{"id":248520,"date":"2025-07-08T17:14:35","date_gmt":"2025-07-08T17:14:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/248520\/"},"modified":"2025-07-08T17:14:35","modified_gmt":"2025-07-08T17:14:35","slug":"the-unsung-spanish-city-thats-a-great-alternative-to-san-sebastian","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/248520\/","title":{"rendered":"The unsung Spanish city that\u2019s a great alternative to San Sebastian"},"content":{"rendered":"

San Sebastian may hog the headlines when it comes to prize-winning pintxos and f\u00eated fine dining, but head an hour\u2019s drive to the south and you\u2019ll find Vitoria-Gasteiz, the Basque Country\u2019s capital since 1980 and very much the unsung jewel in the region\u2019s culinary crown.<\/p>\n

Around gothic cathedrals, Renaissance palaces and superb museums, the narrow lanes of Vitoria\u2019s hilltop medieval old town are lined with bars competing to offer the most innovative and tantalising pintxos. But unlike in neighbouring San Sebastian or Bilbao, you won\u2019t have to elbow your way past throngs of tourists to get a seat at the bar.<\/p>\n

If that isn\u2019t enough to convince you, Vitoria is one of the greenest \u2014 in every sense of the word \u2014 cities in Europe. Named European Green Capital in 2012 and Global Green City in 2019, much of the centre is traffic-free and a 19 mile-long \u201cgreen ring\u201d taking in parks and forests encircles the city. <\/p>\n

\"Church<\/p>\n

The church and tower of San Vicente in the old town<\/p>\n

ALAMY<\/p>\n

48 hours in Vitoria-Gasteiz \u2014 at a glanceDay one<\/p>\n

\u2022 Morning: <\/b> La Torre de San Vicente and the old town
\u2022 Eat at: <\/b>Sukalki
\u2022 Afternoon: <\/b>Museum hopping
\u2022 Drink at:<\/b> El Tolo\u00f1o
\u2022 Evening: <\/b>Explore the Santa Maria Cathedral
\u2022 Eat at: <\/b>El Portalon<\/p>\n

Day two<\/p>\n

\u2022 Morning: <\/b>Caf\u00e9 culture and boutique shopping
\u2022 Eat at: <\/b>Mercado de Abastos
\u2022 Afternoon: <\/b>Paseo de la Senda and the fine art museum
\u2022 Drink at: <\/b>Sagartoki
\u2022 Evening: <\/b>La Florida Park
\u2022 Eat at: <\/b>Kea<\/p>\n

\"Plaza<\/p>\n

Don\u2019t miss the colonnaded Plaza de Espa\u00f1a<\/p>\n

ALAMY<\/p>\n

What to see and do<\/p>\n

\u2022 Start your day with a steep climb, then gaze down across Vitoria\u2019s spires, parks and rooftops from the top of the 16th-century Torre de San Vicente church bell tower. Later, explore the palaces and churches found along the medieval lanes of the old town (walking tours from \u00a321; kalearte.com). <\/p>\n

\u2022 Meaning \u201ctwo in one\u201d in the Basque language, BIBAT is home to a duo of museums. In the Renaissance Benda\u00f1a Palace the fascinating Fournier Museum holds one of the world\u2019s foremost collections of playing cards, with packs dating to the 15th century. The collection was the brainchild of F\u00e9lix Alfaro Fournier, whose grandfather Heraclio Fournier founded the Vitoria-based Fournier company, a prominent manufacturer of playing cards. Next-door, the Alava Archaeological Museum has an amazing array of treasures found in the surrounding Basque area from prehistoric times to the Middle Ages (free; vitoria-gasteiz.org).<\/p>\n

\u2022 Take a tour of Vitoria\u2019s monumental Santa Maria Cathedral, which dates to the 13th century, and discover the underground crypt and parapet walkway. The sound and light show at the end is especially impressive, with vividly coloured projections showing you how the original portico would have looked in the Middle Ages (from \u00a38; catedralvitoria.eus).<\/p>\n

