{"id":466116,"date":"2025-10-01T15:45:30","date_gmt":"2025-10-01T15:45:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/466116\/"},"modified":"2025-10-01T15:45:30","modified_gmt":"2025-10-01T15:45:30","slug":"dior-jonathan-anderson-debuts-with-a-novel-new-look","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/466116\/","title":{"rendered":"\u200bDior: Jonathan Anderson debuts with a novel new look"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\n                                    <b>Published<\/b><br \/>\n                                    <\/p>\n<p>                                        October 1, 2025<\/p>\n<p class=\"article-content col-md-8 offset-md-1\">\n                                In a season of debuts, the biggest so far was at <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-dior\" title=\"Dior\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dior<\/a> on Wednesday, where Jonathan Anderson debuted in women\u2019s wear spectacularly with a novel new vision of the house\u2019s famed <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-new-look\" title=\"New Look\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">New Look<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"news-image\" style=\"width:100%;max-width:726px;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/7ba0.jpg\" alt=\"Dior \u2013 Women\u2019s Spring\/Summer 2026 runway show\" loading=\"lazy\"\/>Dior \u2013 Women\u2019s Spring\/Summer 2026 runway show &#8211; FashionNetwork.com<\/p>\n<p>Or new looks rather, as Anderson riffed on many of Monsieur Dior\u2019s earliest creations, and over a dozen Bar jackets, though very much on his own terms.<\/p>\n<p>The show space set\u2014created by film director Luca Guadagnino and Stefano Baisi, for whom Anderson dressed the lead actors in his tennis movie \u201cChallengers\u201d\u2014was centered around an inverted pyramid. Like previous Dior shows, the show tent was built on top of the largest fountain inside the Tuileries.<\/p>\n<p class=\"col-md-8 offset-md-1 article-content--texte\">Kicking off the action not with clothes, but with a punchy agit-prop video shot by one of Anderson\u2019s heroes, documentarist Adam Curtis, whose noted documentary \u201cHypernormalisation\u201d \u2018really changed my life. It\u2019s about how society got to where we are today,\u2019 explained Anderson in a pre-show morning preview.<\/p>\n<p>The video proved to be excellent\u2014a Zoo TV-worthy mash-up of Dior&#8217;s historic highlights: Monsieur Dior looking stern; <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-gianfranco-ferre\" title=\"Gianfranco Ferr\u00e9\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Gianfranco Ferr\u00e9<\/a> at a fitting; <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-john-galliano\" title=\"John Galliano\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">John Galliano<\/a> in a space suit; and a brilliant compendium of great shows with clips from classic movies where Dior dressed stars like Marlene Dietrich. It produced a huge roar of applause.<\/p>\n<p>Anderson then opened with a striking new dress, made of two lengths of silk tied into two large knots, sculpted over an interior structure\u2014setting the scene for a highly experimental show.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"news-image\" style=\"width:100%;max-width:726px;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/230a.jpg\" alt=\"Dior \u2013 Women\u2019s Spring\/Summer 2026 runway show\" loading=\"lazy\"\/>Dior \u2013 Women\u2019s Spring\/Summer 2026 runway show &#8211; FashionNetwork.com<\/p>\n<p>He showed multiple versions of the Bar jacket: elongated as in the original, though paired with his Dior menswear multi-pleat cargo shorts; or undulating and ruffled at the back so it stuck out; or cut large into a bulky coat. Think hybrid Bar jacket. Or what Jonathan termed \u201cexpanding the proposition into a different kind of universe.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The Northern Irish-born designer also played with lots of jersey or cashmere knits, combining some with bunches of fabric hydrangeas\u2014an abstract version of which had already been seen at the Toronto Film Festival on Anya Taylor-Joy, who sat front row. He also lifted a few ideas from his menswear debut with some superb fracks: Edwardian-style shirts and cargo shorts. His fabrics were often blends of classic Dior, like silk mohair, with JW\u2019s traditional cotton twill.<\/p>\n<p>In a heavy-duty front row, <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-lvmh\" title=\"LVMH\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">LVMH<\/a> patron and Dior owner <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-bernard-arnault\" title=\"Bernard Arnault\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bernard Arnault<\/a> sat chatting happily with Brigitte <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-macron\" title=\"Macron\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Macron<\/a> on his left and <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-charlize-theron\" title=\"Charlize Theron\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Charlize Theron<\/a> on his right. However, the biggest photo pop was Johnny Depp in a Dior gray suit and a gangster hat.<\/p>\n<p>There were so many designers present that it felt like Jonathan had opened a Montessori school for mature students: <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-rick-owens\" title=\"Rick Owens\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rick Owens<\/a>, <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-glenn-martens\" title=\"Glenn Martens\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Glenn Martens<\/a>, <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-stefano-pilati\" title=\"Stefano Pilati\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Stefano Pilati<\/a>, <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-chitose-abe\" title=\"Chitose Abe\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Chitose Abe<\/a>, Nicolas Di Felice, Christian <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-louboutin\" title=\"Louboutin\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Louboutin<\/a>, Camille Miceli, <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-alessandro-michele\" title=\"Alessandro Michele\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alessandro Michele<\/a>, <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-kris-van-assche\" title=\"Kris Van Assche\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Kris Van Assche<\/a>, and <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-simone\" title=\"Simone\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Simone<\/a> Bellotti.