{"id":459505,"date":"2025-09-29T04:15:33","date_gmt":"2025-09-29T04:15:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/459505\/"},"modified":"2025-09-29T04:15:33","modified_gmt":"2025-09-29T04:15:33","slug":"live-a-gilded-life-on-a-trip-to-the-loire-valley-in-france-the-irish-times","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/459505\/","title":{"rendered":"live a gilded life on a trip to the Loire Valley in France \u2013 The Irish Times"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u201cSoda! Cherche la truffe.\u201d Serge Deszars is instructing his black and white pup in the delicate art of truffle hunting. We are on a hillside among acres of hornbeam and oak. Buzzards are circling in the clear blue sky, and Soda is excitedly snuffling around. \u201cYou only go with one dog,\u201d says Deszars. \u201cThey have to concentrate \u2013 and so do you. Switch off your phone, leave your problems at the gate and be optimistic.\u201d You also have to move fast, as no sooner has Soda nosed out a truffle than he is preparing to feast, and with the finest white alba truffles being worth in the region of \u20ac6,000 a kilo, that\u2019s a very costly dog treat. <\/p>\n

There are more than 100 different types of truffle and they grow well with oak, hornbeam, lime, cedar and hazelnut. Soda is a Lagotto Romagnolo, but \u201cany breed can truffle hunt. Not every owner can train them though,\u201d Deszars says with a note of pride. Six dogs barked us off as we headed to the fields. \u201cWe live in our dogs\u2019 house,\u201d laughs his wife, Adrienne, as she later brings us to an atmospheric cellar to taste truffles with wine. <\/p>\n

\u201cTruffle oils are made with artificial flavours \u2013 you can\u2019t infuse them, we\u2019ve tried. Even truffle salt, it has lost its taste in two weeks. People will add one per cent truffle, so that they can say it\u2019s truffle oil.\u201d I vow never to fall for that one again. (Arrange tours and tastings with barondelatruffe.com<\/a>.) <\/p>\n

We are on a trip along the Loire Valley, discovering ancient and romantic castles and truffling ourselves into the food culture and traditions of this storied part of France<\/a>. Rather like a souped-up version of Ireland\u2019s Blackwater Valley, the land is fertile, the river full of fish, and the banks peppered with fabulous mansions and charming little villages. One such is Br\u00e9h\u00e9mont, where La Cabane \u00e0 Matelot restaurant and delicatessen organises picnic trips on traditional fishing boats (les-pecheries-ligeriennes.fr<\/a>). We head out with Romain Gadais, who looks like a young Eric Cantona from the right angle, and eat pat\u00e9, rillettes (which local boy Balzac called \u201cpig jam\u201d), and poire tap\u00e9e \u2013 delicious dried local pears. Accompanied by local wines, and eaten off bread instead of plates, it is hard to think of a more relaxing way to spend an afternoon. <\/p>\n

\"SergeSerge Deszars with his dog Soda, truffle hunting in the Loire Valley. Photograph: Gemma Tipton \"WineWine and truffle tasting in the Loire Valley with Baron de la Truffe. Photograph: ADT Touraine <\/p>\n

At the Ch\u00e2teau d\u2019Azay-le-Rideau we contemplate a different kind of greatness. Gilles Berthelot had been treasurer to Louis XII, and was good enough at cooking the books to build himself this fairytale of a castle. Leonardo da Vinci had visited nearby, and Italianate influences are everywhere, but Berthelot never got to see it completed. War impoverished the king, who decided to take a look at the finances for himself. Berthelot\u2019s cousin was executed, and Berthelot himself fled to Metz, where he died shortly after in 1529. Today it is owned by the state (admission \u20ac16, azay-le-rideau.fr<\/a>).<\/p>\n

We drive through vineyards, past castles of soft gold stone, stopping to explore at picturesque spots. Back in 1998, the mayor of Ch\u00e9digny decided his village could do with a little perking up, and planted roses. Today the place is festooned and fragrant. Roads are closed to traffic and restaurants, such as Clos aux Roses (leclosauxroses.com<\/a>), serve lunch outdoors under flower-covered alcoves. Look out for the rose festival there each May.<\/p>\n

So much for visiting; what about making like a king \u2013 or rather, a roi \u2013 and sleeping in a chateau? Built in 1442, the Ch\u00e2teau du Rivau has been fully restored by its present owners, who also have a passion for art. Large sculptures feature in the gardens, and there are some intriguing \u2013 or alarming, depending on your disposition \u2013 displays inside. But … oh! the bedrooms. Imagine thick walls, turrets, huge and inviting beds and a satisfying sense of romantic ancientness, with all mod cons added for your comfort. <\/p>\n