\u2022 Browse the independent boutiques, delis and chichi chocolate shops along the tree-lined avenues around the central Plaza de la Virgen Blanca in Vitoria\u2019s newer \u201cexpansion\u201d part of the city, built in the 18th and 19th centuries. Don\u2019t miss the colonnaded Plaza de Espa\u00f1a with its majestic town hall and caf\u00e9 terraces.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Take a leisurely stroll along Paseo de la Senda, a leafy pedestrianised avenue lined with accordion-playing buskers and belle \u00e9poque mansions and palaces. Stop at the grand Palacio Augustin-Zulueta (est 1912), which is now home to the Museo de Bellas Artes de Alava (fine arts museum) showcasing impressive works of Basque art from 1850 to 1950 (free; vitoria-gasteiz.org).<\/p>\n

\u2022 You can almost feel the clean air fill your lungs as you walk among the grottoes, ornate garden and landscaped lawns of Vitoria\u2019s central La Florida Park. Created in 1820 and less than ten minutes\u2019 walk from the old town, it was inspired by the romantic gardens of France and comes with a 19th-century bandstand that hosts concerts and dances during the summer.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/p>\n

The Museo de Bellas Artes de Alava is free to visit<\/p>\n

ALAMY<\/p>\n

Where to eat and drinkSukalki <\/p>\n

Join local couples, young families and elderly ladies lunching at this hip pioneer of slow food (and the zero-miles ethos) in the city. A blackboard at the back of the restaurant illustrates where the fish, meat, olive oil and salt are sourced from. Don\u2019t miss the crayfish carpaccio and the wonderfully woody, wild mushroom and truffle croquettes (mains from \u00a310; sukalki.com).<\/p>\n

\u2022 10 of Spain\u2019s best cities for food<\/b><\/a><\/p>\n

\"Woman<\/p>\n

El Tolo\u00f1o is a beloved pintxos bar<\/p>\n

FOTO AYTO VITORIA-GASTEIZ\/CESAR SAN MILLAN<\/p>\n

El Tolo\u00f1o <\/p>\n

Poured from a height, the region\u2019s crisp txakoli (a slightly sparkling white) is best savoured at one of Vitoria\u2019s beloved (and rightly lauded) pintxos bars on the edge of the main Plaza de la Virgen Blanca square. The classic Basque \u201cGilda\u201d pintxos \u2014 a stick stacked with punchy green olives, anchovies and hot green peppers \u2014 here are exceptional (wine from \u00a31, pintxo from \u00a34; tolonobar.com).<\/p>\n

\u2022 Read our guide to <\/b>San Sebastian<\/b><\/a><\/p>\n

El Portalon<\/p>\n

Settle on to a 15th-century wooden bench surrounded by antique bellows, burnished copper and wooden beams at Vitoria\u2019s oldest and most famous restaurant. This is the place for traditional dishes such as fresh local spider crab with carrots and leeks, or bean and clam casserole, as well as tenderly roasted meat and fish (mains from \u00a319; restauranteelportalon.com).<\/p>\n

\"Interior<\/p>\n

Mercado de Abastos is an excellent indoor food market<\/p>\n

Mercado de Abastos <\/p>\n

Vitoria\u2019s excellent indoor food market makes for the perfect pitstop. Not only can you ogle fabulous displays of plump tomatoes, olives and hams, and cheeses galore, including the Basque smoked Idiazabal, but the great value Hazia bar and restaurant (\u00a319 for three courses; haziaberri.com) dishes up top-notch local fare. Look out for crispy on the outside, rich on the inside beef croquettes, and hake in salsa verde. Alternatively head to the entrance of the market where the Basque wine estate Eguren Ugarte offers expert wine, cheese and chocolate tastings (from \u00a315; egurenugarte.com).<\/p>\n

Sagartoki <\/p>\n

Rub shoulders with politicians from the regional Basque government building nearby as you sip Basque ciders, wines and cocktails and dine on gourmet pintxos in Sagartoki\u2019s flashy interior, complete with DJ decks. Try the prize-winning fried egg and truffle pintxo (cocktails from \u00a37, pintxo from \u00a32; sagartoki.com). <\/p>\n

\u2022 14 of the best affordable hotels in Spain for under \u00a3150<\/b><\/a><\/p>\n