<\/p>\n<p>Like in his Dior menswear debut in June, he played a lot with the neckline, discovering an early \u201960s <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-saint-laurent\" title=\"Saint Laurent\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Saint Laurent<\/a> high lace collar\u2014a radical look and a collar that cascaded down the back to the floor.<\/p>\n<p>Considering the Curtis video, Anderson explained: \u201cIn a weird way\u2026 it was what my brain was like for the last two months. You know, Dior is big. The brand is big, and ultimately, the imagination of the brand in the public eye is big. There are films about Dior, there are documentaries about it, and there are books on it. And I think there is this weight. In a weird way, it is sometimes nearly like there is a fantasy in it that is cinematic. If you look at how Dior worked with Hitchcock and Marlene Dietrich, there\u2019s this like campness.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Lovers of fine hats will also adore this show\u2014taking the Bar hat and turning it on itself, or cutting others into tricorns like aircraft wings, or revamping nun\u2019s cornets. He also scored with a new triangular bag tied with a little knot that is named Cigale.<\/p>\n<p>Quite frankly, one key reason Anderson got the job at Dior was his remarkable success at <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-loewe\" title=\"Loewe\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Loewe<\/a>, LVMH\u2019s leading Spanish label, with the Puzzle bag\u2014the best-selling bag in <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-harrods\" title=\"Harrods\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Harrods<\/a> by all accounts. He will be expected to produce a hit leather bag at Dior, something the brand has not really delivered since launching the Lady D and Saddle some two decades ago.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"news-image\" style=\"width:100%;max-width:726px;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/a6a7.jpg\" alt=\"Dior \u2013 Women\u2019s Spring\/Summer 2026 runway show\" loading=\"lazy\"\/>Dior \u2013 Women\u2019s Spring\/Summer 2026 runway show &#8211; FashionNetwork.com<\/p>\n<p>In his pre-show preview for Italian and Irish editors, Anderson was disarmingly honest. Asked what his biggest challenge was on entering Dior, he responded: \u201cI am not a couture designer.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Pleading for patience to develop his vision before boards featuring all 75 looks, Anderson added: \u201cThere\u2019s this thing about dressing up, by the kind who revere fashion. So, I think over the next while we will play with this tension. And try to work out where Dior can go, because it cannot happen tomorrow or today. It\u2019s not going to happen today. And it\u2019s going to take time to kind of work out where the new type of tension within it is.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>That tension also exists in Curtis\u2019 most famous documentary \u201cHypernormalisation.\u201d A skillful montage of newsreel footage of recent history and conspiracy theories, it is certainly thought-provoking. It suggests that nothing ever changes politically anymore, as a cabal of politicians, rich corporate owners, and technological utopians now control the world via antidepressant drugs and social media\u2014constructing a \u201cfake world\u201d to control global citizens.<\/p>\n<p>A somewhat odd choice for a fashion movie, given it\u2019s an industry that is meant to be all about change. And given that Anderson\u2019s patron is Europe\u2019s richest man.<\/p>\n<p>All told, after a week in Milan where four debutant designers at major houses mainly played quite safe, it was impressive to witness how many risks Anderson was prepared to take at Dior. He does not lack guts. <a class=\"fnwAddLinks\" href=\"https:\/\/uk.fashionnetwork.com\/tags-was\" title=\"Was\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Was<\/a> it a huge hit? Perhaps not, but it is a fascinating work in progress.\n                            <\/p>\n<p>\n                                Copyright \u00a9 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.\n                            <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Published October 1, 2025 In a season of debuts, the biggest so far was at Dior on Wednesday,&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":466117,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,4],"tags":[155546,952,17111,748,24886,155548,16766,393,2584,155541,155545,4884,65897,145346,155542,38862,66020,15909,13279,43,5775,110602,1144,15910,155543,73869,712,155547,155544,16,15,1764,21024],"class_list":{"0":"post-466116","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-uk","8":"category-united-kingdom","9":"tag-alessandro-michele","10":"tag-beauty","11":"tag-bernard-arnault","12":"tag-britain","13":"tag-charlize-theron","14":"tag-chitose-abe","15":"tag-dior","16":"tag-england","17":"tag-fashion","18":"tag-gianfranco-ferre","19":"tag-glenn-martens","20":"tag-great-britain","21":"tag-harrods","22":"tag-john-galliano","23":"tag-kris-van-assche","24":"tag-loewe","25":"tag-louboutin","26":"tag-luxury","27":"tag-lvmh","28":"tag-macron","29":"tag-network","30":"tag-new-look","31":"tag-northern-ireland","32":"tag-professionals","33":"tag-rick-owens","34":"tag-saint-laurent","35":"tag-scotland","36":"tag-simone","37":"tag-stefano-pilati","38":"tag-uk","39":"tag-united-kingdom","40":"tag-wales","41":"tag-was"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@uk\/115299688443449985","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/466116","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=466116"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/466116\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/466117"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=466116"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=466116"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=466116"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}