\"ChâteauCh\u00e2teau du Rivau dates from 1442. Photograph: ADT Touraine <\/p>\n

Peacocks greet us in the grounds, fanning tails as we wander the herbaceous borders. But nature has its hidden hazards, and it turns out to be peacock mating season. This leads to amorous avian calls into the small hours. It seems a small price to pay. Visit the gardens for \u20ac13.50, dine like laid back royalty at the Secret Garden restaurant, and stay overnight from approx \u20ac290 per room (chateaudurivau.com<\/a>). <\/p>\n

\"Domaine_de_Cande,Bathroom in Ch\u00e2teau du Cand\u00e9, Loire Valley. Photograph: Stevens Fremont <\/p>\n

The Ch\u00e2teau du Cand\u00e9 has a sadder history. Here is where Wallis Simpson married Edward VIII in 1937, leading to his abdication. She was a divorc\u00e9e, which mattered back then. The couple had sent out hundreds of invitations, but only a handful turned up. Their hosts were Charles Bedaux and his wife Fern, who had modernised the castle in the 1920s, including such extravagances as indoor toilets and a telephone. Once the fifth wealthiest man in the United States, Bedaux was suspected of Nazi collaboration, charged with treason and died in prison by suicide. The castle and grounds are beautiful, entrance costs from \u20ac7.50, and the story is an intriguing reminder of the darkness that tends to linger around all disproportionally great wealth (domainecande.fr<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Alongside the chateaux, we stop for fabulous food and wine tastings in cellars, in courtyards and on terraces. From the delicate taste of the first thin shavings of early asparagus alongside sparkling white Chenin Blanc, overlooking the vineyards at Domaine de Grosbois (open May to September, domaine-grosbois.com<\/a>); to dipping into rillettes and local cheeses in the courtyard at the Ch\u00e2teau du Nitray (chateau-nitray.fr<\/a>), we put the lie to Rabelais\u2019 suggestion that \u201cappetite comes with eating, but thirst goes away with drinking\u201d. The 16th century French writer was born along the valley in Chinon.<\/p>\n

\"ComptoirComptoir Terre Exotique, Loire Valley. Photograph: ADT Touraine <\/p>\n

Miraculously finding room for another lunch, we stop at Le Comptoir de Terre Exotique, near the banks of the river in Rochecorbon. There, Didier Edon has traded his fine-dining Michelin star<\/a> to serve delicious tapas during the summer in a charmingly picturesque setting. Next door, I stock up at the huge spice emporium, Terre Exotique, in the vain hope of emulating his greatness (terreexotique.fr<\/a>). <\/p>\n

The Loire Valley also has a history of powerful women. Joan of Arc stopped in Chinon and Loches for meetings with King Charles VII, while the king\u2019s mistress Agn\u00e8s Sorel had a profound influence, including in rallying him to fight the English invaders. You could spend an age here soaking up the history, as well as the fascinating architecture and gardens.<\/p>\n

\"WineWine tasting at Domaine Bourillon Dorleans in Rochecorbon. Photograph: ADT Touraine <\/p>\n

At a morning wine tasting in the vast cave-cellars of Bourillon Dorleans in Rochecorbon (bourillon.com<\/a>), Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Bourillon shows us how the first sniff is different from the second, after a good swirl. \u201cOysters and wine are best after breakfast,\u201d he says with the air of a man who knows the value of expensive simplicity. Still, he came to Ireland and enjoyed Temple Bar on New Year\u2019s Eve, so he clearly also has his own ideas about craic. Someone asks him if he knows Dick and Angel from Channel 4\u2019s Escape to the Ch\u00e2teau<\/a>. \u201cWe have a million chateau,\u201d he says, dismissing the idea. Time to start exploring them now. <\/p>\n

Getting there<\/b><\/p>\n

Gemma Tipton was a guest of Tourisme de Touraine. Aer Lingus flies daily to Paris; from there, rent a car or take the TGV to Saint Pierre or Tours. There are networks of cycle paths throughout the area, and baggage can be sent ahead by car (tourainevaldeloire.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n

10 more king-size sleeps<\/b><\/p>\n

What makes a castle hotel? Turrets, battlements, jaw-dropping levels of luxury, or simply oodles of atmosphere? Here are 10 more stronghold sleepovers around the world.<\/p>\n

Ireland<\/b><\/p>\n

One thing we aren\u2019t short of in this country is castles. From renting Waterford\u2019s Lismore Castle in its entirety at approximately \u20ac16,000, sleeping 27 in 15 bedrooms, in the south (thehallandlismorecastle.com<\/a>); to Ballygally on the Causeway Coast in the north, from \u20ac115 (ballygallycastlehotel.com<\/a>), you could lord your way across the length and breadth of Ireland. As these are historic properties, check accessibility when booking. <\/p>\n