\"Kea<\/p>\n

Kea is on the edge of the old town<\/p>\n

Kea <\/b><\/p>\n

There\u2019s a hushed air of calm at the minimalist, Michelin-rated Kea on the edge of the old town. Zen-like states are broken only by the sound of the flames crackling on the Josper grill, where tattooed chefs sizzle T-bone steaks, beef ribs and fish. The soft, flaking, garlicky hake in tempura batter with salsa verde is exceptional, and oenophiles will enjoy the extensive wine list (mains from \u00a317; keabasque.com). <\/p>\n

This article contains affiliate links that can earn us revenue<\/p>\n

Where to stay Kora Green City\"Rooftop<\/p>\n

Views from the rooftop pool at Kora Green City<\/p>\n

An eco escape<\/b>
Just over the road from the Mercado Abastos and not far from Vitoria\u2019s main railway station, these contemporary studios and apartments have an abundance of green credentials. The hotel uses 100 per cent renewable energy and guests receive WhatsApp messages explaining how much CO2 they have helped to offset during their stay. Enjoy sweeping views from the rooftop pool, access to co-working spaces, and free yoga and mindfulness classes (room-only apartments from \u00a358; koragreencity.com).<\/p>\n

Hotel Nirea\"Hotel<\/p>\n

Hotel Nirea is a converted townhouse<\/p>\n

A boutique bolt hole <\/b>
In the heart of Vitoria\u2019s main shopping area, this converted fin-de-si\u00e8cle townhouse couldn\u2019t be more central. The 20 rooms have a pared down, contemporary vibe with quality white linens and black-and-white framed photographs on the walls. The hotel has an arrangement with a caf\u00e9 next door to offer guests breakfast for less than \u00a38, but there are also plenty of great pavement caf\u00e9s nearby to try too (room-only doubles from \u00a363; nireahotel.com).<\/p>\n

NH Canciller Ayala\"Hotel<\/p>\n

NH Canciller Ayala is less than ten minutes\u2019 walk from the old town<\/p>\n

Park views and lavish breakfasts <\/b>
By the elegant La Florida Park, this makes an ideal base for seeing the city. Rooms are comfortable, modern and spacious, and those on the upper floors have the best views of Vitoria\u2019s park, rooftops and bell towers. You\u2019re less than ten minutes\u2019 walk from the old town and the fine arts museum. Bonus: the excellent breakfast buffet is so extensive that you\u2019ll barely need lunch (B&B doubles from \u00a3102; nh-hotels.com).<\/p>\n

Getting around <\/p>\n

easyJet (easyjet.com), British Airways (britishairways.com) and Vueling (vueling.com) fly from the UK to Bilbao, the nearest international airport to Vitoria. Alternatively Brittany Ferries (brittany-ferries.co.uk) sails twice-weekly from Portsmouth to Bilbao. Buses run regularly on the hour-long route between Bilbao and Vitoria (\u00a312 return; autobuseslaunion.com).<\/p>\n

Visit responsibly <\/p>\n

The city centre is walkable but if you want to see the outskirts, you\u2019ll need to hire a bicycle or use the local tram network. Extend your stay and explore the Basque Country\u2019s lush Rioja Alavesa wine region an hour\u2019s drive south of Vitoria, home to some 400 wineries. Or head an hour\u2019s drive northwest to the mountain walking trails of the Sierra Salvada, a haven for bird lovers.<\/p>\n

Eddi Fiegel was a guest of the Spanish tourist office (<\/b>spain.info<\/b><\/a>), the Vitoria-Gasteiz tourist office (<\/b>vitoria-gasteiz.org<\/b><\/a>) and NH Canciller Ayala (<\/b>nh-hotels.com<\/b><\/a>)<\/b><\/p>\n

Do you have a favourite underrated Spanish city? Please let us know in the comments<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"San Sebastian may hog the headlines when it comes to prize-winning pintxos and f\u00eated fine dining, but head…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":248521,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5312],"tags":[2000,299,104],"class_list":{"0":"post-248520","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-spain","8":"tag-eu","9":"tag-europe","10":"tag-spain"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@uk\/114818744043528656","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248520","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=248520"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248520\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/248521"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=248520"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=248520"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=248520"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}