Courr\u00e8ges: Blinded by the Sun<\/p>\n
The best designer in fashion these days, at least when it comes to self-editing, is Nicolas Di Felice, whose latest show for Courr\u00e8ges was a model lesson in precision, punch and polish.<\/p>\n
![\"Courr\u00e8ges](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/9504.png\")
Courr\u00e8ges Spring\/Summer 2026 collection <\/p>\n
Once again, Di Felice created a bright white set \u2013 a perfect circle, with rings of circular benches inside a 19th-century wrought iron market. But then went into overdrive with uber-bright overhead lighting, worthy of an exam in the “Squid Game”. So bright, Courr\u00e8ges sent out natty pairs of all-black sunglasses with each invitation to provide protection. His opening looks were cold in icy blue, and his silhouettes tight, the models faces veiled to block out the sun. Before gradually loosening up and making most of the collection in natural fabrics, along with lean-and-mean leathers. So even if the line was neat and strict, the clothes looked comfortable. Ending with a series of sun shield oblong shapes, taken from cars, but used in futuristic dresses. Futurism, which Andr\u00e9 Courr\u00e8ges<\/a> invented in fashion, can often look hackneyed today. But Di Felice always manages to give it optimism and belief, which the future that it should ideally represent. Dries Van Noten: Tried and tested<\/p>\n One almost felt one was in Scandinavia at the latest show of Dries Van Noten. So similar were the prints to Verner Panton\u2019s designs of the 1970s. Or, indeed, to Marimekko<\/a> colors of the past decade.<\/p>\n See fashion show<\/a> Not that they didn\u2019t look easy on the eye, yet somehow very familiar. Otherwise, this was a polished performance by designer Julian Klausner. His latest women\u2019s collection for the house blended street style, rich fabrics and ladylike twists: tr\u00e8s Dries Van Noten in other words.
\u00a0
\u201cI was thinking of blinded by the sun in the sense what is true and what is fake. Too much information. It\u2019s all a bit overwhelming. That\u2019s where I started,\u201d said Nicolas, seconds before Kering<\/a> chairman Fran\u00e7ois-Henri Pinault<\/a>, whose empire includes Courr\u00e8ges, embraced him briefly with a huge smile.<\/p>\n
\u00a0
Playing on Andr\u00e9<\/a> Courr\u00e8ges’ DNA, especially his ’60s ideas, but courageously. Like taking Andr\u00e9\u2019s signature miniature belts and making several cocktails ingeniously out of scores of tiny belts.\u00a0
\u00a0
Flat shoes, glove-like sling-backs or transparent boots all had great zest, as did the soundtrack. Churning galactic funk co-composed by Nicolas and Erwan Sene, interspersed with a French voice telling you the temperature of the hour. Only<\/a> a French female accent can make that sounds sexy.
\u00a0
<\/p>\n![\"Courr\u00e8ges](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/759a.png\")
Courr\u00e8ges Spring\/Summer 2026 collection in Paris <\/p>\n
\u00a0
In the half-decade since he joined Courr\u00e8ges in 2020 from Louis Vuitton<\/a>, Di Felice has turned its show into one of the hottest half-dozen in fashion. Thousands of fans scream and chant his guests into each show.\u00a0\u00a0
\u00a0
Courr\u00e8ges may not be a giant house, but it is the hottest today within\u00a0the Kering\/Artemis luxury empire. And the biggest single reasons for that is Di Felice. And a management that is smart enough to let him do what he wants.
\u00a0<\/p>\n![\"Dries](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/c32d.jpg\")
Dries Van Noten – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – \u00a9Launchmetrics\/spotlight<\/p>\n
\u00a0
Staged inside a completely unadorned art space in the Palais de Tokyo<\/a>, except for 400 Louis XVI chairs and the guests. All focused on the clothes, led out by quite a few little jackets, which turned out to be inspired by surfer silhouettes and wetsuit shapes – though with added small pleats, ruffles and color. Made in light, airy colors \u2013 lime, lichen, pale gray or canary yellow \u2013 all had charm.
\u00a0
\u201cJoyful, optimistic\u2026 Like the ’60s was,\u201d argued Klausner \u2013 an ex-Maison Margiela<\/a> staffer – in a group chat post-show. Finishing shoes, sleeves, collars, T-shirts with strass and crystals, suggesting the shimmering light of the sea.
\u00a0
<\/p>\n
![\"Dries](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/6801.jpg\")
Dries Van Noten – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – \u00a9Launchmetrics\/spotlight<\/p>\n