sand, offered an ideal proving ground for early 20th-century speed pioneers.
By the 1920s Pendine had become the go-to location for land speed record attempts where racing boundaries were pushed to exhilarating new heights.
In 1924 Sir Malcolm Campbell, a racing legend, brought his Sunbeam 350HP car, aptly named Blue Bird, to Pendine.
With the sands as his canvas Sir Malcolm made history by setting a new world land speed record at 146.16 mph. The following year his thirst for speed saw him return, breaking his own record with a remarkable 150.76 mph. These feats cemented Pendine’s reputation as the ultimate stage for motoring glory.
Not to be outdone Welsh-born engineer and driver JG Parry-Thomas rose to the challenge. In 1926 he piloted his custom-built car, Babs, to a new record of 169.3 mph, showcasing innovative engineering and daring driving.
Racing on Pendine(Image: Worldreach)
Tragically Parry-Thomas’ pursuit of speed ended in 1927 when he was fatally injured attempting to reclaim the title. His car, buried on the sands after the accident, was later recovered and restored, symbolising the danger and determination that defined this era of racing.
Pendine Sands’ legacy went quiet for much of the 20th century until modern speed enthusiasts returned it to the spotlight.
In 2015 actor Idris Elba honoured the sands’ rich heritage by setting a new Flying Mile record, reaching 180.361 mph in a Bentley Continental GT Speed. His achievement was a poignant nod to the daring pioneers who had blazed the trail almost a century before.
Today Pendine Sands is celebrated as a historic hub of motorsport and engineering brilliance and its racing legacy is now preserved in the Museum of Land Speed, which I really recommend visiting.
The modern Museum of Land Speed at Pendine Sands is a tribute to the rich history of land speed record attempts on Pendine Beach’s famous sands – located right where history was made.
The Museum of Land Speed(Image: Portia Jones )
The museum overlooks the beach and is packed with artefacts, memorabilia, and stories about the daring feats of speed achieved on this historic stretch of coastline.
One of the museum’s highlights is its display of vehicles that have set land speed records on Pendine Beach over the years.
From the Blue Bird to Babs you can get an up-close look at engineering marvels and technological innovations that propelled these vehicles to record-breaking speeds.
Interactive exhibits also let you delve into the stories of these speed pioneers making it a must-see if you’re interested in motorsport or engineering.
Pendine is not just about its famous sands. It’s also a gateway to the Wales Coast Path, stretching 870 miles around the country’s coastline. The section near Pendine offers dramatic clifftop views and a chance to spot local wildlife.
The trail leads west to the picturesque cove of Amroth while the eastward route promises sweeping views of the Gower Peninsula and Carmarthen Bay.
I love a beach walk in winter(Image: Portia Jones )
Walking here in winter is an entirely different experience. The quieter paths, crisp air, and dramatic seascapes make it feel like you have the coast to yourself, which I love.
Be sure to pack sturdy boots, as parts of the path can be muddy after rain, but the effort is well worth it for the epic coastal scenery.
So yes I am fully committing to the opinion that winter is the best time to visit the glorious Welsh coast and I will happily die on this windswept hill.
You get cheaper places to stay, quieter beaches, and coastal paths where you can plod along and hardly see another soul.
If you need a hard reset Wales in winter does the job nicely. Bring a coat, book the sea view, and enjoy the luxury of having the coastline almost entirely to yourself, especially if you are up at the crack of dawn. You can thank me later.
Where to eat in Pendine
Pendine Sands(Image: Wales Online)
Bistro on the Bay
For the best ocean view head to the Bistro on the Bay. Perched right on the beachfront this licensed bistro serves breakfast, lunch, and evening meals and offers entertainment including cabaret nights.
The breakfast and small plate menus are full of tasty options but the eggs benedict and American pancakes are standouts.
The best part? It’s dog-friendly so you can bring your four-legged pal along while enjoying what might be the best beach view in Pendine. For the latest restaurant news and reviews sign up to our food and drink newsletter here.
Cambrian Ice Cream
Loved by Welsh celebs like Joanna Page and Wynne Evans Cambrian Ice Cream offers a variety of lush flavours.
Visit the parlour to grab a cone of salted caramel, strawberry, or mango sorbet and browse for gifts and seaside goodies.
Springwell Inn
You can’t go wrong with the dog-friendly inn for proper pub food. It’s super cosy and serves all the classics you’d expect like pies, fish and chips, and a cracking Sunday roast. It’s right near the beach, too, making it perfect for a post-walk pint and a hearty meal to end the day.
Stay at Caban
Inside the Caban Pendine Hotel(Image: Portia Jones )
If you’re after a budget-friendly break by the sea Caban Pendine is a great shout with spacious rooms starting from around £65 per person a night.
It’s modern, comfortable, and perfectly located for enjoying the beautiful Carmarthenshire coast without breaking the bank.
The hotel is right by Pendine Sands and is perfectly positioned for long walks or even a chilly dip in the sea if you’re feeling brave. Plus, with the ocean practically on your doorstep, you’ll fall asleep to the sound of the waves. How dreamy is that?
One of the standouts here is the seafront restaurant, which serves up proper Welsh food made with fresh local ingredients. The prices are a real bonus too.
Their full-cooked breakfast is just £7 – if you’ve got a sweet tooth the pancakes with maple syrup are recommended. That’s your morning sorted before heading out to explore.
Travel tips for Pendine and Carmarthenshire
Planning a visit to Pendine and Carmarthenshire? Here are some practical tips to ensure your trip goes smoothly:
- Parking: A large car park is located next to Pendine Sands making it convenient for beach access and exploring the village. Parking is generally easier to find in the off-season but it can fill up during peak summer days.
- Beach access for dogs: Dogs are welcome on most parts of Pendine Sands during the autumn and winter months. However restrictions apply between the slipways from May to the end of September so check signage if visiting in summer.
- Wales Coast Path: The coastal path around Pendine offers stunning clifftop views and is well-signposted. Wear sturdy footwear, especially after rain, as some sections can get muddy. If hiking in winter pack warm layers and be mindful of shorter daylight hours.
- Nearby amenities: Public toilets are available near the beach and the village has several cafes and small shops within walking distance. These are perfect for warming up after a chilly day outdoors.
- Military firing range: Parts of Pendine Sands are occasionally used as a Ministry of Defence firing range, which may limit access. Check for notices or restrictions before heading out.
- Best times to visit: Winter is ideal for quieter walks and uninterrupted views while summer brings a livelier atmosphere with more local events. Spring and autumn strike a nice balance with milder weather and fewer visitors.
- Local wildlife and tides: Check tide times if exploring rock pools or walking further along the sands. The area is home to various seabirds and marine life so it’s a great spot for nature lovers.