Ashford Castle, Co Mayo<\/b>\"AshfordAshford Castle, Co Mayo, is one of Ireland\u2019s most famous castle hotels <\/p>\n

The oldest part of Ashford Castle goes back to Norman times, but it was the first Lord Ardilaun of Guinness family fame who really lavished on the building work when he wanted the aristocracy to take him seriously. From John Wayne and Maureen O\u2019Hara, to Brad Pitt and Barbara Streisand (though not together), it is one of Ireland\u2019s most famous castle hotels. The Exclusive winter B&B package includes a welcome drink, spa, golf and on-site cinema access from \u20ac244 pps from November 2nd to March 31st (ashfordcastle.com<\/a>). <\/p>\n

Adare Manor, Co Limerick <\/b>\"TheThe Gallery at Adare Manor, Co Limerick <\/p>\n

When Windham Henry Quin, 2nd Earl of Dunraven, was laid up with gout in the 1830s, his wife suggested he remodel the house to relieve the boredom. Cue visions of the castles and cathedrals of Europe, and the extravaganza that is Adare Manor, now one of our finest five star hotels. It\u2019s hosting the Ryder Cup in 2027, but you can sneak in ahead of time for a mere \u20ac1,445 for two with candlelit dinner in the Michelin-starred Oak Room (adaremanor.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Anne\u2019s Grove, Co Cork<\/b>\"Anne'sAnne’s Grove, an Irish Landmark Trust property in Co Cork <\/p>\n

This miniature castle, with just one bedroom, is looked after by the Irish Landmark Trust. Oozing with atmosphere, self-catering stays are for a two-night minimum, and you can bring a dog. From \u20ac352 for two nights (irishlandmark.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Across the water<\/b>Roch Castle, Wales<\/b>\"RochRoch Castle, St David’s, Wales, originates from the 1100s <\/p>\n

Built in the 1100s with walls five feet thick, and renovated in 2012, Roch Castle sits at the \u201clandsker line\u201d dividing English- and Welsh-speaking Wales. One of its first inhabitants was Adam de Rupe, a Norman knight who might even have cast a covetous eye across the valleys to Ireland. There\u2019s also an intriguing collection of contemporary art. Stay in a tower room from \u00a3230 with breakfast (rochcastle.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Loughhouse Tower, Scotland<\/b>\"LoughhouseLoughhouse Tower, Scotland <\/p>\n

A Border Pele Tower, otherwise known as a Strong House, this three-bedroom spot was built in 1536 as a deterrent to the Border Reivers who liked to raid the local villages. There is a hot tub and lake, and stories of buried gold. Self-catering, minimum two-night stay, sleeps six, approximately \u00a3700 total (lochhousetower.co.uk<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Around the world<\/b>Keila-Joa Schloss Fall, Estonia<\/b>\"SchlossSchloss Fall, Estonia <\/p>\n

Built in 1833, and completely restored in 2010, Schloss Fall is about 30km outside Tallinn. With just 21 rooms, and an on-site museum exploring all its history, you\u2019re stepping into a different time and culture. You\u2019re also right on a rushing river and there are pristine beaches nearby. From \u20ac226 (schlossfall.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Gstaad Palace Hotel, Switzerland<\/b>\"GstaadGstaad Palace Hotel, Switzerland <\/p>\n

Five-star luxury in a fairytale setting, The Palace has hosted the likes of Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren, Richard Burton and Roger Moore. Marlene Dietrich performed there, and Michael Jackson wanted to buy the place. Open summer and winter only. Winter season starts December 15th; prices from \u00a31,070 (palace.ch<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Castello di Velona, Italy<\/b>\"CastelloCastello di Velona, Tuscany <\/p>\n

The oldest part dates from the 1100s, although most of it is Italian Renaissance, and all was restored in time to open as a luxury resort in 2003. Overlooking the Tuscan hills and with its own vineyard, there are thermal waters, a spa and pool, and fabulous food. Rates go into the \u20ac3,000s, but if you\u2019re flexible, you can find them from \u20ac396 (castellodivelona.it<\/a>). <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"\u201cSoda! Cherche la truffe.\u201d Serge Deszars is instructing his black and white pup in the delicate art of…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":459506,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5309],"tags":[2000,299,36,18753,56079],"class_list":{"0":"post-459505","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-france","8":"tag-eu","9":"tag-europe","10":"tag-france","11":"tag-magazine","12":"tag-michelin"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@uk\/115285651416699248","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/459505","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=459505"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/459505\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/459506"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=459505"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=459505"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=459505"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}