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If the famed French writer Victor Hugo had visited the Ch\u00e2teau de Chambord today, it\u2019s safe to say he would have been over-sharing it on Instagram.\u00a0<\/p>\n
After travelling there for the first time, he wrote: \u201cCan you imagine, dear Paul, that ever since I saw Chambord, I have been asking anyone and everyone: Have you seen Chambord?\u201d Standing before it myself, I know just how he felt.<\/p>\n
Looking up at this fairy-tale castle, crowned with its carnival of cream-and-grey turrets, I want to tell everyone about it too. Commissioned by Fran\u00e7ois I in 1519 and eventually completed in the 17th century, it is considered a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture<\/strong><\/a>. At its centre is a double-revolution staircase inspired by Leonardo da Vinci.<\/p>\n While Chambord is arguably the most famous, every one of the celebrated ch\u00e2teaux in the Loire Valley, of which more than a hundred can be visited, has its own individual charm. Then there are the renowned vineyards, the historic towns and the flower-filled villages. And, at the heart of it all, is the longest river in France.<\/p>\n A world-renowned destination<\/p>\n It\u2019s perhaps no surprise then that a vast swathe of the Loire Valley<\/strong><\/a> was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site<\/strong><\/a> in 2000. That makes this year its 25th anniversary. Spanning 174km from Sully-sur-Loire to Chalonnes-sur-Loire, it\u2019s one of the largest listed sites in the country.<\/p>\n This also means it\u2019s nigh-on impossible to see everything in the UNESCO area on a single trip, let alone the wider region, but what better excuse to plan a return visit? Especially as it all begins just an hour\u2019s train ride from Paris.<\/p>\n If you\u2019re coming from that direction, an ideal place to start is in Orl\u00e9ans, sometimes described as the gateway to the Loire Valley. Among the oldest cities in France, it was famously liberated by Joan of Arc from the English siege of 1429. Even today, her presence is everywhere \u2013 from the imposing statue in the main square and the street bearing her name to the stained-glass windows in the Gothic cathedral of Sainte-Croix.<\/p>\n This relaxed riverside city is also known for its attractive waterfront, Renaissance buildings and vibrant street art. Here, names such as M. Chat, Tag Lady and MifaMosa are uttered with almost the same reverence as Joan of Arc herself. I\u2019m also tempted by the various museums \u2013 and, in particular, the intriguing-sounding tours taking in the city\u2019s subterranean spaces.<\/p>\n Today, however, we are visiting the last surviving vinegar maker of Orl\u00e9ans. The city became famous for its vinegar in the Middle Ages when the slow-moving shipments on the Loire meant the wine would sometimes sour. Founded in 1797, Martin-Pouret continues the tradition to this day. As well as their boutique in the centre, which sells specialist vinegars alongside other products like mustard and sauces, they offer tours of their workshop just outside the city.<\/p>\n On the trail of ch\u00e2teaux<\/p>\n The next morning, we make the half-hour journey to one of the more unusual castles on our list, Ch\u00e2teau de Meung-sur-Loire. Known as \u2018the castle with two faces\u2019, while one side maintains its medieval exterior, the other has an 18th-century fa\u00e7ade in salmon pink. Outside, a dragon-themed trail features impressive animatronics, including a 14m-long basilisk, while a zen-like rose garden emanates calm.<\/p>\n Beyond the ch\u00e2teaux, another must in the Loire Valley is a vineyard visit. As one of France\u2019s leading wine regions, there\u2019s an impressive diversity \u2013 from Sancerre\u2019s flagship whites and Saumur\u2019s sparkling varieties to Chinon\u2019s highly regarded reds. Back at Chambord, they are now producing their own organic, hand-harvested wines, reviving an age-old tradition on the estate. During the \u2018obligatory\u2019 tasting, a sparkling ros\u00e9 called La Favorite lives up to its name.<\/p>\n That evening, keen to connect with the river itself, we take a boat trip on the Loire in a traditional wooden vessel. For this, we join an excursion with Moments de Loire, whose knowledgeable guide teaches us all about the river\u2019s ecosystem. Although we don\u2019t spot the resident beavers, we do spy brightly coloured dragonflies and a huge heron swooping past.<\/p>\n Where gardens meet fairy tales<\/p>\n For garden lovers, the nearby Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire shouldn\u2019t be missed. Alongside its remarkable ch\u00e2teau, once home to Catherine de\u2019 Medici, the estate hosts the International Garden Festival. This year\u2019s theme, \u2018Once upon a time, in the garden\u2019, has yielded some magical results.<\/p>\n It\u2019s also well worth making the detour south to see the Royal City of Loches. One of the finest fortified cities in the country, it has an ensemble of architecture that began around a thousand years ago. At its heart is the Royal Lodge, once favoured by Charles VII, and a medieval keep that\u2019s among the best preserved in Europe.<\/p>\n Not too far from here, the village<\/strong><\/a> of Montr\u00e9sor \u2013 officially one of France\u2019s \u2018most beautiful\u2019 \u2013 offers picturesque streets, a verdant valley and, yes, a lovely ch\u00e2teau. Also, look out for the statue of the \u2018Fallen Angel\u2019 by Constantino Corti. Its haunting beauty drew the admiration of Sir Mick Jagger, no less, who has a home in the region and can occasionally be spotted buying a baguette at a local bakery.\u00a0<\/p>\n On that note, if you\u2019re seeking a bite to eat in this corner of the Loire Valley, the eco-friendly restaurant of DorDinAire, in Nouans-les-Fontaines, is hard to beat. Run by the charming Val\u00e9rie and Thierry, they offer sensational seasonal dishes made with local produce.<\/p>\n The Da Vinci connection<\/p>\n For our final day, we visit one of the region\u2019s best-known landmarks: the Ch\u00e2teau Royal d\u2019Amboise. Overlooking the Loire, this \u2018palace on a promontory\u2019 was a favourite of the French kings. With its Renaissance splendour, panoramic views and aerial gardens (designated a \u2018Jardin Remarquable\u2019), I can see why.<\/p>\n This is also the final resting place for Leonardo da Vinci, whose tomb can be found in the exquisite little chapel of Saint-Hubert. In contrast to a certain painting at the Louvre, we are practically the only people there. At the nearby Ch\u00e2teau du Clos Luc\u00e9, where he spent his last days, his life is celebrated in one of the area\u2019s leading cultural attractions.<\/p>\n We then make a sojourn south again, back towards Loches, to squeeze in a visit to Ch\u00e9digny. The only village to have the status of \u2018Jardin Remarquable\u2019, it is home to one thousand rose bushes, among many other plants and flowers. The annual Festival des Roses comes highly recommended, as does lunch at Le Clos aux Roses with its wisteria-covered terrace.<\/p>\n Au revoir, not goodbye<\/p>\n